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Models > MDB9150AWS > Instructions

MDB9150AWS Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB9150AWS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB9150AWS
46-60 of 584
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Replace lower dish rack as orignal was corroded and the holders were rotted

  • Customer: Geoffrey from Shrewsbury, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Rusted racks

  • Customer: Paul from Anaheim, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.

Handle Ends Broken

  • Customer: Glen from Bala Cynwyd, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed the torx screws around the metal liner
2. Pulled back the metal liner being careful not to disturb the connected wires
3. Pushed scissors into the latch actuator (part that pushes into the the catch on the dishwasher cabinet) until it sprung into position to simulate closure - you can't get the handle on easily without doing this.
4. Placed the end tab of one side of the handle into the slot on the side of the latch actuator.
5. Applied pressure on the other side until it snapped into place.
6. Pulled on the handle to release the catch.
7. Replaced the torx screws.
8. Works perfectly!! (until it breaks again)

Tub was mysteriously slowly filling with water.

  • Customer: Mark from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

Lots of noise and wouldn't pump

  • Customer: Joe from Franklin, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

Upper carriage wheels broke.

  • Customer: Steve from Boston, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.

To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.

The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.

Closer tab on the door broken.

  • Customer: Paul from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Dishes were not getting totally clean.

  • Customer: Dennis from Liberty, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Tub wheel wouldn't stay on

  • Customer: Fleet from Olympia, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Took off old, snapped in new.

Our 16 year old dishwasher's top rack lost most of the coated metal 'prongs' that separated/supported items on the upper rack.

  • Customer: Cheryl from White Lake, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.

I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.

Replaced Racks, Lower Rack Has Design Flaw

  • Customer: GREG from Castle Rock, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced upper and lower racks. The new lower rack has a design flaw: it has 3 wheels on each side, but should have 4 wheels on each side. When you pull out the bottom rack, the last set of wheels drop down into the open space where the door hinges to the cabinet, causing the dishes to bounce and shake around. Then when you push rack in, you have to lift it back up onto the tracks made for the wheels to roll on. You can't pull the bottom rack out far enough to access the back of the rack very well.

The Spray Diverter Assembly Came Off And Fell On The Heating Element And Melted.

  • Customer: JEFFREY from WAVELAND, MS
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.

My racks were rusting, and a few tines had fallen off

  • Customer: Stacey from Robbinsdale, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I did the top - getting the ends off the track is simple, flip the ends "open" like a book on each side, and remove the caps. Pull out the rack, replace with the new one and replace the caps. Bottom rack was easier once I figured out how to remove the spray tower. Grab it firmly and twist. Place it in the new rack, and roll it into the DW. I'm a fairly handy woman, and this was quite easy.

Racks were rusting, pieces braking off and rubber coating was peeling.

  • Customer: Lora from Plover, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
Was extremely easy to remove that existing rackings(upper and lower), install the new racks and snap in the new spray tower. It now looks like we have a new dishwasher. We are hoping that it will last another 10+ years.
We will recommend your site to friends.

I accientally busted the old rinse arm, while I was trying to put in the filterguard with bottom spray arm jet

  • Customer: mary from sturgis, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.
All Instructions for the MDB9150AWS
46-60 of 584