Models > MDB7100AWB > Instructions

MDB7100AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7100AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 824
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

our dishwasher needed a motor shaft seal

  • Customer: Carrie from Platteville CO
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I recieved a different part than was in the picture and description that I ordered, and was billed twice for it. I wasn't able to fix my dishwasher

Made noise like something was bouncing around in the spray arm.

  • Customer: Margaret from Unionville CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

dishwasher door leaking

  • Customer: JoAnn from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

Leaks out and below the front door

  • Customer: John Todd from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Dishes were not getting totally clean.

  • Customer: Dennis from Liberty MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Close door, turn on dishwasher, walk away. 5 to 10 min later dishwasher not running. Push in at the door latch and dishwasher would start back up.

  • Customer: Allan from East Bernard TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the inner door panel-Removed the black cowling covering the timer and wires.
Removed the swicth assembly and installed new part.
Reassembled dishwasher.

I checked the operation of the two switches. One switch did not click, when button was pushed, as cleanly as the other. There was a bit of delay and play in the button when depressed, even sticking a bit.

Grinding noise/dishes not washing properly. Soap not dissolving.

  • Customer: Eric from Gualala CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Other parts used:
Discharge Housing Assembly (#11)
Impeller Assembly (Wash Impeller) (#14)
O-Ring (#37)
Upper Discharge Housing Gasket (#38)

Removed upper and lower washing baskets.

Pulled off Upper Spray Arm (#33). It pulls off easily by hand. No tools required. Replaced with new Upper Spray Arm (#33) and Snap Spray Retainer (#31).

Removed Large Spray Arm Cap(#34,)which has a right hand thread. This allowed me to take the Lower Spray Arm(#2)off.
Removed Filter Guard (#36).

Next I removed the 6 screws from the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4) with a Torx screwdriver. Removed Lower Spray Arm Seal(#3), Pump House Filter (#6)(which I cleaned), Assembly, Rinse Arm (#7) Jump Up Nozzle (#1). Unscrewed Discharge Housing Nut(#8) by hand. Removed Support, Wash Arm (#9). This allowed me to remove the three screws holding the Discharge Housing Assembly(#11)with a 5/16th nut driver. Next I removed the Impeller Screw (#12) with a 5/16th nut driver. You must hold the Impeller Assembly (#14) firmly while loosening the nut. Removed Impeller Assembly (#12) and Plate, Suction (#15). Cleaned out area of debris,lint, etc. Put back old Plate, Suction (#15) and replaced Impeller Assembly (#14) with new part. Replaced Upper Housing Gasket and Discharge Housing Assembly with new parts. Put back all parts in the reverse order I removed them replacing the O-Ring (#37) with a new part. This O-Ring goes in the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4).

After completely assembled it ran as good as new!

Leak under dishwasher wash and rince

  • Customer: Richard from Edison NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

Dishwasher not getting dishes clean

  • Customer: Matt from Middletown MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.

Loud grinding noise when dishwasher was draining

  • Customer: Joann from Oakland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. Print out the "pump and motor" exploded diagram and label the numbered parts down to #11 (discharge housing assembly).

2. Unscrew the "lower spray arm cap" (#34) by hand (it just twists off), remove the "jump up nozzle" (#1), and lift the "lower spray arm" (#2) and filter guard" (#36) out together.

3. With a torx screw driver, remove the screws holding the "pump cover and secondary filter assembly" (#4), taking note how the assembly was positioned. Be careful not to lose the two plastic "lower spray arm seals".

4. Lift out the "pump housing filter" (#6) and "rinse arm assembly" (#7).

5. With a 5/16 wrench, remove the bolts holding the "discharge housing assembly" (#11). You will likely find a plastic disk just sitting there under the discharge housing assembly. This is the source of your problem. It is the lower plate that has worn loose from the rest of the assembly and the noise is from it being ground by the impeller below.

6. The simplest fix is to order a new "discharge housing assembly" along with gaskets #37 - O-ring (for "pump cover in step #3. Mine was missing.) and #38 - "upper discharge housing gasket. Three parts to order and save your exploded diagram for when you put it back together.

7. Remove the "discharge housing nut" at the top of the old discharge assembly, lift off the "wash arm support", and put both on the new discharge assembly.

8. Insert new seals where they belong and reassemble the dishwasher in reverse order.

No Water caused soap to not dispense & no clean dishes.

  • Customer: Robert from Brookdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.

water not flowing into dishwasher

  • Customer: Doug from Cornish ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
turn off breaker
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!

original basket fell apart

  • Customer: D from Villas NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Our 16 year old dishwasher's top rack lost most of the coated metal 'prongs' that separated/supported items on the upper rack.

  • Customer: Cheryl from White Lake MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
With a straight edge screwdriver I carefully removed the plastic end caps on the rack support glider-shelves, replaced the old rack with the new rack, and then reattached the end caps.

I felt better about ordering the part Online after having talked to a sales person since there were several racks from which to choose. She reassured me that I was ordering the correct part number. I am a woman and 62 years of age, and I was pretty sure this installation would be a no-brainer. I just wanted to make sure I had the right part for the job.

REPLACED RACKS, LOWER RACK HAS DESIGN FLAW

  • Customer: GREG from Castle Rock CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced upper and lower racks. The new lower rack has a design flaw: it has 3 wheels on each side, but should have 4 wheels on each side. When you pull out the bottom rack, the last set of wheels drop down into the open space where the door hinges to the cabinet, causing the dishes to bounce and shake around. Then when you push rack in, you have to lift it back up onto the tracks made for the wheels to roll on. You can't pull the bottom rack out far enough to access the back of the rack very well.
All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 824