MDE14PDADW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The replacement part just snapped into place. (The old part had fallen out) It took less than 30 seconds to do the repair.

This was fun! Kill the power!
Remove door, remove from panel, remove front drum support, remove drum and belt, remove blower cover, remove blower wheel, remove electrical connector from motor, take two clips off motor mount to remove motor. Put it all back in with new parts. 200 bucks and back in business. Go for it.
Bob

Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!

Followed your video; replaced felt seal on front of drum, (torn in two or three places), and replaced both front guide kits,which were ground to the metal, causing the black dust, ( metal shavings). Thanks for the help, Buck. The drum support rollers were OK.

The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.

popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Removed door and front and drum. Removed fan assembly. Be careful when working fan off of motor shaft. Unhooked wiring from motor. Removed clips. Replaced motor. Reverse procedure to put dryer back together. Now works like new. Very, very, happy. Part came in 2 days using standard shipping. Way better than buying a new dryer.

Took the door off the hinges. Removed remaining 6 screws and clips. removed the inner door. Made sure the door seal was correctly installed in the inner door. Installed the inner door and seal. Put the clips and screws back in. attached door to the hinges and was back in business.

Took off the front, took thd drum off, removed old belt, placed on new belt ptu everything back together.

I removed the 2 screws that hold the door and removed the door. I then removed all the screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel. Then I was able to lift (on hinges) the top panel. I then removed the screws that hold the front drum housing, then removed the drum and belt. At that point you have plenty of room to access the idler pulley. I removed the Idler pulley spring. Then I removed the the screw holding the Idler arm and shaft. Reinstalled in reverse order.

Insure the double pole breaker in the breaker box is functioning properly.

All you need for a Maytag is a snub nose Philips screw driver. The screws on the front panel are at the bottom angled down, so a regular length Phillip's won't work. Just unscrew the 2 screws, then lift the panel up and out. Careful not to pull out too far, there are 2 wires attached to the switch. The replacement switch is NOT an exact copy of the old one. My Maytag is over 30 years old and it only had 2 prongs on the switch. The new one has 3. Don't let that throw you. It is the same size. Just attach, 1 wire to the bronze connector & the other to the silver. Push the switch into the door opening, re-attach the door. Total time 20 minutes. Saved well over $100 in a service call. Anyone with an IQ above freezing can do it.

I looked at this website and found the symptoms, noisy, and no heat or not enough heat. I ordered the recommended parts. They were the drum support roller kit, idler pulley wheel and bearing, high limit thermostat, and lastly the front glide kit. I had anticipated having to use all of these parts. Upon following the instructions in the videos (couldn't ask for better instructions) I disassembled the dryer to see how bad everything was before replacing the parts. The left drum support roller spun easily, but had a little roughness and slight noise, the right one spun easily but not like I thought a new one would have spun, the idler pulley was stiff and very noisy. The thermostats all seemed to be in good shape (had continuity). I cleaned the bearings and shafts of all of the rollers with alcohol, paper towels and cotton swabs. The bearings and shafts all looked like new, so I lubed them with a slight amount of high temperature grease and reassembled the rollers. They moved smoothly and quietly. The fan was quite full of lint, even cleaning the filter after every load does not stop all of the lint. It has been in use probably over 10 years. After everything was back together, it runs like a well oiled sewing machine and has been drying well. I did return the parts unopened. This would not have been so successful without the videos. Thanks to all of you.

At first I thought I could just replace the pulley, but on closer inspection I found that the pulley had become seized on the shaft. I ended up removing the entire bracket (which I should have purchased also) and cutting the shaft off. I manufactured a new shaft from a bolt of the appropriate size and tack welded it to the bracket. It took a little more time than I anticipated. My advice to anyone doing this would be to spend a little extra money and buy the entire bracket and pulley. That would make this about a 15 minute job.

first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much