Models > MDB7100AWB > Instructions

MDB7100AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB7100AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
91-105 of 850
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I accientally busted the old rinse arm, while I was trying to put in the filterguard with bottom spray arm jet

  • Customer: mary from sturgis MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

Leaking lower inner door foam seal. Float leaking

  • Customer: Ronald from Seekonk MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

water leaked through front vent

  • Customer: mark from ardmore OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Dishes were not getting totally clean.

  • Customer: Dennis from Liberty MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Water leaking around the Inlet injector on side of dishwasher.

  • Customer: Juli from Grangeville ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

THE SPRAY DIVERTER ASSEMBLY CAME OFF AND FELL ON THE HEATING ELEMENT AND MELTED.

  • Customer: JEFFREY from WAVELAND MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
FIRST I INSTALLED THE SPRAY DIVERTER,THEN I INSTALLED THE DISCHARGE HOUSING NUT AND TIGHTENED IT DOWN. LAST I SNAPPED ON THE SPRAY DIVERTER CAP.

Replace lower dish rack as orignal was corroded and the holders were rotted

  • Customer: Geoffrey from Shrewsbury MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Heard noise shorty after starting to run. Seemed to get worse at times in short time frame

  • Customer: Robert from Tabernacle NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Located circuit breaker for dishwasher and turned off breaker to secure power going to unit. Removed water spray bar arm inside dishwasher basin by unscrewing center nut and unclipping tabs against arm. Removed sheet metal access panels on bottom front of unit. Removed two individual plug in wires to temperature thermister. Removed 4 conductor plug wiring going to motor. Removed ground wire going to motor frame. Located plastic handle which cam locks motor / pump assembly into place. Pulled handle down gently to unlock from detent and turned clockwise to release pressure on assembly. Removed motor / pump assembly from dishwasher enclosure. Installed all new parts purchased as listed above utilizing parts breakdown aquired from PartSelect.com. Reinstalled motor / pump assembly in reverse order as listed above. Tested and ran unit with no problems. Thank You PartSelect.com, Robert.

Dishwasher would stop in the middle of a wash cycle

  • Customer: David from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.

Not washing properly. No water shooting through the jets

  • Customer: Manfredo from Palm Beach Gardens FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It takes about 5 min. to disassembled the lower jet system. As you disassemble, make sure you clean all the filters, and asses the integrity of the filters. If they are broken, you need to replace. Once you get to the impeller, you know it is broken because the lower part is loose. To replace you need to firmly hold the impeller as you unscrew the top screw. If the housing gasket is broken or too loose, replace. Otherwise you will have leak. Refer to your models diagram for proper assembly.

Water leaking out the right side bottom of door.

  • Customer: Thomas from Oneida NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy to do. Used needle nose pliers just to get a first grip on the door gasket and then pulled it completely out. Pulled up the Water Deflectors by hand. Cleaned the gasket trough with a soft cloth, warm water and dishwashing detergent. Rinsed. Then simply pushed the gasket into the trough, lightly tapping into place, then pushed on the water deflectors, and no more leak!

Noise when washing or draining

  • Customer: Daryl from Turlock CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Remove bottom rack. Unscrew the retaining ring on the wash arm, remove along with wash nozzle. Unscrew the eight retaining screws on the filter cover and remove (be carefull not to lose the two plastic bushings). Pick off and set aside the wash fan. Remove the six retaining bolts on the discharge housing. Pull up and remove the discharge housing. Remove the gasket (buy a new one, cheap and easier) with small screwdriver. Push gasket into new assembly. Under plastic nut with pliers and take off the plastic bushing that the wash arm rides on. Install new housing assembly with the parts that was taken off in the reverse order. Be carfull when installing the filter cover to make sure the drain outlet is aligned or mated to drain. Gently push down until the filter in down and continue reassembly.


(PS: Never use Sears parts, they extrembly slow as well unable to deliver on time).
Wash your dishes

Leaks out and below the front door

  • Customer: John Todd from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Leaking from the dishwasher on left side

  • Customer: Theresa from Zimmerman MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

Leak around door

  • Customer: RON from MOUNT AIRY MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD
All Instructions for the MDB7100AWB
91-105 of 850