Models > MER5730AAW > Instructions

MER5730AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for MER5730AAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MER5730AAW
61-75 of 286
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

I needed a broiler pan

  • Customer: Rhoda P. from Secaucus NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

The original element broke when dad spilled a liquid on it while still hot.

  • Customer: Ronald from Meridian TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the range, Took off the oven door removed two screws and disconnected the two electrical connections to the heating element. Made the two connections to the new element and replace the two holding screws. Replace the oven door and plugged in the power cord. Turned on the oven to test and was finished.

Burner not working

  • Customer: Warren C from Slidell LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

The inside glass was broken on oven door.

  • Customer: Jacob from Cotton MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I was pleased with how the job went.
It took longer than expected because I am not really a "do it yourselfer", but I studied the door and reread how others managed the repair several times.
There were more screws than mentioned here.
Someone said 10 screws but there were 12.
In the end I was pleased and surprised how simple the job was, but recommend others read carefully what others have written. I didn't but learned one must.

Rear 8 inch element was not working

  • Customer: PAUL from SCOTTSDALE AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws bottom front corners of range top - propped the top up - removed the wires from the element - removed the old element - installed the new element reattached the wiring reattached the hold down screws and bingo it worked!

First thing to do is turn the 220volt electrical circuit breaker to the unit off and the last thing is to turn the breaker back on!

The left rear element failed

  • Customer: William from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First , I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven.
Next, I removed the two screws at the front of the range top and slid the top out until I could disconnect the multi-plug connecting the wiring harness to the stove.
I then took the entire top out to a table and set it upside down. It was easy to unbolt and disconnect the lead to the element. One of the leads was burnt, so I had to replace it. I slid the new element into place, bolted it down in the same orientation as the old one and reconnected the leads.

I slid the entire top back into place on the range and re-installed the securing screws. Then I flipped on the circuit breaker and turned the element on.
Success! Perhaps I didn't really need to change the element since the burnt lead was the cause of failure. But its good to have a new part installed anyway.

inner glass busted

  • Customer: robert from orange CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

door seal contaminated by a boil-over, not flexible

  • Customer: Rob from Yakima WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
From reading other reviews i thought I would have to dis-assemble the door but when I saw the new part I realized I would not have to, simply pop the beveled clips w/pocket knife and pop in the new seal clips. the ends tucked very nicely, an 80+ yr. old would have no trouble if they had their wits.

Replace the oven Sensor

  • Customer: Michael from Exeter NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation

  • Customer: John from Ashland OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.

left rear burner not working

  • Customer: Brice from Spotsylvania VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.

Thank You

broken door hinge

  • Customer: James from Elmont NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
unplug unit remove rear panel screws lift up stove top remove top two screws remove panel remove two hinge screws remove replace hinge and follow in reverse order

INDICATROR LIGHT FOR 6" BURNER QUIT WORKING

  • Customer: NANCY from LITTLETON CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
OK this is a glasstop Jenn Air cce3531B, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since i had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. THANKS YOU PARTSELECT

ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle

  • Customer: sherri from elk horn IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

No temperature control

  • Customer: Max from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.
All Instructions for the MER5730AAW
61-75 of 286