MDE216RED1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

1. I disconnected power cord
2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into
the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the
front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned
it back against a wall at the back of the machine.
3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the
inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the
wires from the door switch and then crimped the
metal clips holding the front panel to the main
body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel
toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside.
4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the
two screws holding the motor area access panel and
took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum
belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor
pulley.
5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the
ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to
take the belt off and work the drum out of the front
panel opening and put it aside.
6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil
assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One
needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil
spade connectors that are located at the ceramic
insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by
undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer.
7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes
necessary to remove the spade terminals from the
ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges
that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors
at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the
spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can
unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it
to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can
put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert
the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the
flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly
sequence for the assembly to complete the job.
Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the
future.)
Outcome

After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

Basically, i followed instructions on 1 video i seen, but was able to shorten repair by not removing drum, and was still able to access the thermal limiter switch to remove old one and install new one. Worked like a charm. Thanks Dan

followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair

The repair was a bit more simple that what I had read here earlier, to see if I could handle it or I would have to call someone. The biggest relief was that I didn't have to remove any of the connectors from the control panel. Only 4 total connectors were removed at the Heating Element itself. Here's the steps I performed: 1) Pop the top off by prying the lid to release the 2 front clips and lift the top all the way up (like the hood of a car). Rest this against a door or wall. 2) Remove the rear access panel (2 phillips screws) on the bottom left of the unit. Remove the tension from the dryer belt and take it off the pully. 3) Go back to the front and remove (4 allen heads) from the back of the dryer drum. The drum should now have some play. 4) remove a plastic retainer that stops the drum from being lifted out. Now you should be able to lift out the drum. There is a ball & socket fitting that needs to come apart. This can be done by sharply lifting straight up. This gives you access to the heating element and you should be able to see where the coil has burned, thus opening the circuit. 5) remove (4 phillips screws) from the back panel of the dryer. Remove two pairs of connectors that attach to the heating element. Now it's out and you can begin the swap of the new element and reverse this process to put it back together. If I had to do this again, it would take less approx 30 minutes.

First make sure dryer is unplugged.Next beware of sharp edges, this dryer has plenty. Remove 2 screws from kick panel,remove kick panel. Lay the kick panel aside, it makes a good "bowl" to hold screws.Remove 2 screws from top, located on back,remove top.Unplug the 2 sets of wiring connecting the front panel, the zip tie has to be unzipped, and if stripped should be replaced when reassembling. Remove 2 screws inside cabinet that hold front panel, near top. Remove 2 screws that hold front panel, in front and at bottom of front panel. Front panel is held in place by spring loaded clips, remove by pulling outward,a putty knife may be slid in to persuade it to pop off, be careful of scratching paint. There is a small panel on the back of the dryer held by 2 screws, remove to access the pulley that maintains tension on belt and release belt. Pay attention to the belt route through the tensioner to insure eaiser assembly later. Remove nylon drum retainer in front of cabinet at top, held in place by 1 screw. The drum may be lifted out and placed aside to access the heating unit(Don't place it on a hill, HaHa). The entire heating unit may be replaced, I opted to replace just the element, as it is much cheaper.
Use a flat screw driver to slip old female plugs off male element plugs, Use needle nose pliers to flatten tabs that hold male plugs of element in the ceramic housing. Remove old element, being careful not to damage any of the insulators. If the new element is not stretched out to about 46 inches "relaxed", carefully stretch it. Place one insulator slightly off-center on the element and place it into element housing. Plug in element into ceramic plug housing and bend the tabs to retain it. carefully begin putting in insulators, one at a time and reattaching element. Do not bend the element or cause any of the coils to touch each other. When all insulators are in place, plug in element and assemble dryer in reverse order. Mke sure belt is oriented with grooved side facing drum, and reach through the rear access panel to run belt through tensioner, make sure spring is attached with s-hook ends and belt is properly threaded. Reaasmble in reverse order, being careful to make sure drum bearing is seated properly, and drum "ring" of front panel is centered in drum. After dryer is assembled try it out on cool and work your way up to hot, and let it run a few minutes to get rid the new smell. Hope this will help.

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.

first i removed the top -second I removed the two screws hold the front on - thrid I unpluged the wiring to remove the front - fourth I removed old part and cleaned off old glue -fifth I applied new glue and new part - sixth I reasembled - worked good as new

Girls you can do it on your own!

The easiest way is taking the back off the dryer but if you can't do that just pop the top up and unscrew the front. Just make sure you remember how you take everything out and put it back in the same.

The most difficult part is trying to line up the holes for the heating element, and holding it there while screwing the element in place.

It's a breeze!

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

removing was easy just open lower rear LH panel . Ordering was easy ,shipping seemed like alot? to install the new belt pop top of dryer I used a screw driver to help. remove front panel 2 screws then it also has about six clips may have to have gloves on so you do not skin your hands like I did.... lots of sharp edges. pay attention to the clips, so if they come off they will not be lost. panel will tilt slightly fwd then raise up and set aside. now you can slip the belt over the drum. I kept all the slack at the top till it was in position. the groved rubber side goes against the drum and the motor pully. then extend the spring tensioner into position . I rotated the drum a few times by hand to make sure everything was in position. replace front. check it is lined up well before forceing clips in. check felt material is properly in place, as you rotate it into position. push down top . good to go. I ran it for awhile watching everything work before placing it back in service. you may want to clean it out some while it is apart I used an air compressor and shop vac simultaniously as that seemed to work best. Wanted my son to do it as I think he had it over loaded as to why it broke? It maybe the bearings are going but it felt solid ?? I should find out in a month or so shich was which! I did not see any easy way to get to grease it. The belt was easy though pretty sure my son could have handled it!

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

First i used pliers to remove old knob from the selecting mount. New knob slid right into place on the selecting mount. Whole job took less then a minute.