Models > MDG5500AWW > Instructions

MDG5500AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDG5500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
76-90 of 780
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Dryer shut off before clothes were dry

  • Customer: Paul from Tamaqua PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The old sensor came out by removing 2 screws. I unplugged the two wires from the back of the sensor and plugged them into the new sensor. I reinstalled the new sensor using the same two screws. Of course, I unplugged the dryer first.

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

no heat, coil wasnt getting hot

  • Customer: matthew from Central Islip NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

dryer not heating up

  • Customer: Richard from New Windsor NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

I had a chirp coming from the unit when it was off.

  • Customer: David from apollo beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the part and it chirped..then stopped and it has been fine for several weeks and now it chirps again. It is like there is a cricket in there. I am hoping it stops again.

Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"

  • Customer: keith from saluda VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place

The dryer was not fully drying

  • Customer: Michael from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.

  • Customer: Roger from Westminster SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Code 8.8. on display, would not start

  • Customer: phyllis from riverside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back 4 screws to move top off. Found it difficult to remove top but finally did it. Unscrewed 4 screws holding down circuit board. Drew myself a cheat sheet of where cable where and then removed cables. Two of the smaller cables were stuck and hard to remove. Once everything unplugged took out board and noticed the fuses were brown. Put in new board, hooked in cables and screwed in the 4 screws. Put top on and screwed in 4 screws. Plugged dryer back in and it worked perfectly. Saved $100 doing it myself.

old latch broke

  • Customer: Jim from Germantown WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I inserted the clip

Dryer runs, but no heat

  • Customer: doug from dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws in hinges and on opposite side inside the door to remove the front panel.

You can put the door back on at this point to run the dryer with the burner exposed. At this point I could tell that the igniter was working and the gas valve would occasionally work so that burner would fire. The valve only seemed to work when everything was completely cooled down. I first replaced only the solenoid coils on top of the valve, this did not fix the problem. When I replaced the entire valve the problem was fixed.

Replacing the valve is easy.

1) Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2) Turn off gas supply cutoff valve
3) Remove door and front panel
4) Unplug wires from solenoid coil terminals. There are two coils on top of the valve body.
5) Remove gas line from valve body.
6) Remove two screws which secure the bracket holding the valve body and burner nozzle to the bottom of the dryer cabinet.
7) Remove two screws which secure the valve to the bracket.
8) Reverse the procedure for installation of new valve.

Gas dryer not heating

  • Customer: Joe from Madison WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Thank you very much for your prompt service. This was so cool... On Monday night my wife told me the dryer was not heating. I did a basic diagnosis, checked the internet for parts and lowest price and found your site. I ordered the part I thought I may need and 2 days later the part arrived and the dryer is working again.

Way to go, PartSelect!

Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle

  • Customer: Rob from Henderson NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!

baffle became loose and sensor stop working

  • Customer: Robert from Bulverde TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Repair is very simple, all I had to due was remove 4 screws on door and closing side door. Remove door and take off front panel. Then I spun baffle down to right side by motor removing 2 screws , replaced short baffle. the sensor wires are locate right there . Simple disconect of 2 spade wires , 2 srews inside and unit comes out. Please remember to disconnect power and door lifts up maybe 1/2 inch when disconnecting. The baffle worked fine the sensor fixed lights , but did not dry clothes to my satifaction. Good Luck

NO HEAT

  • Customer: NICHOLAS from PARMA OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I SUSPECTED A FAULTY IGNITER AND DISCONNECTED THE CABLE TO THE IGNITER AND MEASURED THE RESISTANCE OF THE IGNITER AND FOUND IT TO BE 70 OHMS THEN I CHECKED THE VOLTAGE AT THE SAME CABLE TOWARDS THE POWER SOURCE AND FOUND IT TO BE 25 VOLTS AC WHICH SHOULD BE 120 VOLTS AC. NEXT I CHECKED THE RADIANT FLAME SENSOR AND FOUND IT TO BE OPEN (IT SHOULD BE A CLOSED CIRCUIT WHEN COLD). I REMOVED THE FLAME SENSOR (WITH THE POWER OFF) USING A SMALL BOX WRENCH AND FOUND A BROKEN LEAD. REPLACING THE FLAME SENSOR SOLVED THE PROBLEM.
All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
76-90 of 780