Models > MDB6601AWW > Instructions

MDB6601AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB6601AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB6601AWW
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the bottom dishrack beginning to rust

  • Customer: margaret from san diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
the new dishrack fit right in immediately with no tools needed. Delivery was prompt

Dishwasher would fill properly but when wash cycle would start you could not hear any water spraying.

  • Customer: Timothy from Trevor WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

Broken lower rack adjuster

  • Customer: Robert from Middletown OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
This is a very common problem with this model. However, in addition to this part, you also need the following part numbers (which are not listed for this model):
PS920544 - Lever Adjuster
PS893981 - Cover, Rack Adjuster

The updated RACK ADJUSTER ASSY part did not match up to the other parts in my dishwasher. But, after I found a diagram for another dishwasher model that showed the above two parts as well, I ordered them in hopes that they would work for mine. They worked like a charm, and the design of the new updated part is much better than the original part (which, if you take a look at epinions.com, breaks on just about every machine).

I hope this helps someone out ... I was close to ditching our 1.5 year old dishwasher and buying a new one!

washer stopped working.

  • Customer: Nick from Fenton MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws on the interior of the door. Lift panel up and remove two wire clips, lift panel completely off. Unscrew one screw on the bottom of control box and remove cover. Unplug all wires. Push retaining tabs out from inside the box and lift the control board out. Install new control board by sticking back end in first,then snap into place. Finish by installing everything in reverse order. Done.

The dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: Brian from Keokuk IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

silverware basket broken - replaced with new one

  • Customer: Linda from Owasso OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.

  • Customer: George from Andover KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

The basket in our dishwasher had many broken parts on the bottom and the silverware kept falling through

  • Customer: Marge from Cranford NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

Latch Handle was broken from inside

  • Customer: Richard from Franklin PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).
2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.
3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)
4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)
NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together.
5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.
NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.
6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.
7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).
8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.

grinding noise during cycle

  • Customer: rich from liberty twp OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

Broken door latch

  • Customer: Leonard from Plant City FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The repair stories on PartSelect.com told me exactly what to do.

First, I checked the inside of the door and confirmed that the inside panel of the door was held in place with about 10 torx screws.

Second, I went out and bought a set of torx screwdrivers.

Third, I TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER AT THE BREAKER BOX! Safety first!

Fourth, I removed the screws and gently lifted the inside panel of the door, and then gently lifted the broken door latch assembly out of its slot. (There were no more screws to remove, because the latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws.) Two sets of wires, one white and the other black, were connected to the latch assembly by plug-in connectors.

Fifth, I unplugged the wires from the broken latch assembly. The clips in the plug were very tight, so I used a dishtowel to hold onto the latch assembly. I found that gave me a better grip.

Sixth, I plugged the wires onto the new latch assembly, and then slipped the latch assembly back into the slot.

Seventh, I replaced the inside door panel, and replaced in the 10 torx screws.

Finally, I turned on the power at the breaker box, closed the door, and turned on the dishwasher. It ran perfectly!

I would like tyo add that I had ordered an unnecessary part by mistake. I called the return number, and the person who answered was extremely helpful. She gave me the return authorization number and I put the part in the mail. Ten days later, I received an email from PartSelect.com confirming that the part had arrived and that my account had been credited.

The entire process was easy and pleasant. Anybody can do this! Just make sure to shut off the power at the breaker box before you start on the job.

Water leaking from bottom of dishwasher at motor.

  • Customer: Jack from Lee's Summit MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Darrell from Snellville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

Door leaks

  • Customer: ROY from SUFFOLK VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.
All Instructions for the MDB6601AWW
31-45 of 908