MER5770AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

I looked at the other repair stories on this site & realized it should be simple to do. I first switched off the power at the circuit breaker (range has its own switch). Then used a philips head screw driver to remove the 2 screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. Gently pulled the element out. Was able to disconnect the wire on the right side. But the other one would not budge. Thought I would have to get a repair guy out after all. Decided to try again again next day. Put on a pair of leather gloves to get a better grip on the wire (thought pliers might bend the connectors). Was able to wiggle it back & forth & it came loose. Then it was easy to hook up the new one, gently pushing the element connectors into the oven wires & put it back into the oven & replaced the 2 screws holding the element in place. Switched the circuit breaker back on. Turned on the oven and it works like new and no repair person visit!! Thanks for the info at this site.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

The door trim is held in place by five (5) screws. First I removed the two (2) side screws and then the three bottom screws. Be very careful because the trim holds the front glass panel in place. The repair can be made without removing the front door of the oven. Just remove the bottom drawer to get to the bottom three screws. Took approx. 15 to 20 minutes to complete. That's because I took the time to clean the inside of the glass panel. Really easy!

Slide stove out from wall and unplug. Remove two plastic side covers, (2 screws each outside, lossen Phillips screw on back panel and remove 1 screw each side under flange to release plastic trim). Remove two screws from lower lip in front of top. Pick up glass top rotating from front up first and pull forward to access and unplug burnner plug. Flip glass top over (carefull of broken glass falling out) Remove the two screws on each burner holding it to the top and snap out the "HOT" light assy. Transfer the four burners and all wiring as an assembly to the new top. Using a powered nut driver, screw the burners back into place on the new top and reinstall into stove. (New top did not have pre-threaded holes) While wife/girl friend cleans floor and stove before reassembly, enjoy a cold beer. Re-assemble in reverse order, have another beer.

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

Removed stove top. Removed old element paying attention to wiring connections. Installed new element. Redconnected wiring. Put stove top back in place. Tested. Ate dinner.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.