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Models > MDB8600AWW > Instructions

MDB8600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB8600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
46-60 of 823
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My dainty darling wife using brute force brike the latch assembly by taking out her frustration on having to do the dishes again. Although broken the dishwasher still worked, but was difficult in opening. Trying to open it one evening her brute force tore the plastic on the panel near the latch. Now

  • Customer: Ron from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First , unplug your dishwasher from the outlet.Then remove the 9screws all the way around the inside of the door,followed by removing the 2 screws that hold the latch, 2 screws that hold the panel and 2 screws that hold the black case containing the electronic circuit board. You need to open up the black case in order to remove the thin cable that connects to the circuit board and which makes everything work. (You get a new one allready attached with the new panel). Next go to the latch assembly.You alsoneed to unhook the black & white leads. Take your time here and pull them straight back and slowly with a pair of needlenose pliers. They are stubborn so just take your time.To be safe I drew a small diagram to make sure that I hooked the white back to the right connection.
Once the part s were received , I put the new panel on, connected the cable to the circuit board, closed the case and put the screws back in. Next , I put the black & white wires back on the switch ( based on my diagram) , put the 2 screws in the latch locations and then put the remaining screws back into the inside door. Plugged it in , tested it, and everything worked just fine.
So far the wife hasn't used her herculean strength again. This is a Maytag & things aren't supposed to break.
Last note: Your telephone person was a jewel. The latch was shown as NLA (No longer available). She took the time when I called to follow up on the part number and find another number made by another company by special order. Absolutely first class in my book. Kudos to her.
Thanks again, service was good and delivery was within 5 days.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

The impeller was not spinning. There was no washing water.

  • Customer: Brian from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.
You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.
The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!

Dishwasher heating element bad

  • Customer: Gary from Indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.

broken wheel on the top pull out rack

  • Customer: Mike from Axtell, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I placed a cutting board under the rack to hold it in place while I took the five screws out of the bracket holding the T shaped bracket in place. I then just switched out the old for the new and guided the bracket into the side mounting piece and placed the end cap back on. Double checked the tightness of the screws and it was done.

The regular wash button and the start button would not light up.

  • Customer: Todd from Waterloo, NE
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Just had to remove the screws from the inside of the washer. Took the screws off of the control panel. Disconected the wires (easy) then replaced with the new part. Much easier than I thought it would be, I might be thinking of doing repairs for other people now... thank you so much

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Darrell from Snellville, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

Dishwasher wasn't cleaning well, especially top rack

  • Customer: Casey from Wadsworth, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I wanted to get the dishwasher cleaning better and thought that maybe the accumulator needed to be replaced. I figured that I'd swap out all the spray arms as well, just for good measure.

I needed Torx screwdrivers (T15 and T20, I think - not 100% sure on that) and patience because there's really quite a lot of screws to get the accumulator out. Finally got to it and it didn't look damaged, but replaced it anyway.

The spray arms are easy - they just snap in except for the lowest one, that had a plastic nut. I ordered a replacement nut just in case I broke this one (you know how that goes) taking it off. Well, it took pliers, but it came off ok.

In the end, my dishwasher is happy and cleans much better now.

MIddle rack; broken wheel on slide that allows you to pull rack in and out

  • Customer: Larry from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement wheels are metal, which is much better. However, you have to buy the entire adjuster assy.--so $32 for a $1.50 wheel, but what can you do? You need a star bit in order to remove the five screws on the plastic cover. Be sure to pay attention to how the adjuster lever is inserted, but it's not at all complex. A very quick and easy process.

dishwasher leaked

  • Customer: Jean from Gaffney, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

My dog got into the kitchen by going over the dishwasher (100 lb Lab), and bent the rack tracks and broke one of the track wheels. My family wanted a new dishwasher. Whereas I am cheap.

  • Customer: Christopher from Upton, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
A simple remove and replace was all it took. Remove the little latches on the end of the tracks, Slide the track out, take the broken wheels off-they snap off. Snap new wheels on rack. Slide new track in threading it through the stationary wheels attached to the wall of the unit, and through the wheels of the rack. Snap the end-caps back on. Good as new. Also replaced a fold away tine that had the plastic worn off it (=rusted). These snap out and new one in very easily.

Weeping water control valve

  • Customer: Robert from Woodstock, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and power to the unit. Removed kick plate from under the dishwasher to access the water contol valve. Placed an absorbant rag under the water valve and water line. Disconnected solenoid on water control valve from electrical connection with my fingers. Used a standard adjustable wrench to disconnect the water line from the water control valve. Then used a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the two bolts that hold the water control valve on to the mounting bracket. Pulled the water control valve slightly forward to disconnect the water feed line to the dishwasher. Used a blunt end plier to pinch the clamp open and slowly wiggle the feed line off of the water control valve. Then removed 90 degree elbow off of the water control valve and used pipe dope and connected the elbow onto the new water control valve. Replaced water control valve in reverse order and utilized new hose clamp to reconnect feed line to new water control valve. Saved door seal for future use, when seal goes bad.

Very little water going into the dishwasher

  • Customer: Ralph from Taft, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

The door would just flop down when you opened it

  • Customer: David from Plano, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

the soap dispenser wouldn't open during cycle

  • Customer: paul from spring hill, TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.
All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
46-60 of 823