MDE10PDEGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

From the noise level and info on this site, I assumed I needed to replace the drum rollers. I ordered two, along with the Roller Shaft, and a replacement belt (I assumed that would eventually need to be replaced so why not now).
No need for me to repeat the excellent reviews/instructions already on this site. Basically, it was an easy job that took about 2 hours, mostly because I took the time to clean every nook and cranny I could find.
Once I assembled it back up, the shriek was gone but the rumble noise was still there. I now realize that the blower wheel must have a worn out d-hole that mates with the motor shaft. So, I will have to order that part, get it installed and I am confident that I will have a "new" machine once that is in place.

Disassembled per instructions. Additional time used to clean inside unit.. Its much easier to install belt on motor pulley and tension pulley ( Roller) from rear access panel. Also ensures proper belt alignment on all items.

Every two to three years, the blower wheel gets chewed out in the center where it attaches to the motor shaft. I have learned the sound of it starting to rattle so I know to order a new blower before the air stops moving altogether. Replacing it is very easy if you have tiny sockets or nut drivers and a pair of snap ring pliers.

When working on this dryer, be aware that the heater wires are always "hot", even when the dryer is not running. You are only likely to touch one at a time so the worst you will feel is 120 volts. The shock probably won't hurt you but you may cut yourself jerking your arm out of the dryer. Best to unplug the dryer or open the circuit breaker before sticking your arm in there!

Installation of drum support kit was difficult because my snap ring pliers would not fit in the snap ring holes. Had to use pliers and screw driver to get them off and to put them back on. That took much patience and time. Installation of front guides was a bit difficult because the rivets were loose and turned when trying to drill them out. Also they were bigger and I needed a larger drill bit than the 1/8 told about in the video. Used drill, screw driver and pliers to get the rivets out. Also took more time and patience to do this. Belt did not need replacement but felt it a good idea to do it as long as I was in there. Belt installation was easy because my dryer has a rear view opening and I could use it to thread the belt. Tried it from the front as shown in the video just to see if I could and found it impossible. Could not even get my hands to hold the belt. Also vacuumed out 20 years of lint and dust that was inside the dryer. The videos were excellent in showing what to do and how to do it. Not sure how well I would have done without them.

Replaced all the parts per the very good video provided on the website.
I recommend watching the video very closely several times. BE SURE THE BELT IS NOT IN THE DRUM'S GROOVE. The video mentions this very very briefly; I caught it on my third viewing. If your belt is not the correct location, it may still turn the drum for you - and eat the belt up in about an hour.

I removed the cover from the control panel, took out the schematic, removed the rear cover by the motor, followed the schematic, powered the heater by taking the blue hot leg wire off the right side of the switch and touching it to the black lead for the heater on the left side, and I could hear the heater power on. Since bypassing the motor start switch powered the heater, I ordered the part. When it came, I installed it in about 5 minutes and the dryer worked perfectly.

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

If your dryer is making a rumbling noise, change the blower wheel. It's plastic and the heating and cooling cycles causes the keyway in the plastic to give out and the wheel just spins causing the noise and the slower dry time. The other parts I replaced see below. Like many other repairs, remove screws below dryer door. Mark all wires and locations for re-assembly. Next remove front tumbler/lint screen assembly (4 sheet metal screws 2/L 2/R. Work belt off back of tumbler and remove. Use flathead screw driver to release tabs that hold felts on both front and back tumble supports. Make sure you know rotation of tumbler and install new felts so the overlap goes in direction of spin. Use a drum stick or 3/8 ratchet extension, something dull and flat to press tabs back down on felts. A screwdriver could slip off and tear cloth. Next drill out heads of the rivets on the glides and remove teflon glide and cork backer. Make sure all rivet material is removed front and back. Install new cork and glide. Rivet one side back in, then the other. Repeat on 2nd glide. Re-assemble dryer. Super smooth, super quiet.

My part was not amazing. What was genuinely cool: I ordered it one day and it was here the next, took out the old and put in the new. Thanks for getting it here so quickly.

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

Removed back panel of machine which exposed badly worn idler pulley. Have had problem before on another dryer so I was sure what problem was before I started. Removed snap washer and cloth washer and then bad pulley.(It was very worn and wobbly).Cleaned shaft with small piece of emery paper and put two drops of oil on shaft and replaced old pulley with new one.Put back washer and snap washer.Drive belt had slipped away from its proper position so I had to remove the front panel of the dryer to place the belt back and realign it on the drum and around the new pulley and the motor drive shaft. Not really that difficult.....Machine now runs like it's brand new.....

Removed front panel and tumbler, replaced roller axle,
wheel, and front glides. Anybody can do this.

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

I had my oldest son who was home from college help me. We removed the front face of the dryer and put the unit on it's back. We removed the door switch and the blower unit. I didn't get a good look at how the belt was routed when we removed the drum but was able to figure it out when we put it back together. Not only was the belt frayed and dry rotted, the blower squirrel cage was free-wheeling on the shaft. I found a tab of metal I was able to insert in the flat of the shaft between the cage bushing and the shaft and I put the squeeze ring and snap ring back in place. We also discovered the source of much of the rattling noise we had grown accustomed to was actually change pieces trapped under the drum ribs. We removed them and put the ribs back in place and we installed the new belt and figured out how the belt routed around the shaft and tensioning pulley. We cleaned all the trapped lint out of the dryer and reassembled the unit. It now works like new. Thanks!

My wife had to help me due to a recent back surgery that I had.

1. Disconnet power. Then if you have room, slide dryer away from wall far enough to tilt it slightly back. We had to do this to remove the two lower front panle philips head scres due to my screwdriver length. If you have a stubby, then you don't need to do this. Remove by pulling out on bottom until the two clips at top disengage from dryer top panel.
2. We removed the four 1/4" head sheet metal screws that hold the front tub support panel (with lint screen). Be carefull of wiring. One moisture sensor wire has to be removed from front cover on lower right side near bottom of tub opening. The remaing wires on left side are long enough to leave them attached and "swing" front panel to your left and in my case, lay it back uprite against the washer front.
3. We slid the tub forward enough to lay old belt down so I could see how it was routed around drive. I wanted to verify paperwork that came with new belt. We then set entire tub out of dryer. You might want to take it to another room if you laundry room is cramped.
4. We removed the nut from back of each support roller shaft, I believe it was 3/8 hex. Then reveresed this procedure to install the new roller and shaft. It was easier to assembly rollers before installing as a unit.
5. I removed the old belt and confirmed its length to new belt. I then installed the new belt over drive sheave and tensioner.
6. We then installed the tub and worked belt around it while keeping it on the drive sheave and tensioner pulley. Had to kind of stick my head into tub to start belt unto it.
7. We checked tub front and rear felt seals and I would recomment\d changing these if your dryer is older than 10 years, we did not have then so kept old ones.
8. We replaced the front tub support and installed the four sheet metal screws.
9. We replaced the front cover and installed the two lower philips head screws.
10. Re-connected power and tested operation.