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Models > MDB7600AWW > Instructions

MDB7600AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7600AWW
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Dishwasher handle broke

  • Customer: Christy from Warm Springs, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This was a very easy repair. Before I did anything, I flipped the breaker for the dishwasher and tried to turn the dishwasher on to make sure it had no power going to it. Once I was certain the power was off I removed the hex screws (there are 11) on the inside of the door panel using the hex screwdriver. Lifting and holding the inside panel up, I then used the pliers to pry the old latch assembly out of its metal prongs. Then I replaced the old latch assembly with the new one, pushing the metal prongs (by hand) into the slits of the new latch assembly. Last, I lined everything up and screwed the door panel back in place. I flipped the breaker back on and activated my child lock to make sure I had power. The handle worked perfectly. Quick and easy fix!
I ordered the part with 3-5 day delivery and actually received it in 2 days! I'm extremely pleased with my partselect.com experience and highly recommend using them for all your appliance parts needs!

My dainty darling wife using brute force brike the latch assembly by taking out her frustration on having to do the dishes again. Although broken the dishwasher still worked, but was difficult in opening. Trying to open it one evening her brute force tore the plastic on the panel near the latch. Now

  • Customer: Ron from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First , unplug your dishwasher from the outlet.Then remove the 9screws all the way around the inside of the door,followed by removing the 2 screws that hold the latch, 2 screws that hold the panel and 2 screws that hold the black case containing the electronic circuit board. You need to open up the black case in order to remove the thin cable that connects to the circuit board and which makes everything work. (You get a new one allready attached with the new panel). Next go to the latch assembly.You alsoneed to unhook the black & white leads. Take your time here and pull them straight back and slowly with a pair of needlenose pliers. They are stubborn so just take your time.To be safe I drew a small diagram to make sure that I hooked the white back to the right connection.
Once the part s were received , I put the new panel on, connected the cable to the circuit board, closed the case and put the screws back in. Next , I put the black & white wires back on the switch ( based on my diagram) , put the 2 screws in the latch locations and then put the remaining screws back into the inside door. Plugged it in , tested it, and everything worked just fine.
So far the wife hasn't used her herculean strength again. This is a Maytag & things aren't supposed to break.
Last note: Your telephone person was a jewel. The latch was shown as NLA (No longer available). She took the time when I called to follow up on the part number and find another number made by another company by special order. Absolutely first class in my book. Kudos to her.
Thanks again, service was good and delivery was within 5 days.

silverware basket broken - replaced with new one

  • Customer: Linda from Owasso, OK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

broken door springs

  • Customer: jeffrey from holland, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

Water leaking from bottom of dishwasher at motor.

  • Customer: Jack from Lee's Summit, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

The vinyl coating on the forward rack of convertible tines dried and cracked away, allowing the steel underneath to rust and deteriorate. It eventually just broke.

  • Customer: Donna from Grand Ledge, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
After looking the situation over, I decided to remove the entire lower rack and place it on the counter where I could see better. I specified I needed the front tine (part # 24), but received both front and back tines). I used the screwdriver to help slip the old piece out of the plastic clamp end. I broke the end of the first clamp, but fortunately, replacement clamps were also included in the kit. I decided it would be easier to assemble the tines and the clamps first, and then install that into the rack, so I had to remove the other plastic clamp and did so successfully. Then holding the assemblage in place to see just where to snap it into place, I proceeded one clamp at a time and installed it. I kept the new back tine guide just in case someday that one wears out too.

The impeller was not spinning. There was no washing water.

  • Customer: Brian from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
After finding out that the impeller shaft was stripped (plastic) I quickly found the correct replacement on partselect.com by using my model number.
You do not have to remove the dishwasher, if you know what is wrong. But, throw the breaker switch and turn off the water! After removing the spin washer arm, Undo all of the torx screws and pull out the plastic filter looking plates along with the center plastic water jet. This jet provides water for the upper washer assembly. You may have to pop that upper assembly out to protect it from damage.
The black impeller should just pull out if the plastic shaft is stripped. Otherwise, unscrew the small torx head and remove the impeller. You can remove the blade at this time and unscrew the plastic shaft by unthreading it while keeping the motor from spinning. (I shoved a screw driver underneath the dishwasher through the motor. Also the motor is just floating on the rubber gasket and can easily pulled out to accomplish this task. It's heavy and has a plug attached to it. You'll see where you can shove the screw driver. This comes in handy while installing the new shaft, because it is metal. Which is a great, long awaited upgrade for the Maytag Quiet Series. Once you find which shaft to use, (which correct inner thread, course or fine), install it with the great directions that come with the part. Putting all the stuff together is not as bad as one would think, there is only one way for it to go back together. After installation is complete, turn water and breaker switch back on. Run a cycle and listen for the washing cycle against the wall of the washer. If you cannot tell the difference, you can unscrew the white lock arm and insert it into the door. Turn it on and watch how a dishwasher works. Get ready to get a little wet. Towels!

broken wheel on the top pull out rack

  • Customer: Mike from Axtell, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I placed a cutting board under the rack to hold it in place while I took the five screws out of the bracket holding the T shaped bracket in place. I then just switched out the old for the new and guided the bracket into the side mounting piece and placed the end cap back on. Double checked the tightness of the screws and it was done.

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Darrell from Snellville, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

Dishwasher wasn't cleaning well, especially top rack

  • Customer: Casey from Wadsworth, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I wanted to get the dishwasher cleaning better and thought that maybe the accumulator needed to be replaced. I figured that I'd swap out all the spray arms as well, just for good measure.

I needed Torx screwdrivers (T15 and T20, I think - not 100% sure on that) and patience because there's really quite a lot of screws to get the accumulator out. Finally got to it and it didn't look damaged, but replaced it anyway.

The spray arms are easy - they just snap in except for the lowest one, that had a plastic nut. I ordered a replacement nut just in case I broke this one (you know how that goes) taking it off. Well, it took pliers, but it came off ok.

In the end, my dishwasher is happy and cleans much better now.

MIddle rack; broken wheel on slide that allows you to pull rack in and out

  • Customer: Larry from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement wheels are metal, which is much better. However, you have to buy the entire adjuster assy.--so $32 for a $1.50 wheel, but what can you do? You need a star bit in order to remove the five screws on the plastic cover. Be sure to pay attention to how the adjuster lever is inserted, but it's not at all complex. A very quick and easy process.

dishwasher leaked

  • Customer: Jean from Gaffney, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Top rack wheel broke, dishwasher didn't run right.

  • Customer: Michael from Zillah, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the rack from the dishwasher. Removed Torx head screws holding the stabilizer in place. Pulled the two sections apart. Cleaned out the junk and replaced the stabilizer bar. New one had wheels with steel axles, so this should last much longer than the plastic ones. Put the rack back into the dishwasher. Ready to go.

Weeping water control valve

  • Customer: Robert from Woodstock, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and power to the unit. Removed kick plate from under the dishwasher to access the water contol valve. Placed an absorbant rag under the water valve and water line. Disconnected solenoid on water control valve from electrical connection with my fingers. Used a standard adjustable wrench to disconnect the water line from the water control valve. Then used a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the two bolts that hold the water control valve on to the mounting bracket. Pulled the water control valve slightly forward to disconnect the water feed line to the dishwasher. Used a blunt end plier to pinch the clamp open and slowly wiggle the feed line off of the water control valve. Then removed 90 degree elbow off of the water control valve and used pipe dope and connected the elbow onto the new water control valve. Replaced water control valve in reverse order and utilized new hose clamp to reconnect feed line to new water control valve. Saved door seal for future use, when seal goes bad.
All Instructions for the MDB7600AWW
46-60 of 935