MDB9150AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!

First I did the top - getting the ends off the track is simple, flip the ends "open" like a book on each side, and remove the caps. Pull out the rack, replace with the new one and replace the caps. Bottom rack was easier once I figured out how to remove the spray tower. Grab it firmly and twist. Place it in the new rack, and roll it into the DW. I'm a fairly handy woman, and this was quite easy.

With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.

I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.

Old rack assembly was rolled out , the plastic water disperser was twisted off of the old rack and placed on the new rack assembly. The new rack was rolled into place. Project complete.

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

First I installed the spray diverter,then I installed the discharge housing nut and tightened it down. Last I snapped on the spray diverter cap.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

All that was broken on the old detergent dispenser was the door but the door can not be ordered without buying the whole detergent/rinse aid assembly. When I got the new item I just removed the old door and replaced it with the new door that I had taken off the new one. I still have the new detergent/rinse aid assembly that I can keep if I need to change it in the future.

Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.

Replacement parts were an exact fit. This always a concern when part numbers have been replaced with a new part number. Removed torx screws from door. Separated door shell, unplugged two micro switches, removed old latch and handle, replaced with new. Previous on line advice was helpful, but repair easy and quick.

The only tricky part was fixed by reading another post on this website -- removing the plastic endcaps on the steel sliding brackets. This is a necessary step before replacing the wheels because the bracket needs to slide between two fully installed wheels.

To remove the endcaps, you must push the flat end of the endcap (the side of the endcap facing you) sideways toward from the dish carriage, with your thumb. Once that slides sideways, the entire endcap can be easily pulled from the bracket. Not much force is required for either step in removing the endcap. If you look closely at the endcap, there is an arrow to show the direction in which to slide the flat portion.

The wheel can be bumped onto the wheel axle by placing a wooden block against the outside of the wheel and then applying a gentle tap of a hammer to the block. Use a flashlight to make sure the wheel hub rests against the washer tub sidewall.

1. Removed the torx screws around the metal liner
2. Pulled back the metal liner being careful not to disturb the connected wires
3. Pushed scissors into the latch actuator (part that pushes into the the catch on the dishwasher cabinet) until it sprung into position to simulate closure - you can't get the handle on easily without doing this.
4. Placed the end tab of one side of the handle into the slot on the side of the latch actuator.
5. Applied pressure on the other side until it snapped into place.
6. Pulled on the handle to release the catch.
7. Replaced the torx screws.
8. Works perfectly!! (until it breaks again)

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help