MDB6601AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Upper dish rack with dish / glass fold away tine has two broken latches, this situation is causing instability. Went to partselect for schematic and found what looked like the necessary replacement latch/s on print and ordered all latches. Received parts only to find they were the wrong ones. Evidently they are the parts for the bottom dish / glass fold away tine. Removed upper tine and still looking for the actual replacement parts on the schematic with no luck.

1st: Unscrewed the inside of the door (actually hex screwdriver needed).
2nd: Removed broken part (one side of handle latch (which is plastic) was broken.
3rd. Had to disconnect two electrodes that were attached to the part that held the handle (there are two small prongs that you need to push back to remove these)
4th. In order to place the handle on the groove, you need to pull apart the bottom of the housing piece (it looks like it would be a hinge, but you just pull it apart)
NOTE: Make sure you have another person hold the top portion when you pull this apart because it has a spring and will come completly apart. This happened to us and it was a pain to get it back together.
5th: place the smaller "clamps" plastic pieces in the grove and then it should slide down into the groove, which will also seat the outer "plastic clamps" into the grooves.
NOTE: It seems like the repair part was built to reinforce this part of the handle, since this was the part that broke before. It is now reinforced with a little metal rod on each side.
6th: After all that, you need to place the two electrodes back on the piece.
7th: Hold it in place and put the inside of the door back on (start a screw on one side and then go to the opposite side. This will help to align the screw holes).
8th: After I put it all back together, I turned it on to make sure it worked ok.

1st, shut off the breaker for the dishwasher.
2nd, opened the door and removed all of the torx screws holding inner door to outer door.
3rd, placed inner door up and held it out of the way (closed inner door through/around latch tab and folded up a piece of paper, threaded it through latch tab hole and placed a small piece of masking tape around the paper to hold door out of the way - this made the entire job easier, because you do not need to hold the door out of the way anymore).
4th, removed broken latch/handle assembly (carefully - it is always a good idea to collect/save broken pieces to piece together the "puzzle" in case you need to improvise. Removing the metal clip attachments is tough, but much easier now that the inner door is secured out of the way. They cannot simply be pulled straight out. You should use a gentle back and forth wiggle motion in a T-shape. Meaning, wiggle back and forth 1-way, and then the other way (perpendicular to the first way) - this should get them separated. Be patient with this procedure - it will work fine and you won't get frustrated.
5th, look at the situation to determine exactly what went wrong/broke specifically (I was extra screwed, because 1/2 of each of the "U" shaped tabs that hold each side of latch assembly in place were broken - as well as the tabs on the latch assembly. These U-shaped tabs were/are actually part of the plastic outer door. Specifically, they are on the inner side of the plastic control panel display. I could have replaced this part too, but I was trying to do as inexpensive a repair as possible.
6th, So - I found 2 nut/bolts in my toolbox (probably 1/8" in diameter - 3/4" in length - I used flat head. Be careful in your selection of bolt length - the least amount sticking out the front of the dishwasher - the better). I drilled 2 holes - in the exact location where these inner door tabs broke off - and entirely through to the outside of the outer door - yes, all the way through. We are talking about drilling through less than 1/4" of plastic - simple. I made sure that I would not be drilling through any lighting display or really important pieces. The holes ended up being situated in plain plastic locations - not interfering with any functions. Be careful in your selection of drill bit size - you want the bolt to fit through the hole obviously, but you don't want the bolt to have too much wiggle room - because it will be functioning as your new tab - that should have as much structural integrity. So, I recommend drilling a hole that is just big enough that you have to use a screwdriver to thread the bolt into the hole.
7th - I connected the clips into the new latch assembly - somewhat easier than separating the old one.
8th - I placed the new latch/handle assembly into its proper location (resting on the 1/2 mounting tabs that remained on the inner door).
9th - I then used a small flat screwdriver to thread the 2 screws in place (yes, screw head on the inside of the door - to function as a tab - the edge of the screw head will hold down on the latch tab ends). I had to tilt the latch assembly forward, to allow just enough clearance to get my small, thin flat head screwdriver in there (on a slight angle, but that's ok). Thread it through until it gently snugs down onto the latch tab.
***You can do better than I did if you want to go the extra mile*** Find a small, thin piece of sheet metal or plastic. Drill a hole just big enough for the bolt threads to slide through. This sheet should be cut to the following specs: a rectangular shape just big enough to span across the tab you made with the bolt - onto the inner door tab that it still not broken (the drilled hole to fit the bolt threads through on one end). It is added structural integrity to even better hold the new latch assembly in place. Think of it as a bridge that spans the tops of the U-tabs.
10th - After screwing the bolts through until just enough to snug down on the latch assem

This repair was very easy. First, I opened the dishwasher, removed the screws (they are torx) and removed the old handle assembly. I removed the inner liner from the door, and to do that I had to pull out the electrical wires. I turned off the power, always a good idea. I should have marked the polarity on the plugs before removing them, since you can put them back on wrong (and I did).

I also used caulk to hold the assembly on the bottom, since the cheap plastic molded forks holding the assembly on had broken. Most of the holding force comes from screws at the top. The caulk provides just a little adhesion, and will be easy to remove if the handle should need to be removed again--which I consider unlikely.

First I flipped the breaker to the dishwasher's outlet since I would need to work around the power supply. Then I removed the bolts that held the door panel in place. I had to carefully push it back because of the power supply wires, but then I put my hand in between the sides of the door and unplugged it so my daughter could hold back the inside part of the door. Next I removed the bolts holding the power supply in place and pulled out the flexible circuit board that connected the power supply to the control panel and moved the power supply to the side. The control panel also had a few bolts which, once removed, allowed the control panel to be removed completely from the door. I then slipped the new one in place and reversed my steps. After flipping the breaker I ran the dishwasher - and it now works as well as when I first purchased it!

The repair is very simple (I had repaired the left side last year), so I knew how to replace the assembly part. I removed the rack by removing the clips on the runner ends. Then I unscrewed the 3 screws holding the assembly to the rack, removed the adjuster lever and removed the broken part (the roller cracked around the screw) the replacement part now is a ratchet instead of a screw. I popped in the new part and put the lever back in place, put the screws back in and placed the rack back on the runner and re-inserted the runner clips. I will never buy another maytag--supposedly a high end unit that we purchased for a hefty price tag but I have done nothing but replace parts. Thank goodness for Parts Select--I find my part from the diagrams, place my order and in just a couple of days I have the part. Best of all no $80 fee just to diagnose the problem and then labor costs on top of marked-up of parts prices. I love Parts Select!!
Thank-you.

It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

i ordered the parts on sunday night at about 9pm. the parts arrived on tuesday afternoon! i removed the screws on the inside of the door, then removed the latch assembly and unplugged the two connectors. i then plugged in the new latch assembly and replaced the screws. i accidentally ordered two parts i did not need and received an email twenty minutes after i asked how to return the unneeded parts descibing the return process. i have already told three people how awesome your company is. anytime i need appliance parts i won't look anywhere else. you have a customer for life!! thanks for everything.

This was a very easy repair. Before I did anything, I flipped the breaker for the dishwasher and tried to turn the dishwasher on to make sure it had no power going to it. Once I was certain the power was off I removed the hex screws (there are 11) on the inside of the door panel using the hex screwdriver. Lifting and holding the inside panel up, I then used the pliers to pry the old latch assembly out of its metal prongs. Then I replaced the old latch assembly with the new one, pushing the metal prongs (by hand) into the slits of the new latch assembly. Last, I lined everything up and screwed the door panel back in place. I flipped the breaker back on and activated my child lock to make sure I had power. The handle worked perfectly. Quick and easy fix!
I ordered the part with 3-5 day delivery and actually received it in 2 days! I'm extremely pleased with my partselect.com experience and highly recommend using them for all your appliance parts needs!

Door gasket was easy out and in using the white mark on the seal to line it up with the center. The latch came with the handle so I returned the extra latch assembly that I ordered. Super easy to install. Removed door screws, carefully lifted and set aside inside of door leaving wires attached. Reved wire from latchtch switches, attached wires to new latch, put in postion and reassembled.

I could not reach the heater element nuts from under the dishwasher so had to pull out the dishwasher. I removed the screws around the front of the dishwasher and pulled it about half way out before the water inlet pipe and the electrical wires stopped me. I shut off the water, unhooked the copper pipe, and unhooked the electrical wires (shut off circuit breaker first). Pulled the dishwaser out so I could remove the element nuts and wires to the element. Removed the old element and installed the new one - the old nuts would not fit. I went to a local appliance parts store and found that my element is no longer made. I had the correct replacement element but you need to order the nuts also. Luckily, the local store had a small brass nut that worked. Reattached the electrical wires to the element, pushed the dishwasher half way in, reattached the water inlet and electrical wires, pushed the dishwasher all the way in and scewed back into the cabinets. All is well now and the dishwasher is working much better.

First I placed a cutting board under the rack to hold it in place while I took the five screws out of the bracket holding the T shaped bracket in place. I then just switched out the old for the new and guided the bracket into the side mounting piece and placed the end cap back on. Double checked the tightness of the screws and it was done.

Ist Repaired a hole in a rubber hose under the sink. 2nd Removed the 10 foot drainage hose with a regular screw driver (1 clamp at each end of the hose).
3rd Removed the insulation and replaced with the new after disinfecting the entire top and sides of the dishwasher with bleach. This eliminated all bad odor etc. only had to remove 2 plastic brads, 1 on each side of the unit.

Done and no leaks.

The spring mechanism is on the side, so you have to pull the dishwasher out onto the floor. To do that, you have to remove the floor molding (preferably without breaking it) and remove the base coverings (painted metal plates on the bottom of the washer. Unscrew the side gasket plates on the side of the dishwasher (just inside of the door) where it attaches to the cabinet and the screws in the braces at the top (inside the door) where it attaches to the counter top. Now you will be able to slide the washer forward to look at the sides where the door springs are. Depending on the floor, you may have to raise the washer's front feet. They screw up. As you pull the washer forward be careful to not mess up the insulation which drapes over the top and sides. You only need to come out 1/3 of the way to see the sides where there is a plastic wheel at the forward bottom corner. As you move the door up and down you can see the hook where the cable goes and further up the side you can see several notches where the spring goes. Hook the cable and bring it around the wheel and attach it to the spring. To reinstall, just follow these directions backwards. Good luck.

First I read all the reports for not cleaning properly already listed on this site. I had to replace the docking station with flappers. When I removed the station I lost the flappers down the water delivery tube just like Jon said I would in his repair post so I removed the water distribution assembly fished out the old flappers and snapped in the new.
But then I figured I might as well check out the accumulator while I was in the tub anyway - I had read that you need Torx screwdriver bit, which I had, undid the screws, pulled out the accumulator screen which was about 80% clogged, discovered I need a new chopper blade and my impeller is disintegrating, put it back together and lost ten minutes looking for the three screws I had incorrectly put in too soon, and now it is cleaning a packed full load like it was supposed to do.
**I love this site - I went to the virtual repairman and it listed every problem I had with this appliance in the order they happened (door latch broke years ago). - I think I am going to look up stuff that I own so I will know ahead what could go wrong with them.

And absolutely NO DUCT TAPE was used in this repair.