MDE17PDAYW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

i was able to go on line with your company , find my dryer, order the part and had it the next day. fast , great , service

Pryed dryer top open and opened front door. . Unscrewed the 2 retaining screws. Pulled old switch from the wiring harness. Put new switch in place and replaced the retaining screws. Put new switch wire plug into the wiring harness. Before closing top, checked door switch function with dryer on. Dryer cut off when door open and when closed dryer started normally. . . Maint. Note instruction book should warn that letting door slam, which I did on occaision, broke the switch arm. Might save future problems.

It was simple once I figured out what to do:). I removed the 2 screws on the top of the dryer... they were a bit hard to find. Even with the other descriptions on this site. I was removing things I didn't need to. The 2 screws you need to remove are under the LINT COLLECTOR LID. Remove those 2 screws & lift the lid... it will be tight at first. the front of the lid has 2 "catches" in the corners.

The hardest part was getting the door switch assembly to "unplug". We pried it off -- eventually -- & then simply plugged in the new one.

Saved me LOTS of money & was worth the 30 minutes - 1 hour of work.

As I said previously, once you realize how to get the lid up & manage to pry off the plug, that's all there is to it -- easy!

Save yourself time & money & do it yourself!

ordered new lint screen, removed old screen, inserted new screen.

First unplug your dryer. Then, I removed the two screws on the lint trap leaving the lint trap in place--do not pull out the lint trap--only remove the two screws. Next, slide the top of the dryer slightly forward in order to release the top of the dryer. I did this with my hands. Once the top of the dryer is released, raise the top of the dryer and unplug the door switch assembly. Then, remove the two screws that hold the switch. These two screws were located on the front panel of my dryer and are visible when you open the dryer door. Remove the old switch and install the new switch by putting the two screws you previously took out from the old switch back in place and plug in the new switch. Lower the dryer top. Push the top back to lock in place. Line up the lint trap holes for the two screws that hold it in place and replace those screws. Plug your dryer back in and it should work properly. Very easy repair. We ordered our part one morning before noon, and it was here the next afternoon with regular shipping. GREAT SERVICE.

The door had always opened with the wrong swing and it wasn't til I needed to repair this that I noticed you could change the swing. I changed the swing of the door and then noticed that the clip was included on both sides so i did not need to repair the catch. I still have the part so when it breaks again, I can just pop it in.

The issue was the idler pulley. First I began opening up the front panel based on a youtube video but soon realized the model was slightly different and required a lot more items to remove. I saw the pulley in the back with nothing in the way so I put the front panel crap back on and removed the rear panel. There it was, very simple to remove and replace. I'm not looking forward to drum rollers though. Hopefully they're aren't as difficult as they appear.

I read a fix-it article from another contributor and followed those instructions to the T. Pull out lint trap, remove the two screws. Slide the top cover towards the front and prop it up with a mop handle.
Unscrew two screws in the door switch (with the door open) - Oh, to keep from killing yourself unplug the dryer just in case. Take pliers and pull the plug apart. It will be right in front of you in the right corner at the top. Plug new switch into that plug, reinstall the switch by reinstalling the two screws you removed. Snap top back into place and reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Oh, don't forget to clean the trap and slide it back into the unit. Now you have earned that beer.
Put tools away and proudly show your job off to the wife telling her how difficult it was.

This was my first dryer repair, and it was so easy. Simply pull out the lint trap and unscrew the two screws that are exposed. They attach the top deck of the dryer to the drum.

Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.

Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.

Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.

Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.

Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.

I removed the top cover and then the back cover, released the belt tensioner and removed the drive belt. Then slid the tub out of the unit and onto the back dack. Sanded the remnents of the old seal off. Wiped the tub lip with laquer thinner and applied the "fast" drying glue supplied with the kit. Installed the seal and re-assembled the unit...works fine

Found this site by googling, and it works! I searched lint filters and just ordered based on how it looked...LOL! Husband wasn't home, it looked pretty much like the one I had in my hand, so.... I ordered it. It is the perfect fit and seems to have a tighter gasket glued in all around the screen. Let's hope this one lasts longer than 6 months! Thank you Parts Select for being so fast!! Filter got here in less than 48 hrs.!

I purchased the dryer repair kit with the drum belt, wheels and idler pulley. I watched the instructional videos online and it seemed fairly straight forward. Breaking down the dryer and replacing the pulleys was easy enough. My problem began when I tried to feed the drum belt around the idler pulley. After finishing the job, the dryer would not turn and the sensor light stayed on. I thought something else was broken with the dryer and spent hours trouble shooting other problems that I was having. Finally I figured out that the drum belt was not installed correctly around the idler pulley. However, I could not get it properly installed from the front of the machine so I tried from the rear still with no avail. I finally had to fish the old belt out of the garbage can that I had thrown away earlier. I lined up the old belt with the new one in the kit and discovered that the new belt was much smaller, so I put the old one back on the drum. Here's the lesson I learned...make sure the belts are the same size before attempting to install. The old idler was responsible for the squeaking and that stopped but I am still using the same old drum belt. Hope it lasts.

I found that the dryer would not start turning by itself. Could manually help it start and it would run fine. Anyway, after a new set of rollers, belt, etc. found that the motor still would not start by itself. Ordered new motor and it was taken care of. You have to take the back off, remove the belt and remove the tumbler. After that, it is fairly easy. Two screws hold the motor down and then you can take the whole motor assembly out. Be careful removing the fan as it takes a 3/8 socket drive and it is plastic. Two clips hold the motor to the assembly. Needle nose pliers takes care of it. Replace and all should be good.

1. Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet. 2. Pull dryer out and disconnect the exhaust tube from the back. 3. Remove the screws at the top of the dryer back ( 3 ) and remove the top of the dryer. 4. The service instructions will be in a bracket on the top right. I didn't use them because I have done this job before. 5. Continue to remove the screws holding the back to the sides. There will be a lint collector attached to the back panel by three screws. This must be removed first, then the screws along the edge of the back panel. 6. Pull the back panel up and away from the sides and set aside. You will see two lower rollers attached to this panel. 7. Look under the drum and you will see a idler arm and roller in front of the electric motor and a little to the left. Notice that the drive belt is looped around the roller. Unloop the drive belt from idler and roller. 8. Lift the drum of the dryer up and out of the dryer. 9. Replace all the rollers (4) by removing the plastic "star" on the roller shaft. This can be done using a small screw driver. 10. Once the rollers are replaced, place the new drive belt, ribbed side facing the drum around the drum. Lift the drum up and into the dryer enclosure, making sure the rollers in the front of the drum are in the ridge groove. 11. Lift the back of the dryer in to the dryer enclosure, again making sure the rollers are in the rear groove. Turn the drum by hand to make sure the front seal is flush to the front of the dryer and that the front rollers are in the front groove. I2. Install drive belt around electric motor shaft ( ribbed side facing the shaft), lift idler arm up while running the non-ribbed side of the belt around the roller on the idler arm. 13. Install the back panel using the remaining screws. 14. Install the top of dryer by sliding it into the front panel and securing with the last three remaining screws, these 3 screws go on the top of the back panel. 15. Replace exhaust hose and replace dryer into space it formally occupied.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.