Models > MDG5500AWW > Instructions

MDG5500AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDG5500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
76-90 of 780
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

No heat generated in dryer

  • Customer: Mario from Hugo MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My dryer stopped producing heat and everything else was working fine. I did some research on this site and others had the similar problem pointing to the ignitor going bad. I needed to determine which ignitor fit my dryer. What I learned is that some of the parts come with a series number and you need to know which one matches your serial number. My serial number started with 40 and I had a choice of buying the part for a series 10 or 60 series. In my case I needed to buy the 10 series since you either go with the same number as your serial number or lower, never higher. When the part came in I removed the dryer door by removing the 2 screws. I then removed the 2 screws on the opposite side of the door. Once the 4 screws were removed I was able to take the front cover off. The ignitor was on the right side and easy to get to. I unplugged the ignitor and used my socket set to remove the bolt. Once removed I vacuumed the lint in the dryer and installed the new ignitor carefully not touching the black area of the part. I put the front cover back on, put the door in place and put all 4 screws back in place. I started the dryer and it was fixed! This was an easy job to repair that saved me money.

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

no heat, coil wasnt getting hot

  • Customer: matthew from Central Islip NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

dryer not heating up

  • Customer: Richard from New Windsor NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

I had a chirp coming from the unit when it was off.

  • Customer: David from apollo beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the part and it chirped..then stopped and it has been fine for several weeks and now it chirps again. It is like there is a cricket in there. I am hoping it stops again.

Dryer continuously running, no timer advance, dampness indication stayed on "wet"

  • Customer: keith from saluda VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Took 3 screws out of the back of the back of the machine and tilted the control panel houseing forward. Slid the module free of it's track and unplugged the bundled wiring plug. Plugged new module, relpaced in is slot and put the control panel back in place

The dryer was not fully drying

  • Customer: Michael from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Metal burr ate away felt and tumbler edge

  • Customer: Jill from Cape Corral FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
My boyfriend took the dryer apart but was not available for the reassembly. I simply pulled up the detailed diagram that Part Select had in their database and was able to put it back together, although a little slower than anticipated.

Thank you for everything.

Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.

  • Customer: Roger from Westminster SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

old latch broke

  • Customer: Jim from Germantown WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I inserted the clip

Code 8.8. on display, would not start

  • Customer: phyllis from riverside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed back 4 screws to move top off. Found it difficult to remove top but finally did it. Unscrewed 4 screws holding down circuit board. Drew myself a cheat sheet of where cable where and then removed cables. Two of the smaller cables were stuck and hard to remove. Once everything unplugged took out board and noticed the fuses were brown. Put in new board, hooked in cables and screwed in the 4 screws. Put top on and screwed in 4 screws. Plugged dryer back in and it worked perfectly. Saved $100 doing it myself.

Dryer runs, but no heat

  • Customer: doug from dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws in hinges and on opposite side inside the door to remove the front panel.

You can put the door back on at this point to run the dryer with the burner exposed. At this point I could tell that the igniter was working and the gas valve would occasionally work so that burner would fire. The valve only seemed to work when everything was completely cooled down. I first replaced only the solenoid coils on top of the valve, this did not fix the problem. When I replaced the entire valve the problem was fixed.

Replacing the valve is easy.

1) Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2) Turn off gas supply cutoff valve
3) Remove door and front panel
4) Unplug wires from solenoid coil terminals. There are two coils on top of the valve body.
5) Remove gas line from valve body.
6) Remove two screws which secure the bracket holding the valve body and burner nozzle to the bottom of the dryer cabinet.
7) Remove two screws which secure the valve to the bracket.
8) Reverse the procedure for installation of new valve.

Gas dryer not heating

  • Customer: Joe from Madison WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Thank you very much for your prompt service. This was so cool... On Monday night my wife told me the dryer was not heating. I did a basic diagnosis, checked the internet for parts and lowest price and found your site. I ordered the part I thought I may need and 2 days later the part arrived and the dryer is working again.

Way to go, PartSelect!

Dryer would only heat at start up for one cycle

  • Customer: Rob from Henderson NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Ohmed coils and both had continuity so I changed radiant heat sensor. No bench test for Radiant Heat sensor. Same problem. Changed both coils and dryer works fine. Weak coils were my problem. I read thru the same issues in Parts Select forum and it said Radiant Heat sensor was problem 25% of the time. With coils having continuity and no ohm value specified for coils I made wrong choice but, I have spare parts and look for another 10 years of life in the dryer. Nice to have this forum to research appliance repair. Very helpful for parts location and installation. Dishwasher is next!
All Instructions for the MDG5500AWW
76-90 of 780