Models > MERH752BAW > Instructions

MERH752BAW Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MERH752BAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MERH752BAW
61-75 of 187
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Broken levelling leg

  • Customer: Linda from Oneida NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.

Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal

  • Customer: Daniel from Katy TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

Indicator Lens melted and fell back into the control panel

  • Customer: Philip from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I took the back panel off, removed the old lens, installed the new lens. How easy to order from home, receive the part, do the repair and pay less than it costs to simply drive to the parts house. Cool....

Racks were dark and dirty

  • Customer: Geraldine from Germantown NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.

Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature

  • Customer: Trace from Ofallon MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

oven not heating to set temp. 100 degrees too cold

  • Customer: Robert from Funston GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

No temperature control

  • Customer: Max from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

BURNER ELEMENT REPLACED

  • Customer: GLENA from CINCINNATI OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
MY GRANDSON, AGE 15 DID THE REPLACEMENT. NOW, HOW EASY IS THAT!

ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle

  • Customer: sherri from elk horn IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"

  • Customer: William C. from Sealy TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door

  • Customer: Harlen from Spring Creek NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

Burned out stove top element

  • Customer: rick from colorado springs CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

light bulb went out in my oven

  • Customer: Janet from Ada MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

back R burner of ceramic top stove went out - died

  • Customer: gayleana from spokane WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

Broiler element broken, burned and arced about 4in from rear of oven

  • Customer: Noel from Pollock ID
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1) Unplugged the electrical cord and removed the oven door (only when easy); and, jockeyed the oven into better working area.
2) Removed about 9 screws holding rear sheetmetal backing plate to disconnect each of 2 electrical wires from the old element.
3) Removed 2 screws holding element to back of oven and 2 screws from small bracket supporting end of element to top of oven.
4) Replacement element was severely damaged. It was at the very bottom of a box 20 by 15 by 15.5 inches high with the large continuous bubble wrap stacked only on top. Each of the wire ends were sharply bent; one almost 180 deg. pointing in the opposite direction, and the other about 120 deg. The element itself was about 4-5 inches out of square. Using two large needlenose pliers I carefully bent each wire back to its proper place. Next I carefully exerted pressure on the element to gradually form it back to as near its correct shape as possible. (Only the inside of the shipping box showed the signs of possible damage.)
5) Installation- The element, from inside the oven, was placed back through the two holes in the rear of the oven and secured with 2 screws.
6) The bracket supporting the front of the element was slid onto the element and attached to the top of the oven.
7) Attached the 2 electrical oven wires to the 2 element wires, making sure there was good clearance to prevent any short circuit, plugged the oven cord in to 230volts, and checked it out with power to the broiler to give myself some confidence that the damaged wires would not quickly break. It seemed to work and I unplugged the oven.
8) Reinstalled the backing plate with the original screws, plugged oven back in, and moved the oven back to its place and replaced its door. It is working and my wife is cooking.
All Instructions for the MERH752BAW
61-75 of 187