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MDB8600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB8600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
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Broken lower rack adjuster

  • Customer: Robert from Middletown OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This is a very common problem with this model. However, in addition to this part, you also need the following part numbers (which are not listed for this model):
PS920544 - Lever Adjuster
PS893981 - Cover, Rack Adjuster

The updated RACK ADJUSTER ASSY part did not match up to the other parts in my dishwasher. But, after I found a diagram for another dishwasher model that showed the above two parts as well, I ordered them in hopes that they would work for mine. They worked like a charm, and the design of the new updated part is much better than the original part (which, if you take a look at epinions.com, breaks on just about every machine).

I hope this helps someone out ... I was close to ditching our 1.5 year old dishwasher and buying a new one!

The dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: Brian from Keokuk IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.

  • Customer: George from Andover KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

Latch Handle was broken from inside

  • Customer: Richard from Franklin PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).
2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.
3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)
4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)
NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together.
5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.
NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.
6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.
7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).
8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.

grinding noise during cycle

  • Customer: rich from liberty twp OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

Broken door latch

  • Customer: Leonard from Plant City FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The repair stories on PartSelect.com told me exactly what to do.

First, I checked the inside of the door and confirmed that the inside panel of the door was held in place with about 10 torx screws.

Second, I went out and bought a set of torx screwdrivers.

Third, I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE BREAKER BOX! Safety first!

Fourth, I removed the screws and gently lifted the inside panel of the door, and then gently lifted the broken door latch assembly out of its slot. (There were no more screws to remove, because the latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws.) Two sets of wires, one white and the other black, were connected to the latch assembly by plug-in connectors.

Fifth, I unplugged the wires from the broken latch assembly. The clips in the plug were very tight, so I used a dishtowel to hold onto the latch assembly. I found that gave me a better grip.

Sixth, I plugged the wires onto the new latch assembly, and then slipped the latch assembly back into the slot.

Seventh, I replaced the inside door panel, and replaced in the 10 torx screws.

Finally, I turned on the power at the breaker box, closed the door, and turned on the dishwasher. It ran perfectly!

I would like tyo add that I had ordered an unnecessary part by mistake. I called the return number, and the person who answered was extremely helpful. She gave me the return authorization number and I put the part in the mail. Ten days later, I received an email from PartSelect.com confirming that the part had arrived and that my account had been credited.

The entire process was easy and pleasant. Anybody can do this! Just make sure to shut off the power at the breaker box before you start on the job.

The clips holding folding parts of the dishwasher rack had broken, so I ordered replacement clips.

  • Customer: ELAINE from COOS BAY OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I snapped the new parts onto the old parts of the dish rack. Voila! All done.

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Darrell from Snellville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

Water leaking from bottom of dishwasher at motor.

  • Customer: Jack from Lee's Summit MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

My dainty darling wife using brute force brike the latch assembly by taking out her frustration on having to do the dishes again. Although broken the dishwasher still worked, but was difficult in opening. Trying to open it one evening her brute force tore the plastic on the panel near the latch. Now

  • Customer: Ron from Scottsdale AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First , unplug your dishwasher from the outlet.Then remove the 9screws all the way around the inside of the door,followed by removing the 2 screws that hold the latch, 2 screws that hold the panel and 2 screws that hold the black case containing the electronic circuit board. You need to open up the black case in order to remove the thin cable that connects to the circuit board and which makes everything work. (You get a new one allready attached with the new panel). Next go to the latch assembly.You alsoneed to unhook the black & white leads. Take your time here and pull them straight back and slowly with a pair of needlenose pliers. They are stubborn so just take your time.To be safe I drew a small diagram to make sure that I hooked the white back to the right connection.
Once the part s were received , I put the new panel on, connected the cable to the circuit board, closed the case and put the screws back in. Next , I put the black & white wires back on the switch ( based on my diagram) , put the 2 screws in the latch locations and then put the remaining screws back into the inside door. Plugged it in , tested it, and everything worked just fine.
So far the wife hasn't used her herculean strength again. This is a Maytag & things aren't supposed to break.
Last note: Your telephone person was a jewel. The latch was shown as NLA (No longer available). She took the time when I called to follow up on the part number and find another number made by another company by special order. Absolutely first class in my book. Kudos to her.
Thanks again, service was good and delivery was within 5 days.

Dishwasher handle broke

  • Customer: Christy from Warm Springs GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This was a very easy repair. Before I did anything, I flipped the breaker for the dishwasher and tried to turn the dishwasher on to make sure it had no power going to it. Once I was certain the power was off I removed the hex screws (there are 11) on the inside of the door panel using the hex screwdriver. Lifting and holding the inside panel up, I then used the pliers to pry the old latch assembly out of its metal prongs. Then I replaced the old latch assembly with the new one, pushing the metal prongs (by hand) into the slits of the new latch assembly. Last, I lined everything up and screwed the door panel back in place. I flipped the breaker back on and activated my child lock to make sure I had power. The handle worked perfectly. Quick and easy fix!
I ordered the part with 3-5 day delivery and actually received it in 2 days! I'm extremely pleased with my partselect.com experience and highly recommend using them for all your appliance parts needs!

Door leaks

  • Customer: ROY from SUFFOLK VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.

A mouse had chewed on the inlet cover to the point that it would no longer stay in it's hole.

  • Customer: Melissa from Wales WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

The plastic piece that held the rack to the side of the slider broke

  • Customer: Sally from Mission Viejo CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws and disasempled the plastic covering that held the slide in place. I then replaced the rack adjuster and replaced the screws.

This was exciting for me as I was not about to wait for my husband to do it as I had a load of dishes in the sink just waiting for it to be done!

It was amazingly simple and the hardest part was remembering where in the rack it was to be replaced! I was back in commission within 15 minutes (It would have been 10 if I had placed it right the first time!!
All Instructions for the MDB8600AWW
31-45 of 816