MEW6627BAS Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

This is a Jenn-Air double oven. Turned off circuit breaker to the oven. Removed 7 screws that hold the top panel in place. Removed 3 cable/connectors from the clock module so panel can be removed from oven and placed on a table. Unscrew 4 hex head screws attaching clock module to front panel. Press on two tabs and remove circuit board from plastic frame. Replace with new board reversing dis-assembly sequence.

After examining the old board I discovered that the 470 microfarad aluminum electrolytic capacitor (in the corner) was badly deformed. I replaced this. Now I have a spare board. I believe that the failure (common in Jenn-Air ovens) starts with a transient on the power line (it did with mine). This damages the capacitor which progressively gets worse. This capacitor probably acts as a low pass filter on the power supply for the display. If any of you are into electronics, I would suggest wiring a zener diode across the capacitor to suppress transients. I wish the Jenn-Air engineers had put this in the design. It would have avoided a lot of costly repairs and saved them the bad reputation that they have as a result of this board failing over and over again.

On the front panel I removed 3 screws on top and 4 screws under the bottom. Pulled the panel down to expose the computer board, removed 4 hex head screws and disconnected 2 plugs and 1 ribbon connecter. I reversed the process and used the awl to locate the screw holes and finshed in 23 minutes and saved $ 89.00.

This repair is sooo easy! First I down loaded the service manual (free pdf) from Maytag as they make this appliance. They give all of the voltages for the J1 and J2 plugs. I checked those to be sure I was getting power to the board. I did not want to lay out close to $200 and then discover that the problem was elsewhere. All voltages on the J1 and J2 plugs were good. Next I ordered the clock and when it came in it may have taken me 5 minutes to replace the old board with the new one. Including time to go out to the garage and turn the power off and on. Also beware that the ribbon cable attaches to the clock with a compression type connector. The connector does not separate with the ribbon. Simply press on the two tabs on either side and then pull the ribbon from the connector. Reverse to reassemble.

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.

Pulled the breaker supplying power to the oven to OFF.
Removed four screws at the bottom of the control panel assembly above the top oven door (open the top oven door to access these screws). Lifted this control panel upwards to unhook it from a metal bracket. In my case, cabinet doors just above the control panel made this operation difficult.
Tilted the panel down. At this point, cables prevent complete removal of the control panel: The electronic clock assembly is attached with four screws inside this panel and connects to electrical equipment above the oven with two cables.
Unplugged these two cables. Their connectors must be unlatched by prying with a screw driver in the right place.
Once these cables were disconnected, the control panel could be removed from the oven area.
Disconnected the ribbon cable connecting the switches on the control panel to the clock assembly. That was the tricky part. Contrary to what I thought, this ribbon cable was not terminated by a connector but just snapped in the connector mounted on the clock assembly. After some fumbling, found that I had to depress both edges of the connector which allowed lifting up one part. Then the ribbon cable could be bent slightly to disengage two holes in the ribbon from nubs in the connector assembly and pull out the ribbon.
Removed old clock assembly by removing the four screws.
Installed the new assembly with the four screws.
Connected the two cables to the new clock assembly.
Reinstalled the control panel with the new clock assembly reconnecting the two cable connectors and by sliding the control panel down over the metal plate attached to the top of the oven.
Fastened the panel with the four screws.
Turned the circuit breaker back on.

Diagnosis is the important aspect. Ovens have plunger-type switches to tell the "brain" door is closed, both for the light AND to allow initiation of self cleaning. Finally discovered one of those switches was "scratchy" in operation and unreliable in closing the circuit. (Push the plungers in and out several times and observe the light.) If not 100% reliable, replace that switch (cheap and easy with a Phillips screwdriver.) Initial guess was a $major "brain"-electronics problem but it was merely a sticky switch. Strange since the unit is about a year and a half old and rarely used. Found the part easily with PartSelect, and it came via UPS quickly.

NOTE: I had a repair person try to fix the door problem and he only replaced the HINGES. You need to replace both the HINGES and the HINGE RECEPTACLES to fix the door problem.

INSTALLING the clock assembly:

First I went to the electrical breaker box and turned off the power to my double oven. Then I removed the screws that hold the oven to the wall and pulled the oven out about 5 inches. I removed the cover for the controls at the top of the oven - the clock assembly is attached to the cover - several connectors need to be unplugged to remove the cover. I put the cover on my counter and unscrewed the four screws (with nutdriver) that hold the clock in place. I unclipped the control cable (flat with embedded wires) and took out the old clock. I reversed these steps to put in the new clock. I then held the cover up to the oven and reconnected the connectors to the rest of the oven, I hooked the cover back in place.

Replacing the hinge receptacles:
I opened the oven doors and removed the hinge covers (just over the hinge itself that keep the door from falling off) and lifted the doors off of the oven. Next went to the side of the oven and removed all the lag screws that attach the hinge receptacles to the oven body (you may need to remove the trim around the oven in the process as they may be too hard to get out otherwise). I put each of the four new hinge receptacles back in place and screwed in all the screws I took out before. I put the oven doors back on and replaced the hinge covers.

The oven works perfectly!! Hurray!

Removed old part with a pair of pliers and plugged the new part into place.

Very simple and the self cleaning feature works again.

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

replaced the relay board after trying to understand the instructions. they were vague regarding when or if a jumper wire was required.

have had to work on this oven several times.touchpad, "clock, elements

It took us longer to do this repair than others report, but the repair was relatively easy. As with others, our clock display was getting very dim. In fact, when we turned on the oven to bake, the clock and temperature display would both completely dim. While we were not sure that the clock assembly was the part we needed, the comments from others led us to believe that replacing the clock assembly would likely fix the problem – which it did!

To be safe, we first turned off the power to the oven. Next, using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, we removed the three screws on the top of the control panel and the four screws on the bottom of the control panel. Now, the control panel is completely loose from the oven except for the two wired connectors running between the clock assembly and the oven. The two wired connectors take a little bit of care and effort to remove since a “lip” secures them. For the four-wire connector, we were able to remove the connector by wiggling and pulling on it. For the other connector, we needed to use a small flat head screw driver to bend back the lip on the clock assembly, and then still needed to wiggle and pull on the connector to get it loose. Be careful not to pull on the wires!

Note that a connector does not terminate the ribbon cable. To remove the ribbon cable, squeeze together the two tabs on each end of the connector on the clock assembly and pull up on the connector (i.e., pull away from the board). The part of the connector that you are squeezing will rise up slightly and the ribbon cable will rise up with it. (You might want to practice with the new clock assembly to see how this works as it is easier to unhook the connector when the ribbon cable is not connected.) The ribbon cable has two holes in it that fit over two pegs on the part of the connector that rises up. The ribbon cable should simply pull out once the connector is opened up.

Use a ¼” nut driver to remove the four hex head screws that attach the clock assembly to the control panel. The clock assembly is now free from the control panel, but we still needed to pull on the clock assembly to remove it since the fit was very tight.

Assembly is simply reversing the above steps. To fit the new clock assembly onto the control panel, we needed to use a pair of pliers to first slightly bend the metal tabs on the control panel outward, as the fit (as noted) was very tight. After fitting the clock assembly into place, tighten it down with the four hex head screws. If you have not already done so, release the ribbon cable assembly on the new clock assembly by squeezing the tabs and pulling up. Fit the two holes in the ribbon cable over the two pegs on the connector, and then simply push the connector piece down until it snaps into place (making sure that the ribbon cable stays on the two pegs). Take the control panel back to the oven and reconnect the other two wire connectors. To finish up, place the control panel back on the oven, replace the seven screws, and then turn the power back on.

If your experience is like ours, you will be amazed at how bright the new display is!

Removed the 3 screws from the top and 4 screws from the bottom of the touch pad. Pulled the touch pad away from the oven then disconnected the wiring harness and the strip from the old clock assembly.
Removed the 4 screws holding the assembly to the touch pad and pulled it away from the touch pad.
to assemble I just reversed the order.
Easy project.

Removed three screws on top and 4 on bottom to open the compartment of the display clock. Four more screws were removed to take the display clock itself. Three connecting wires were easily remomed (pay attention to the thin wide wire connection, you will need to pull the tabs from both end to free the wire connection). Put the new display light in place. Connected the wire and put the screws back.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I think everyone should be able to do it easily, as long as they know how to unscrew. (dont forget to shut off the power to the oven while doing this)
Somone had suggested that they can fix the faulty part. I will send this to them for $10 only (to cover shipping and handling). They can repair and sell it. My unit is functioning except for the infamous display failure.

After turning off the breaker, my husband removed the Oven Control Panel Cover. the Display assembly was connected with two multiple wire plugs. Once those were unplugged he plugged them into the new display assembly, reinstalled it, reinstalled the control panel. Turned hte breaker back on and HOORAY, after nearly a year with no oven display it still seem odd to beable to read the clock and oven temp!

My son removed the switch panel and unpluged
the switch. Then he replaced it with the new
switch fasten back the panel and turned the
power back on and everythiing worked fine.