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Models > MDB7100AWB > Instructions

MDB7100AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7100AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 850
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The lower dishwasher rack was rusted out

  • Customer: Alice from Cambridge, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
We ordered the replacement part for our Maytag model and when it came we saw that it was different than the original part. The original part had 8 wheels with a higher left hand side. The replacement part had only 6 wheels and no higher side. The replacement part would not pull in and out evenly and was a bit too narrower. We called Parts Select and told them our problem and they are going to refund us in full and take back the part they sent. Alas we will have to buy a new dishwasher. We would use Part Select in the future for replacement parts.
Alice
Cambridge, MA

Grinding noise/dishes not washing properly. Soap not dissolving.

  • Customer: Eric from Gualala, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Other parts used:
Discharge Housing Assembly (#11)
Impeller Assembly (Wash Impeller) (#14)
O-Ring (#37)
Upper Discharge Housing Gasket (#38)

Removed upper and lower washing baskets.

Pulled off Upper Spray Arm (#33). It pulls off easily by hand. No tools required. Replaced with new Upper Spray Arm (#33) and Snap Spray Retainer (#31).

Removed Large Spray Arm Cap(#34,)which has a right hand thread. This allowed me to take the Lower Spray Arm(#2)off.
Removed Filter Guard (#36).

Next I removed the 6 screws from the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4) with a Torx screwdriver. Removed Lower Spray Arm Seal(#3), Pump House Filter (#6)(which I cleaned), Assembly, Rinse Arm (#7) Jump Up Nozzle (#1). Unscrewed Discharge Housing Nut(#8) by hand. Removed Support, Wash Arm (#9). This allowed me to remove the three screws holding the Discharge Housing Assembly(#11)with a 5/16th nut driver. Next I removed the Impeller Screw (#12) with a 5/16th nut driver. You must hold the Impeller Assembly (#14) firmly while loosening the nut. Removed Impeller Assembly (#12) and Plate, Suction (#15). Cleaned out area of debris,lint, etc. Put back old Plate, Suction (#15) and replaced Impeller Assembly (#14) with new part. Replaced Upper Housing Gasket and Discharge Housing Assembly with new parts. Put back all parts in the reverse order I removed them replacing the O-Ring (#37) with a new part. This O-Ring goes in the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4).

After completely assembled it ran as good as new!

original basket fell apart

  • Customer: D from Villas, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Leak around door

  • Customer: RON from MOUNT AIRY, MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD

Water leak from Bottom of Float Assembly

  • Customer: Michael from Cheshire, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Door leak and leak on inlet valve

  • Customer: April from Valdosta, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the door latch grommet just as everyone else has described on this site. It was pretty easy. I was amazed that such a little piece of rubber can let so much water get by. The inlet valve was not too bad either. Take the two bolts out that hold the bracket to the dishwasher. Remove the rubber hose on the back side and take loose the two electrical connections. My water line was long enough to pull it out in front of the dishwasher. Then I took the water line loose and removed the fitting. Installed the new one in reverse order of what I just described. These items took care of the bulk of the leaking problem. But I am in the process of ordering a new door seal which I hope resolves the rest of the issue. Also make sure you check the upper and lower control arms to make sure the spray holes are free of debris. This dishwasher was full of pieces of clear plastic that caused the spray arms to spray indirectly and towards the cracks of the doors.

Water Leaking

  • Customer: Benjamin from Montrose, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

Door would fall open

  • Customer: Margaret from New Orleans, LA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

Noise when washing or draining

  • Customer: Daryl from Turlock, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Remove bottom rack. Unscrew the retaining ring on the wash arm, remove along with wash nozzle. Unscrew the eight retaining screws on the filter cover and remove (be carefull not to lose the two plastic bushings). Pick off and set aside the wash fan. Remove the six retaining bolts on the discharge housing. Pull up and remove the discharge housing. Remove the gasket (buy a new one, cheap and easier) with small screwdriver. Push gasket into new assembly. Under plastic nut with pliers and take off the plastic bushing that the wash arm rides on. Install new housing assembly with the parts that was taken off in the reverse order. Be carfull when installing the filter cover to make sure the drain outlet is aligned or mated to drain. Gently push down until the filter in down and continue reassembly.


(PS: Never use Sears parts, they extrembly slow as well unable to deliver on time).
Wash your dishes

Made noise like something was bouncing around in the spray arm.

  • Customer: Margaret from Unionville, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

We had to replace the soap dispenser door because it wouldn't open during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Robert from Hamlet, NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Open the soap dispenser door. On the top right side, there is a round pin holder. Take a small brad or nail and knock the pin out from right to left. Hold the door in place and after the right side pin is out, carefully slide the door up and to the right in order to remove the pin and spring from the left side slot. Notice how the spring is inserted in the slot as it has to go back in exactly as it came out. (short end first. Long end last.)

Put the spring on the left side pin and reinsert the door into place and then tap in he right side pin.

You're done but you won't know that until you run the dishwasher and if the dispenser door is open
at the end of the wash cycle, you did good. If not you have to reinsert the spring properly or buy a new spring if you've damaged the old one.

Good luck.,

RBM

The soap dispenser door would not open

  • Customer: David from Elgin, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I used a torx driver to remove the seven screws holding the inside door panel in place. Flipping it over exposed the dispenser mechanism. There were two hex nut screws holding the whole assembly in place and two wires attached to the wax motor. As an afterthought I had ordered the sealing grommet for the latch, and as it turned out, the main problem with the sticking latch was that the grommet had worn out and allowed the hard soapy water to leak into the slider assembly and build up a hard crusty residue that had helped to ware out the old wax motor. After completely disassembling all of the parts, I scrubbed the residue out of the housing, replaced the slider, latch, spring, and grommet. Next I snapped the new wax motor into place and connected the two wires. The whole thing went back in place and the two hex screws went back to hold it all together. Finally, the seven torx screws went back to put the door back together. The whole repair went without a hitch.

Racks were rusting, pieces braking off and rubber coating was peeling.

  • Customer: Lora from Plover, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
Was extremely easy to remove that existing rackings(upper and lower), install the new racks and snap in the new spray tower. It now looks like we have a new dishwasher. We are hoping that it will last another 10+ years.
We will recommend your site to friends.

wheel axle broke on one of the 4 wheels that supports the top rack

  • Customer: Helen from Camas, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

leaking door- Dispenser Door Latch Grommet

  • Customer: Peter from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.
All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 850