MDB8600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.

I noticed there was a filter type of material in the bottom of the dishwasher that had a small tear in it and figured that was my problem. I removed the nut from the sprayer arm at the bottom of the tub, removed the sprayer arm, removed 3 screws of the plastic cover below that. Removed six screws on the plastic cover below that. Removed one screw fron the center of the black pump spinner wheel that allowed me to lift off that cover. Then I lifted out the flowplate assembly. Placed the new part in and reversed the steps. Works like new again! All for about $30...I am not trianed in any way and have no experience in this kind of thing but am motivated trying to avoid a large service bill for a few screws. I am so happy...Thanks PartSelect!

I first replaced the door seal and that did not stop the problem but noticed two little seals on the door. They were terribly worn so I unscrewed the door and cut the little washers that were holding the old ones in place. I replaced the seals and put the cut washers back on (I didn't have new ones) and it was done. All is well.

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

I removed the 11 screws that hold the plastic inner liner to the outer sheet metal of the door. The latch will be right there, and very easy to access. I Just removed the two connectors for the wires, which are a bit stubborn, and used a pliers for leverage to get them off the latch. Installed them on the new latch, and put the door halves back together, and ran the 11 screws back in. A side note, I have noticed that on the plastic front panel that houses the buttons, that there are two plastic tabs that are cast into the unit, that are chronically broken. They are there to help hold the latch solid when you put the two halves of the door together. I have been really easy on the door, but they still break, but it seems to work pretty well without the tabs intact. This happened to me twice, because I replaced the front upper panel on it, and the same thing happened again. Engineering issue I assume. Overall, a quick and simple install.

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

All other lights on the front control panel were lighting up but the dishwasher would not start. I checked the float in the front right hand side on the floor of the dishwasher to make sure it was not stuck. I also made sure the door would "click" when shut. I went on line and found out that the most common problem with this brand of dishwasher not starting was a bad control panel. It was simple to replace.

first i removed eight torx (t-20) size screws...from the inner door . Then the wired harness surrounding the latch handle...( just a warning..im very very handy..esp with electric and got a little too cocky....pls make sure you turn off the power to the dishwasher...and avoid being zapped as i did ok?) the replacement part snapped in perfectly and was actually better quality than the maytag original...all it took then was to put the eight screws back and the washer was up and running in about 1o mins..

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Once I got the door open, I removed the door cover screws with a Torx driver, where I found the broken handle and the Latch Assembly. One of the plastic handle pivot points had broken clean off. In my Brilliance, I went online to PartSelect, found that the part that I needed had been discontinued (from Maytag) and picked one that looked right. It ended up being the assembly without the handle, the part I needed. Save yourself some time and call the 800 number to make sure you get what you need. They were very helpfull in returning the wrong part to get the right one. Once I had the part, the repair was very straightforward. I just had to open the door up again, swap in the new Latch Assembly with the steel reinforced pivot point handle, and put the screws back in the door. The latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws. Watch the cut off switches on the assembly, the power is hot until you power off the circut at the electric panel.

Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.