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MDB8600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB8600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
76-90 of 816
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Door latch on the dishwasher broke.

  • Customer: Christopher from Porter IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

Low water pressure during wash

  • Customer: John from Thornton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed filter cover and filter and found the plastic chopper sleeve was stripped out. Followed instructions that came with the seal kit to replace it.

Plastic handle latch was cracked and door was very difficult to open/close

  • Customer: Paul from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First turned off power to dishwasher. Then, I removed all the screws on the dishwasher door. Removed old plastic door latch from wire assembly piece. Pressed on latches for square small wire boxes connected to wire assembly piece to be able to handle wire assembly plastic piece without attachment to dishwasher. Tried to snap door handle to wire assembly plastic piece, but didn't seem to fit - was too tight. Checked for discussion online and found that it required heavy pressure to snap in place. Used pliers to clamp down on outer plastic on wire assembly piece to squeeze fit door latch plastic hooks in place. This was difficult, but with heavy pressure finally managed to snap in outer hooks. Then with difficulty snapped in inner hooks. Was afraid of breaking new plastic piece, but all worked out well. Door has never opened and closed so well!!

knob fell off, and burnt in the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Marcia from Plaistow NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Simple. Unscrew the old one, replace with the new one.
The best part- Online said it would take 5-7 days to recieve thru the mail. It arrived the very next day!!!!

Broken Door Latch

  • Customer: John from Aurora OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First, I recommend asking PartSelect for help to insure you have correct part. They tell me the pictures on the web site are provided by Maytag and are copywrited so they can't change them. The pictures are incorrect and misleading. However, it's a known problem, so the PartSelect people will steer you in the right direction. Bottom line in my case, I needed the lower cost part that included more pieces (counter-intuitive so I was glad I called). Got the right part the first time in about 3 days regular shipping.

As far as install, you need a "Torx" screwdriver (screw heads have a star-like pattern) to remove the screws along the inside of the door. From there, the old latch is accessible and easy to remove. As others have mentioned, the hardest part is removing the wire harnesses on either side of the latch. They have a slide on compression clip holding them on, and I think that time and ambient moisture must cause them to get stuck very tightly. I originally thought there was something locking them on, but in the end, I was able to pull and wiggle them loose with by applying slight inward pressure on the prongs with long nose pliers. You have to be careful not to damage the parts when attempting to pull them apart. It's nice that the part I ordered includes new switches, so if I caused any damge removing the old ones, it didn't matter. Just take extra care on the side with the wires and plastic connectors, since those parts aren't included and are more involved to replace if you damage them.

Overall, a very simple repair. The repair stories from others on the site were very helpful and gave me confidence when I ran into the small snag mentioned, since others had the same problem. Hopefully the additional detail I've provided on that issue will help fill any gaps.

The door would just flop down when you opened it

  • Customer: David from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

Broken Dishwasher Door Latch - Assembly Replacement

  • Customer: Gail from Sharpsburg GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Being a fairly technical female, I decided after Internet research to replace this part by myself. It could not have been easier - even after reading several Internet horror stories. I believe the major difference being I replaced the entire assembly, not simply the latch.

You need a hex-head allen wrench to remove the inside cover of the dishwasher door, and some sort of pliers to remove the old unit. I used vice grips since I am a wimpy girl - they worked nicely (this took the longest time).

Step by Step:

Turn off the power to your dishwasher.

Remove the door screws and carefully lift it to access the door latch assembly.

Remove the old door latch by unplugging the black and white electrical mechanism. Pay close attention to which side the black and white connections are removed from for reconnection reasons. This is where I had to use vice grips. It took a bit to "unplug" the old latch assembly.

Once the old latch assembly is removed, position the new latch assembly and reconnect the electrical source.

Carefully reposition the door and replace the screws.

Turn on the power.

Run a short cycle (I used rinse) to make sure that the unit was replaced correctly.

Can it be any easier than that??

Axle broken on upper rack roller

  • Customer: George from Carlisle PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Had to purchase complete rack adjuster for forty dollars instead of roller assembly or, even better, an axle for five dollars because Maytag wants to gouge us. Anyway, removed rack from washer, removed screws holding plastic cover on adjuster, removed adjuster from rack, replaced with new part and re-assembled. Be sure the spring steel part is in cover. FYI part was correct and shipped quickly. Thanks.

We were not getting water in the dishwasher.

  • Customer: Kathleen from Medina OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions given on line. Unscrewed the panel on the lower front of the dishwasher. Located the water valve by the hoses going into it. Turned off the water and electricity. Took off hoses--one came off like a garden hose. The other was clamped on. Disconnected wires. Unscrewed the valve. Replaced with new one by screwing it in. Put hoses back on. Attached wires as before. Screwed on panel, and did a load of dishes. Worked like new. Thanks! Saved us from having to buy a new washer and/or paying a repairman to come in. Good thing because the pump on our well went a couple days later and had to buy a new one.

Original basket broke

  • Customer: Sharon from Gainesville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The bottom broke out of the original basket just after one year of use. The manual showed a different basket than what came with the dishwasher, so I ordered it instead. I like the split/fit even though it is just a little smaller than the original. The sides lean out instead of straight up and down like the old broken one, so more silverware fits in it. It is handy to take apart and position one at the front and the other at the side of the rack so there is more room for larger pots and pans.

Leaks out and below the front door

  • Customer: John Todd from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Latch Assembly Mechanism Broken

  • Customer: JOHN from GAINESVILLE FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:

1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];

2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.

3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];

3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.

4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.

5) Close the door back.

6) Stare.

constant crud on glasses

  • Customer: Janice from Parker CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Accumulator was as easy as just removing srews and replacing the part. The Float I broke by accident and was more complicated to replace required 2 people to manage parts.
Dishes finally coming out clean!

A wheel on the upper tray that moves in the slide broke.

  • Customer: Melvin from Rochester Hills MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Actual repair took less than 5 minutes. Removed 5 screws from original "adjuster' and removed the outside housing. Aligned the replacement part and simply replaced the five screws. Wheels on the replacement part are held in place with steel "rivets" while original wheels are all plastic and held in place with a screw . The replacement part is a much sturdier set-up. I saved the unbroken wheel from the original adjuster in the event a wheel on the right hand adjuster breaks.

Dishwasher filled normally with water and seemed to be cycling normally, but after cycle complete, no washing had occurred.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Brandon MS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I first listened carefully and noticed that during cycling, the electric motors could be heard starting, stopping, and apparently running normally during both wash and emptying cycles. However, no water was being pumped around during the wash cycles, while emptying (which uses a different motor) worked normally throughout all cycles. Thus it seemed to me that the electronic programming was working correctly in turning both motors on and off as necessary. So I figured somehow the wash motor impella was not turning and pumping water, despite the fact that the motor was indeed running correctly. So I removed all the plastic housings, the screwed on impella, and the metal chopper at the base of dishwasher. Then I was able to easily pry the old plastic chopper sleeve right off of the electric motor shaft (normally it is screwed on and cannot be pryed off). Since the plastic threads inside the chopper sleeve were completely stripped, the motor shaft would turn but the impella would slip on the shaft and not be driven. The replacement sleeve was much better constructed (metal not plastic). It could be easily screwed on to the motor's driveshaft after lifting the old rubber seal and gently holding the motor shaft with a pliers (carefull to avoid scratching the shaft). I removed the old rubber seal nd replaced it with the new one from the kit, right over the newly installed metal chopper sleeve. Next, I easily centered the metal chopper sleeve and pressed in the new seal after reinstalling the plastic/metal chopper screen, using the temporary jig included in the kit. Then the jig was discarded and the impella simply screwed onto the chopper sleeve (using the appropriately threaded hold-down screw provided in the kit). Finally, the rest of the plastic hardware is screwed in place. Waahhlaa...now impella is motor driven again and blows water hard into the dishwasher during the wash and rinse cycles. Total cost of job to do-it-yourself, $29.50 including shipping (which only took three working days). Estimated job if down by appliance repairman, $140 (assuming the repairman didn't first erroneously blame the problem on faulty electronics then charge you hundreds of $$'s to replace circuits which were not broken to begin with, only to find the dishwasher still not washing/rinsing after his expensive electronic circuit replacements. The actually mechanical fix was cheap and simple. Truthfully, there is no excuse for Jenn Aire to ever use a plastic Chopper Sleeve in their dishwashers to begin with.......carefully planned obsolesence if you ask me. Oh well, it works perfect now. I doubt if even the four marbles my 4 year old had tried earlier to wash in my dishwasher (stripping out the original chopper sleeve) would do any damage to the metal replacement. However, I don't plan on testing my hunch. A simple fix, but a slightly challenging diagnosis which relied on a keen sense of hearing and a quiet workplace. Seems many people in these blogs have had the very same problem with their Jenn Air/Maytag dishwashers, and have made the same diagnosis and the same simple fix. Thank you mucho, PartSelect.
All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
76-90 of 816