MDB9601AWQ Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

You have to pull the dishwasher out from underneath the counter and set it on its side. Before removing, I used a shop vac to remove any standing water from inside the dishwasher. Once I pulled out the dishwasher, I then tilted the dishwasher forward to let remaining water fall on the floor, again, using the wet vac for clean up. After it is on its side, I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt that holds the drain valve on. Then I used a socket wrench to loosen the clamp for the drain hose and removed the hose. You then need to turn the entire drain valve 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise to remove the old drain valve. Once it is off, remove the bracket from the old drain and attach it to the new drain valve using a phillips screwdriver. Before I reassambled the drain valve, I used my wet vac to remove any debree from where the drain valve connects to the dishwasher. Reverse the prior steps to install new drain valve and install dishwasher back under the counter. I tested the unit before installing the dishwasher back under the counter to insure it fixed the problem. The hardest part about doing this, was actually taking the dishwasher out from under the counter, very easy process in general. One thing I couldn't figure out about my original problem of the water not completely draining out, is why would the drain valve start draining the water then after 20 seconds it would stop? I couldn't find the answer, so I assumed the drain valve is like a 2 stage system and took a chance on replacing the drain valve; it worked.

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!

First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

First I read all the reports for not cleaning properly already listed on this site. I had to replace the docking station with flappers. When I removed the station I lost the flappers down the water delivery tube just like Jon said I would in his repair post so I removed the water distribution assembly fished out the old flappers and snapped in the new.
But then I figured I might as well check out the accumulator while I was in the tub anyway - I had read that you need Torx screwdriver bit, which I had, undid the screws, pulled out the accumulator screen which was about 80% clogged, discovered I need a new chopper blade and my impeller is disintegrating, put it back together and lost ten minutes looking for the three screws I had incorrectly put in too soon, and now it is cleaning a packed full load like it was supposed to do.
**I love this site - I went to the virtual repairman and it listed every problem I had with this appliance in the order they happened (door latch broke years ago). - I think I am going to look up stuff that I own so I will know ahead what could go wrong with them.

And absolutely NO DUCT TAPE was used in this repair.

After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.
You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.
The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!

The original brackets that hold the water distribution manifold to the back and top of the tub came off the "X-shaped" plastic posts on the tub walls. That caused the upper wash arm to sag down into the travel of the upper dish rack and was broken off when the rack was pushed in.
I bought 2 new brackets and a new wash arm. The new brackets had a smaller aperature than the originals and fit tightly onto the plastic posts, holding the manifold firmly in its proper location. Replacement of the brackets and the new wash arm took less than ten minutes and required no tools!

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

Removed the basketsThen removed the bottom spray arm with nut driver. Removed the cover and spray tower assembly. removed screw holding broken impeller. Replaced and reversed process. Really easy. As an aside. This dishwasher has been a major disappointment. lots of things not holding up. Didn't go cheap when buying it. Nice to find a site with good prices for parts