Models > MDE16PDAZW > Instructions

MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDE16PDAZW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDE16PDAZW
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dryer squeeking

  • Customer: gerald from park city MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 394 of 402 people found this instruction helpful
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.

dried too many shoes and broke the baffles

  • Customer: Teresa from Pace FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
removed door, removed screws to lift top panel, removed screws that held old baffles, replaced with new baffles, took off front panel and cleaned out excess lint while I was in there.

element was burn out

  • Customer: carl from moultire GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
took the front off by removing two screws took two screws out of element housing undon the wire and romeve element housing then romove the remaing parts that was needed on the new element then reinstall the element housing whith the new element in ti reinstall front of dryer and starting drying clothes project was complete

no heat in dryer

  • Customer: Eugene from McAdoo PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I removed front cover of dryer and found heating unit. I needed the detailed drawings from the PartSelect web site to help me find how to get the front cover off. It was easy after that changing out the sensors and reinstalling the heating unit.

Broken contact on high limit thermostat - dryer no start

  • Customer: Nova from Hudson OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)

The dryer was making a terrible noise that sounded like bearings squealing.

  • Customer: Edward from Pike Road AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one.

Rattling sound.

  • Customer: Laurence from Leesburg VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off circuit breaker. Removed two screws at base of front panel with stubby Phillips-head screwdriver. Swung panel up about 30-degrees, and removed panel, disconnecting red and yellow wire to door switch. Removed four sheet metal screws and took off large drum support bracket. Checked drum support rollers and shafts. They were fine. Reset circuit breaker and turned on dryer. Rattling noise still present.
Removed six small screws holding blower fan assembly. Shaft receiver on squirrel cage fan was worn completely round (it should fit onto a half-round shaft). Ordered new blower fan from PartSelect.com. Replaced tonight, and it works beautifully. This dryer is 29-years old. All it's ever needed in the 10-years I've owned it is a belt replacement and this repair. Long live the 1970s Maytags, and good parts suppliers like this one.

2 baffles fell off . the screws stipped out and drier only had one baffle left inside

  • Customer: randall from austintown OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
take 2 phillips screws out where door meets drier. remove door, set aside. take 2 phillips screws out on other side, set screws aside. remove front of drier by pulling on top left and right sides, front of drier will fall twards front of drier. when it touches the floor lift up on bottom. set aside for later. put new baffels in (you can see where the old ones went) put screws in from bottom 5/16nutdriver. tighten. put drier front back on . start at bottom , snap top back in on both sides. put two screws back on left side, put door back on and replace 2 screws ( door will not go on wrong) test and your done...

Rear Felt seal came out, squealing sound when drying

  • Customer: Matthew from Lombard IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off gas and unplugged dryer
1) Removed bottom front panel
2) lifted top panel up like a car hood
3) Removed door springs
4) disconnected electrial connections to door unit, removed door unit
5) removed drum, scraped old felt from drum
6) glued new felt with a very strong glue (nanoglue or gorilla glue, same thing), let it dry overnight
7) secured back inside panel, replaced drum and put dryer back together.

baffle in dryer broke

  • Customer: Gerald from Dunwoody GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
easy repair. Another person had placed a youtube video on it on how to open up the dryer to get to the baffle. Baffle purchased only came with baffle. Had to go to Ace hardware to buy screws. This travel time was 90 percent of the repair. Disappointed the package didn't come with all the parts, like screws. Screws cost me another 2.50 as had to buy 2 separate sets to see which ones were needed. Next time if you are not going to ship something that is assembled, e.g. needs screws, with screws. Let me know ahead of time.

Dryer was making awful noise during use

  • Customer: Pam from Aberdeen WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!

baffle broke off and needed to be replaced

  • Customer: Fred from Blairstown NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
we replaced the baffle by removing the broken baffle. There were two screws holding it in place. Door and front panel of dryer had to be removed to accomplish this task. Quite an easy repair/replacement. Thank you for all your help PartSelect.com.

Dryer stopped working

  • Customer: Mary Ann from East China Township MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
From previous experience I suspected the thermal fuse. Turned off the power and removed the front of the dryer by removing the two philips head screws in the door hinge and the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. The front came off easily since all that holds it in place besides the 4 screws are two spring clips. The thermal fuse is located on the side of the chamber enclosing the heating element. I removed the wires connected to the thermal fuse and temporarily joined them together with a spade type connector in order to determine if the thermal fuse was the problem. Turned the power back on and tried the dryer......it ran normally. Turned the power back off and removed the thermal fuse by taking out th two screws with a 1/4" nutdriver.
Ordered a replacement thermal fuse, installed it (with power turned off) and put everything back together. Dryer functioned normally after the thermal fuse had been replaced.
The thermal fuse can be removed and reinstalled using a 1/4" nutdriver. The wires are connected with push on spade type terminals.
Note: The swing damper on the dryer vent (the hooded cover where it exhausts to the outdoors) was jammed in the closed position with an accumulation of lint, which caused the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. If you experience a blown thermal fuse, always look for the cause or you'll blow the replacement within minutes of running the fryer again.

The short baffle came loose and was rattling around in the dryer.

  • Customer: Melissa from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy, based on the comments from this website. I used a 6-in-1 screwdriver, and that was the only tool. I removed the two screws holding the hinges, removed the door, then the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. This allowed the front panel to come off. I spun the dryer tumbler until the baffle that was loose was at approximately 5 o'clock. I unscrewed the remaining screw and found the missing screw in the bottom of the dryer. I put those two screws into the new baffle, and popped the front back in place. I reinstalled the four screws (two opposite the hinge, then the two that hold the hinges)...all done in about 20 minutes (including vacuuming the lint out from that lower area).

no heat from the dryer

  • Customer: James from blanchester OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I had to find out just how the dryer came apart. Most of the time, the back comes off but with this particular Maytag, it is the front that has to be removed. Once the four screws from either side are removed, the front pops off and the canister that holds the heating element is right there on the bottom. Cleaning away years of lint was fun but the heating canister was removed quickly using two screws and removing four wires that attached to the unit. Once the screws were removed (top back and bottom front) and the wires removed, the replacement unit slid right in without any problems. The regulator on the old unit had to be transferred to the new unit before installation. I closed up the front, put the four screws back in and snapped the front closed and the dryer worked perfectly.
All Instructions for the MDE16PDAZW
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