MDG5500AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

This repair can be made entirely from the front of the unit, so long as access to the front of the unit is good. Unplug the dryer. Remove the two front panel screws (bottom front of the panel). Hinge the front panel upwards along the top seam until the clips disengage. Unplug the door switch and remove the wires from the wire guide on the front panel. Set the front panel aside. Remove the wires from the wire guide on the front drum support. Remove the four 5/16" headed fasteners for the front drum support. Lift the front drum support upwards slightly and remove it front the unit. On a workbench use a 1/4" drill bit to drill the heads off the rivets that hold the drum slides (or glides) to the front drum support. Remove the slides and cork pads, or what's left of them. Thoroughly clean any residue from the mounting areas with solvent (brake clean, goof off, etc). Instal the new cork pads and plastic slides lining up and riveting one side, then the other. Now is also a good time to scrape any hard to get lint out of the exhaust well. Compressed air and a plastic scraper work well for this. Reinstall the front drum support, taking care to line up the holes. Place the door switch wires back in the wire guide on the front drum support. Reinstall the door switch wires in the wire guide on the front panel and plug them back into the switch. Reinstall the front panel and fasteners. Plug in and test run the dryer. Note: given the age of these machines it is a good idea to replace the drum rollers and washers at the same time as the drum slides. If one side of the system that keeps the drum running true has failed the other side has likely been damaged as a result. Having the parts on hand and at least inspecting them will save you the frustration of not fixing the issue and having to take the machine apart again. Also, noise related to the drum guidance system tends to start 10-20 minutes after the machine is started, and get worse as it runs. If the noise starts immediately the problem is more likely the belt. Again, given the age of the machine if you want to make sure you fix all possible weak points at once having a belt and tensioner on hand while doing the repairs is a good idea. I find you can fix all the age related failure issues at a cost much less than 1/2 that of a new machine of comprable quality.

I replaced the idler pulley and arm. I had broken down the dryer before to find the source of an annoying squeaking problem. At that time I lubricated the bearing with some hi-temp bearing grease; that worked for awhile but was not permanent. Needing to do it again, I ordered the replacement parts off the PartSelect site using the provided diagrams and parts. [Very nice.] I then checked the videos tagged to each of the parts to make sure I was doing everything right. Everything went back in perfectly. The site is very useful and very helpful. Thanks.

I followed the videos. I'm not mechanically inclined and had to watch one video three times AFTER I started but I took my time and actually enjoyed it. I thought the problem was the belt but now I believe it was a drum support roller that was failing causing the belt to slip due to the extra load the hard to turn roller caused. I am now a big fan of Part Select as they have really "done it right!"

I replaced adler pulley and belt. the bearing in pulley was gone . I replaced belt as preventer maintance. the job went real well. I was impresed with the time I received the parts.I put the order on Thursday night and received the parts saturday around noon. great job thanks George PS they even send vido how to replace parts.

I have a whirlpool gas dryer. My dryer all of a sudden would not heat up. I diagnosed the problem and discovered that it would light (using the peep hole in the front) when the dryer was cold, but once warm, the flame would go out. I bought a cheap multimeter and tested all the themostats on the back of the unit after removing the back panel. All the thermomstats checked out except the cycling thermostat which should no signal through one of the connections (purple wires). I ordered a new thermo and replaced the old one but it didn't fix the problem. Seems that there isn't a current between the purple connections.... Since the flame did light when the unit was cold I figured it wasn't the ignitor so it was either the flame sensor or the coils. I took the top and front panels off (alot easier than I thought; see videos) and checked the flame sensor with my multimeter. It was fine. Only thing left was the coils, so I ordered a set. IF YOU NEED COILS, SAVE YOURSELF MONEY AND ORDER THE PAIR. YOU GET BOTH COILS FOR < HALF THE PRICE IF ORDERING INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing the coils was rather easy. You will need to prop up the drum with something to keep it from impeding your screwdriver. A stubby philips really helped here. Also, since the gas valves are closed when there is no power, there is no need to disconnect the gas line and fuss about a gas leak (This really saved time). Once the two screws for the coil plate were out of the way, the coils simply slide off the valves and unplug easily. NOTE: Make sure you line up the one new coil with plate when you put it back together. It has a little tab that fits into the plate. All-in-all it took about 30-60 minutes to do. If I were to do it again it would probably take 15 minutes. Pretty easy job for a do-it-yourselfer with only basic tools.

I watched the vidio but after begining the repair,I realized that the drum roller could be replaced without removing the tumbling drum. This made the replacement go even faster & easier. Great website. Great vidio. I'll be back,given the age of this dryer.

I would like to say first of all that I was amaized and pleased at how simple the ordering of this part was and while looking at the parts diagram on you website I noticed the door swing was optional and could be easily changed and the dryer came from the factory with a latch installed on both sides of the door. In our laundry room the dryer sits to the left of the washer and the door to the dryer opened to the right which has always been a slight inconvenience. . . So instead of changing out the broken part, I took the door and hinge off with my cordless screwdriver (6-8 screws) and turned it around and remounted it on the opposite side. . . Simple! I never took the new part out of the ups envelope. Now I have a spare so I taped the new part in the envelope to the back of the dryer in case I ever need it and now we have more convenience with the door swinging the correct way. Sweet deal! Took less than an hour. Thank you for making this task simple. Chuck g.

open the back pannel and use multimeter to check the wirings and everything checks ok. open the bottom front panel of the dryer and turn the dryer on. the igniter works and the flame came out for seconds and dies off. the igniter keep coming on, but it seems that the gas was not coming out. i checked the gas line valve and it was open. i had a good idea it wasn't the wiring or the gas line, it must be the coil-valve,(safety coil), that letting the gas flow. i order the parts, it came sooner, which is good, and it took me less than 10 minutes to install, and i only use a philip screw driver. i thank you for sending me the right part in short period of time.

Followed the repair steps provided in the PartSelect video for the dryer! Piece-of-Cake! Trickiest step is reattaching the belt to the idler wheel (blind), but with analysis of how it goes before the drum is reinstalled, it can be done straightforwardly. Happy repairs!

Replace the igniter and dryer did light and after 3 minute went out. so I ordered to gas valve selenoid's and replaced those and everything it working properly

just replaced the igniter. No problems

This turned out to be easier than I thought. I opened the access door on the front of the dryer after unplugging the dryer and turning off the gas. I reached in just inside the door with a short-handled phillips head screwdriver and removed the two screws holding the two coils in place. The screws were pretty tight and a bit difficult to get loose but after serveral attempts they finally broke loose. Once I removed the plate that covered the two coils they just slipped right off, much easier than I thought. I removed the electrical connections then attached the wires to the new coils and slipped them back on their respective pins. I reattached the "cover", then plugged the dryer back in and turned the gas on and started it up. The flame fired right up, much stronger than before I replaced the coils and of course the flame stayed on. Problem solved. Repair was really pretty simple with the diagnosis being the biggest problem.

Remove access panel on front of machine located igniter, removed nut that held igniter in place, unplugged igniter, installed new igniter. Done. On line instructions said to remove 5/16 inch hex headed screw. It was reall a 1/4 inch hex head. No instructions spoke of front access panel. But it was a very easy fix. I will most definately use this site for future repairs. I am very pleased.

removed front of dryer, release belt tension, remove drum, remove old drum rollers, snap ring pliers a must, install new rollers and reassemble dryer.

The web site video was extremely helpful and parts suggestion based upon symptoms prove as well very helpful. Your web site is an excellent source for future repair issues