Models > MDE216RBW0 > Instructions

MDE216RBW0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDE216RBW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDE216RBW0
1-15 of 201
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Loud Squeaking

  • Customer: Frank from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 245 of 253 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

Thermal Limiter opened

  • Customer: Stephen from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 130 of 180 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Stephen from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 55 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

Dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Mark from Normalville PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 45 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
First..kudos to PartSelect for their fantastic support! Great work folks.

While greasing the bearing in the back of the drum, I found my heating coil was broken. Steps to replace:

1) Unplug the unit
2) Remove the top panel. Note, do not remove the center front screw that does not go into the door.
3) Remove front outer panel
4) Remove interior front panel
5) Remove front control panel 6 screws, pushing downward the panel and disconnecting connection to door.
6) Remove door by removing the screws on the top and pull door straight off. (I left the air duct attached to the door)
7) Remove the back access panel to the motor
8) Release the belt from the idler pulley and remove the belt.
9) I removed the three screws in the center of the drum as I found it difficult to remove the drum from the bearing. Remove the drum.
10) disconnect the coil terminals by first bending the tabs outward to allow you to be able to pull them off the block
11) remove the old coil
12) carefully stretch the new coil so that it measures 48 inches (no more)
13) Plug new coil into terminals and bend tabs to lock in place.
14) Divide heater coil in half and install coil onto center support on the opposite side from where it connects to the block/back wall of dryer
15) Install remaining coils onto supports.
16) reinstall all parts in reverse order.

Dryer still turned, but would not heat

  • Customer: CAROLE from MONTICELLO AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Had to remove tub to get to rear wall to make the repair and then put it back together in reverse order.

Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.

  • Customer: Chad from Glyndon MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Dryer wouldnt turn on

  • Customer: Emily from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I thought the problem was electrical so I inspected the power cord and noticed a burn on the ground connection. I disconnected the wires and inside the block was melted so I replaced it making sure the connection was tight between the power cord and block. It runs no problem. I think the dryer shorted because of a loose connection.

Dryer overheated and stopped working

  • Customer: Paul from Holiday FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

overheating, squeeking

  • Customer: Christine from Wheelersburg OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Unplung it, pop up the top and take it off, unplug the 2 plugs, take 2 screws out that hold the front door, take out the door. Get the belt loose from the back roller, pull out the entire drum. I changed all 3 thermostat, 2 in the back and 1 in the front, also change the rear bearing. Dryer works great now, no more squeeking and no more overheating it's like having a new dryer. I'm a woman and did it all by myself, save me a bunch of bucks!!!

No Heat From Dryer

  • Customer: C. William from Milford NY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Repair requires nearly complete dis-assembly of the cabinet.Starting with the steel panel directly below the control panel, remove 2 screws. Next, remove the screws on the lower corners of the control panel. The control panel can drop down now and be removed from the cabinet. The door frame must be removed next. Start by disconnecting the door interlock connector from the wiring harness and then removing the screws on the top of the cabinet that hold the frame. remove the frame. The dryer tub is next and is removed by extracting the three screws in the back of the tub that bolt it to the bearing. The tub is now free and is pulled out of the front of the cabinet. Now comes the challenging part. The actual bearing is a sphere that is held in place by a spring loaded socket. The bearing must be removed in order to access and heater assembly. The bearing is removed by pushing it with considerable force upward toward the top of the cabinet. This strong force is necessary in order to overcome the force of the springs that hold the ball bearing in in place. I found removal of this bearing perplexing because no mention is mentioned anywhere of the amount of upward force that it takes to remove it and I was afraid of breaking it by forcing it. Now the heater assembly can be easily removed and replaced. This whole process is challenging and time consuming. At the same time you can feel a degree of satisfaction when you are done.

Drum would not turn

  • Customer: jeana from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.

Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.

  • Customer: Alfred from Loveland CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

dryer wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Ivan from Guaynabo, Puerto Rico AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First: Remove front and top cover
Second: remove electrical cover assbly
Third: motor belt removed
Fourth: drum assbly and bearing shaft and bracket bearing replaced
Now I need urgently (already ordered) the thermostat and glide drum

The dryer drum wouldnt turn

  • Customer: Kara from Beckly WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together
All Instructions for the MDE216RBW0
1-15 of 201