MDE10MNAGW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I pulled the dryer out so I could get to the back of it. I removed the cover at the lower right side on the back to access the pulley and idler. I removed the front of the dryer by taking out the two screws at the bottom and pulling out the bottom until the top clips popped out. There were two wires for the door safety switch, I marked on the inside by the switch with a sharpee which color went on each side. Removed wires. Removed four screws to take off the bracket that holds the tumbler in place, that's to be able to put on the new belt. On my machine there is a groove in the tumbler that the belt should not go into, if it does it will make the belt appear too big and the belt will rub on things it shouldn't. Put the belt in place around the tumbler, then reinstall the bracket that supports the front of the tumbler, it's a good idea to rotate the tumbler to make sure it turns like it should. With the smooth side of the belt against the tumbler and the belt riding about an inch or so toward the front of the machine from the groove wrap the belt around the pulleys. The last two points seemed wrong by instinct, putting the smooth side of the belt against the tumbler and not putting the belt in the groove, but that's what worked for my dryer. Re-attach the door safety switch wires, then put the front back on. I did mine two weeks ago so I might have forgot a few minor points.

Watched your video, then did the repair it couldn't have been easier. They say a pictures worth a thousand words the video made it simple to do thanks for the fast shipping of the belt also. It took an hour because i spent 30 min cleaning out all of the old lent in the 21 year old dryer.

The videos detailing the replacement processes were right on the money. The only difference my dryer had was the location of the phillips screws holding the front panel. I did not need the stubby #2 philips like the example since my front cover retaining screws were not at an upward angle near the floor level. I used a 5/16" nut driver for the assembly that holds the front of the tub and the one screw on the bottom of the fan shroud, a 1/4" nut driver for the fan shroud screws, and a pair of 6" channel-locks for the wheel clamp. I had to buy an inexpensive snap ring pliers set since I did not own a pair. It was $14.00 at ACE Hardware for one with 4 sets of prongs for different sized retaining rings. Even with the purchase of the pliers - I easily saved myself over $100.00 doing this easy repair myself. The parts fit exactly - no difficulty with them at all. The new fan had a D-shaped hole that fit the motor shaft. The old one spun freely on the shaft, so it wobbled and made noise, and ran at a speed considerably less than the shaft speed, which accounts for the noise and the fact that the clothes did not completely dry.

If your dryer does not run at all consider buying the thermal fuse with the tube. It is cheap and will save time if just the heater tube does not solve the problem.

1) Unplugged dryer.

2) Removed two screws on the front of the dryer panel under the door, swung bottom out and up to remove.

3) Removed one sheet metal screw in from of heater tube holding to base of unit.

4) Removed second sheet metal screw with nut driver that holds back of heater tube in to vent twoard back of dryer.

5) Carfully disconnected wires from heating element. and turn tube to gain access to screws on left and right sides of tube. Remove sub assemblies on sides of tube for thermal fuse. Just one screw for each, and they will lift off removeing tab from slot.

6) Vacumed out all oul lint.

7) Installed new heating tube by following above steps in revers order.

Tip, watch as you connect wires back on to tube. Make sure that they connect in the same place, and connect them in an order that will not interfear with re-assembly. I always take a picture with my cell phone before I disconnect anything, or draw a picture lableing wires and colors to positions. This job is very easy, and saves hundreds of dollars!!!

The key was finding a youtube video of the appropriate model. Once I did, it was a piece of cake. Didn't even have to move the dryer, since the front panel simply lifted out, as did the drum. The only negative was that I endured hearing the squealing roller for three months longer than I needed to.

After watching the video on this web-site it was very easy. I took the time while I had the drum out to vacuum out everything inside the cabinet and sprayed the sealing felts with silicone spray before re-assembling the unit. Wallah!! No 'mo' squeaks. Tommy

Neither the washer or the dryer of the stacked unit would start. The website suggested that one of the causes could be the thermostat. I ordered a replacement that arrived quickly. Swapping the part only took minutes, and it started just fine.

removed front of dryer removed 4 mount screws replaced belt replaced dryer front

I basically just followed the excellent instructions in the PartSelect video; I highly recommend it. Be careful of other sites, I had one site that told me to take off the top of the dryer somehow, which would have been MUCH harder. Be sure to lay down a drop cloth, it is dirty inside these things.

Followed the video to the tee really easy. But I have been in the dryer before teflon rub guides and belt.Take the front off, then the drum bracket four screws, open the blower wheel cover, remove the locking clip the wheel just slid off then, put it back together everything lined up just fine. then say to your wife listen to the dryer you can't hear! Works great.

removed front cover and rear access panel took belt off tensioner removed front drum support removed drum replaced two rollers by removing snap rings and put it back together in reverse... The maytag repair man is still lonely

The online video was the extremely helpful in aiding me in the repair. Thank you so much for posting it. Couldn't have done it without it.

Installing the Front Glide Kits was straight forward if you watch the video. The guides resolved a part of my problem, but I discovered the Blower Wheel was cracked and out of round. replaced it and poof its fixed!

Simply dropped it in. I have never had a simpler installation! Service was a+!

noticed that male half was in good working order, so I just snapped in the new female half; without any tools. easy repair!