MER5775RCS Maytag Range - Overview

Hi Carol, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your radiant element. It should be reading between 0 - 120 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Hi Carol, Thank you for your question. If the inner portion of the element is not heating the issue could be either the burner switch or the element itself. You will need to check the parts with a multi-meter to see which one is causing the issue. To test the burner switch, unplug your appliance before beginning. Locate your appliance’s infinite switch. You likely will need to remove the back panel in order to access it. Inspect the wires near the switch for any signs of burning, or overheated wires and terminals. If no issues are found, remove the switch in order to test it for continuity. Using a multi-meter on Rx1 mode, test for continuity by touching the L1 and H1 terminals with the probes. Once you have completed that test, touch the probes to the L2 & H2 terminals. If your test results indicate that there is no continuity between one or both sets of terminals, you need a replacement infinite switch. To test the surface burner element, ensure that you have disconnected the power source from your appliance before beginning. Lift the main top of your appliance in order to locate the surface burner element. Once you have found it, remove it in order to test it. You should also visually inspect it for any signs of bubbling, burning, wear, holes, or damage. To test for a shorted element, touch each of the terminals one at a time with one probe while holding the other probe to the outside surface of the element. If either terminal show continuity, it is defective. To test the entire element for continuity, place each of the probes on the terminals, one on each. The exact reading you should receive varies between models, refer to your owner’s manual to determine what yours should be, but if any element has a reading outside of 19 to 115 ohms, it is defective. If you do not receive the correct readings from the tests above or find damage on your element, you will need a replacement surface burner element. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hello Gerri, thank you for your question. Unplug the oven. Open up the oven door. The part is located in the upper right corner, so we recommend pulling out the upper rack for more room. Reach in and unscrew the light lens and light bulb. Both unscrew counterclockwise. Reach in and release the socket assembly. There are tabs typically in the 12-o-clock and 6-o-clock positions that will need to be bent into the socket assembly so it can release from the wall (use a screwdriver). There may be more locking tabs depending on the version of the part, so be watchful of that. With the tabs bent in, reach in and pull the assembly out. Use the Flathead screwdriver to unwire the socket. Take the lens and light bulb off of the new part to avoid damaging them. Reach in with your needle-nose pliers and grab the wires, reattach them to the new part and then push the light assembly in. Let the locking tabs snap in place and simply put in the bulb and lens cover, then replace the oven rack and plug the range back in. I hope this helps.