MDB7600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement wheels are metal, which is much better. However, you have to buy the entire adjuster assy.--so $32 for a $1.50 wheel, but what can you do? You need a star bit in order to remove the five screws on the plastic cover. Be sure to pay attention to how the adjuster lever is inserted, but it's not at all complex. A very quick and easy process.

After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.
You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.
The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!

Removed the rack from the dishwasher. Removed Torx head screws holding the stabilizer in place. Pulled the two sections apart. Cleaned out the junk and replaced the stabilizer bar. New one had wheels with steel axles, so this should last much longer than the plastic ones. Put the rack back into the dishwasher. Ready to go.

I wanted to get the dishwasher cleaning better and thought that maybe the accumulator needed to be replaced. I figured that I'd swap out all the spray arms as well, just for good measure.

I needed Torx screwdrivers (T15 and T20, I think - not 100% sure on that) and patience because there's really quite a lot of screws to get the accumulator out. Finally got to it and it didn't look damaged, but replaced it anyway.

The spray arms are easy - they just snap in except for the lowest one, that had a plastic nut. I ordered a replacement nut just in case I broke this one (you know how that goes) taking it off. Well, it took pliers, but it came off ok.

In the end, my dishwasher is happy and cleans much better now.

The original brackets that hold the water distribution manifold to the back and top of the tub came off the "X-shaped" plastic posts on the tub walls. That caused the upper wash arm to sag down into the travel of the upper dish rack and was broken off when the rack was pushed in.
I bought 2 new brackets and a new wash arm. The new brackets had a smaller aperature than the originals and fit tightly onto the plastic posts, holding the manifold firmly in its proper location. Replacement of the brackets and the new wash arm took less than ten minutes and required no tools!

1)Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
2)Remove screws that fasten plastic liner to outer door with allen wrench.
3)Disconnect two wiring connections to latch assembly; this was toughest part of project, had to use pliers to get metal connectors our of sockets.
4)Connected new assembly and screwed door back together.

The replacement was easy but it's frustrating that the control panel would go bad so quickly (just over 5 years old). There are about 10 torx head screws (I think T20) to take out in order to open the door. Then about 5 head head bolts to detach the control panel from the door. Finally a thin ribbon electrical connector from the control panel to the cpu board -- also attached to the door.

Reassembly was pretty much the reverse -- very straight forward.

I wasn't certain the control panel needed replacing as it seemed there might have been a blown breaker in the system somewhere. However, I stumbled on the instructions for sales floor demo mode (press extra rinse 5 times quickly). That showed all the lights working, so it didn't seem to be an electrical problem. You turn off demo mode by pressing the start button. That didn't work, so it seemed pretty clear the button was the problem.

1. De-energize appliance at your electrical circuit breaker panel.
2. using torx # 15 remove the back cover of the door. Careful not to pull on wiring between door and cover.
3. Remove the cover to the circuit board to access the control panel "ribbon"
4. carefully and gently pry the plastic tab which secures the ribbon to the circuit board. The ribbon will be released and then remove the control panel two mounting screws on either side.
5. Don't worry, this takes longer to read than to perform the required steps.
6.Now install the new panel, do not tighten the screws until you have all the screws in just snug.
place the ribbon connector into the slot at the circuit board, secure it with the tab by pressing gently until its secured.
7. Completely tighten all control panel and circuit board cover screws, place back cover and ensure that the bottom end goes over the edge of door, careful with those foam splash seal and align all screw holes, replace screws, again do not tighten until all screws are in place.
8. Turn appliance circuit breaker back on and see that the LED lights come on on the control panel. Run a test load and enjoy the feeling of a job well done.

Not being very computer literate, the most difficult part of the entire venture was navigating your web site. But I finally found the part I needed. I paid on line with a credit card, and received the part within a few days. I popped it in the dishwasher, and it took three days before my son noticed it.
He was surprised and I was proud to say " I ordered it on line."
All's well that end's well.
I would difinately use your service again.

disconnected unit (electrical, water, and waste) un mounted from countertop, removed from under countertop, unscrewed hose clamb, cut off wire tie. Attached new hose and wire tie (not included) reversed above steps. Done in about 15 minutes

I unscrewed the door panel. removed the plastic cover protecting the dispenser. unscrewed the dispenser (6 screws). I removed the old dispenser and put the new one on and put it all back together. It was pretty easy.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

This isn't a how to fix it....it's what part was bad. I had originally contacted the local Maytag repair center and the owner swore up and down that our problem had to be the thermostat and not the heater. He said he had only replaced maybe 5 heaters in 15 years. But our heater looked like heck, with hard water deposits and all, and it wasn't that old, but we went ahead and ordered the thermostat from PartSelect, which came in a day. The problem wasn't the thermostat, so we ordered the heater from PartSelect (again, only one day delivery) and our dishwasher is working again. The heater coil actually had a hole in it from some sort of corrosion. My 18-year-old son did the repair job in a jiffy.

Unpluged the electric, Disconnected the water line and the drain line. Removed the dishwasher. Removed and installed the new water inlet valve and the float switch. This was a very simple repair. Reinstalled the dishwasher and connect
the water and drain line. Pluged in the power line. Turned the dishwasher on and it worked perfect. Thank you for the correct parts.

Used torx bit to remove screws on door and removed the back of door. Removed wiring from switches (2) on broken latch and removed latch. Plugged in switches on new latch and placed latch in position. Screwed back of door into place and that was it! Very simple task and new latch looks and feels much more sturdy than old one.