Models > MER5755QAQ > Instructions

MER5755QAQ Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MER5755QAQ parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MER5755QAQ
196-201 of 201
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The inner glass shattered when the oven was in the clean mode

  • Customer: Charles from Sulphur LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
First I took the door off and outside to dump the glass in the trash which I had some Kevlar gloves so not to get cut. Removed the three screws on the bottom trim piece and the two on the sides remove the outside face glass next remove the four screws that hold the next glass. This glass is in a frame there is bent tab on one corner unbend open frame and install inner glass close frame rebend tab and reinstall all the parts.

Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.

  • Customer: phillip from Farmington NM
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Surface element with limiter 6", 1200W was burned out

  • Customer: Tevfik from Naugatuck CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two screws, on both sides of the oven wall corner. Gently lift the front end of the glass top and pull towards me and disconnect the two electrical sockets. Carried the glass top assembly on the kitchen table and turned upside down. Removed the six screws. Removed the assembly from the glass top. Turn the top burners assembly over and disengaged the two clips of the burned out burner from the assembly plate. Transferred the two clips to the new burner on the exact locations like the old ones were. I have placed the new burner on the location and snapped the clips on the slots. Removed the connectors one piece at a time and connected to the new burner. Reversed the previous disassembly and all was done Works like a charm. Thank you all for assisting me in providing the necessary parts and video instructions. It was a lot cheaper than to buy a new range.

Oven would not heat on Back Cycle

  • Customer: Jeff from Thousand Oaks CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

Large element not heating. Open heating filament on element

  • Customer: Pedro from Jacksonville NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove power from appliance, verify power is off. loosen two side screws that hold cook top to counter top. Gently push appliance up from bottom, everything from now on is done gently !. every component is very fragile. hope you have enough room to move cook top to side, if not, have help to hold it for you. #2 screwdriver, remove screws on all sides, two front, 3 sides, 3 in back. Note placement of connected wires in the affected element. # 2 screwdriver remove one screw on bar holding set of elements, lift and loosen metal spring and remove element, ply wires off with pliers. ( I suggest you clean inside cook top if needed) Note place of springs(Numbers) and remove to place on new element. reverse order to complete.

Oven have F2 and F3 codes following cleaning cycle making oven inoperable

  • Customer: Timothy from Longmeadow MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!
All Instructions for the MER5755QAQ
196-201 of 201