Models > MDB7100AWB > Instructions

MDB7100AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7100AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 850
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REPLACED RACKS, LOWER RACK HAS DESIGN FLAW

  • Customer: GREG from Castle Rock CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced upper and lower racks. The new lower rack has a design flaw: it has 3 wheels on each side, but should have 4 wheels on each side. When you pull out the bottom rack, the last set of wheels drop down into the open space where the door hinges to the cabinet, causing the dishes to bounce and shake around. Then when you push rack in, you have to lift it back up onto the tracks made for the wheels to roll on. You can't pull the bottom rack out far enough to access the back of the rack very well.

the soap dispenser door broke off, I lost the pins and the spring.

  • Customer: Bonnie from South Orange NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

Water leak from Bottom of Float Assembly

  • Customer: Michael from Cheshire CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Door leak and leak on inlet valve

  • Customer: April from Valdosta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the door latch grommet just as everyone else has described on this site. It was pretty easy. I was amazed that such a little piece of rubber can let so much water get by. The inlet valve was not too bad either. Take the two bolts out that hold the bracket to the dishwasher. Remove the rubber hose on the back side and take loose the two electrical connections. My water line was long enough to pull it out in front of the dishwasher. Then I took the water line loose and removed the fitting. Installed the new one in reverse order of what I just described. These items took care of the bulk of the leaking problem. But I am in the process of ordering a new door seal which I hope resolves the rest of the issue. Also make sure you check the upper and lower control arms to make sure the spray holes are free of debris. This dishwasher was full of pieces of clear plastic that caused the spray arms to spray indirectly and towards the cracks of the doors.

leaking door- Dispenser Door Latch Grommet

  • Customer: Peter from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.

I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.

Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.

Made noise like something was bouncing around in the spray arm.

  • Customer: Margaret from Unionville CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

dishwasher door leaking

  • Customer: JoAnn from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

Leaks out and below the front door

  • Customer: John Todd from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Close door, turn on dishwasher, walk away. 5 to 10 min later dishwasher not running. Push in at the door latch and dishwasher would start back up.

  • Customer: Allan from East Bernard TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the inner door panel-Removed the black cowling covering the timer and wires.
Removed the swicth assembly and installed new part.
Reassembled dishwasher.

I checked the operation of the two switches. One switch did not click, when button was pushed, as cleanly as the other. There was a bit of delay and play in the button when depressed, even sticking a bit.

Grinding noise/dishes not washing properly. Soap not dissolving.

  • Customer: Eric from Gualala CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Other parts used:
Discharge Housing Assembly (#11)
Impeller Assembly (Wash Impeller) (#14)
O-Ring (#37)
Upper Discharge Housing Gasket (#38)

Removed upper and lower washing baskets.

Pulled off Upper Spray Arm (#33). It pulls off easily by hand. No tools required. Replaced with new Upper Spray Arm (#33) and Snap Spray Retainer (#31).

Removed Large Spray Arm Cap(#34,)which has a right hand thread. This allowed me to take the Lower Spray Arm(#2)off.
Removed Filter Guard (#36).

Next I removed the 6 screws from the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4) with a Torx screwdriver. Removed Lower Spray Arm Seal(#3), Pump House Filter (#6)(which I cleaned), Assembly, Rinse Arm (#7) Jump Up Nozzle (#1). Unscrewed Discharge Housing Nut(#8) by hand. Removed Support, Wash Arm (#9). This allowed me to remove the three screws holding the Discharge Housing Assembly(#11)with a 5/16th nut driver. Next I removed the Impeller Screw (#12) with a 5/16th nut driver. You must hold the Impeller Assembly (#14) firmly while loosening the nut. Removed Impeller Assembly (#12) and Plate, Suction (#15). Cleaned out area of debris,lint, etc. Put back old Plate, Suction (#15) and replaced Impeller Assembly (#14) with new part. Replaced Upper Housing Gasket and Discharge Housing Assembly with new parts. Put back all parts in the reverse order I removed them replacing the O-Ring (#37) with a new part. This O-Ring goes in the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4).

After completely assembled it ran as good as new!

Leak under dishwasher wash and rince

  • Customer: Richard from Edison NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

Loud grinding noise when dishwasher was draining

  • Customer: Joann from Oakland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. Print out the "pump and motor" exploded diagram and label the numbered parts down to #11 (discharge housing assembly).

2. Unscrew the "lower spray arm cap" (#34) by hand (it just twists off), remove the "jump up nozzle" (#1), and lift the "lower spray arm" (#2) and filter guard" (#36) out together.

3. With a torx screw driver, remove the screws holding the "pump cover and secondary filter assembly" (#4), taking note how the assembly was positioned. Be careful not to lose the two plastic "lower spray arm seals".

4. Lift out the "pump housing filter" (#6) and "rinse arm assembly" (#7).

5. With a 5/16 wrench, remove the bolts holding the "discharge housing assembly" (#11). You will likely find a plastic disk just sitting there under the discharge housing assembly. This is the source of your problem. It is the lower plate that has worn loose from the rest of the assembly and the noise is from it being ground by the impeller below.

6. The simplest fix is to order a new "discharge housing assembly" along with gaskets #37 - O-ring (for "pump cover in step #3. Mine was missing.) and #38 - "upper discharge housing gasket. Three parts to order and save your exploded diagram for when you put it back together.

7. Remove the "discharge housing nut" at the top of the old discharge assembly, lift off the "wash arm support", and put both on the new discharge assembly.

8. Insert new seals where they belong and reassemble the dishwasher in reverse order.

Both racks were rusted

  • Customer: John from Grahamsville NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Both racks are just roll out & roll new racks back in, no tools. Racks came in just 2 days, one was damaged in transit. Called to advise PartSelect of the problem. replacement rack was here within 2 days.
Great service. Jack

original basket fell apart

  • Customer: D from Villas NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Leak around door

  • Customer: RON from MOUNT AIRY MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD
All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
106-120 of 850