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MDB6000AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB6000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB6000AWW
46-60 of 753
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Door was leaking badly

  • Customer: Aimee from Mount Pleasant, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

Dishwasher would not work unless the door was held in with pressure.

  • Customer: Leonard from South Huntington, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws on the inside of the door. Removed the cover and changed door switch and holder and put the new one in. Replaced the cover
all in less than half an hour.

Water leaking out of bottom of door when running

  • Customer: Wayne from Moreno Valley, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing bottom spray arm to fix leaky door:

To fix the leak in the door it is necessary to replace the bottom spray arm. This is because when the lower spary arm fails it gets small splits which, when spraying, send water up into the door vent and inside the door. It then leaks out the bottom of the door to drain.

1. Take out he bottom dish rack.

2. Locate plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) on lower spray arm (see parts diagram).

3. Remove plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) by hand - it twists counter clockwise to loosen.

4. There will be a small piece (jump-up nozzle) under the plastic nut (lower spary arm cap). Note how it was situated. Place it aside with the lower spary arm cap - you'll need them both during reassembly.

5. Pull off lower spary arm and filter guard (they are attached to each other).

6. Note how the lower spray arm was attached to the filter guard. The top and bottom of the lower spray arm are not the same.

7. Unsnap lower spray arm from filter guard by pulling up on one side and then the other to removed it from the plastic clips on the filter guard.

8. Install the new lower spray arm, by snaping it into the plastic retainers on the filter guard, one side at a time. Make sure you installed it with the correct side up.

9. Remove the two metal pieces (Radient Shield)from each end of the old lower spray arm and place the on the new lower spray arm. A small flat head screwdriver is useful to assist in removing them from the old arm.

9. Place the assembly (lower spray arm and filter guard) back onto the dishwasher and place the jump-up nozzle back into position.

8. Attach the palstic nut (lower spray arm cap) and tighten clockwise until secure. Don't over tighten.

9. Slide the bottom dish rack back into position.

This will fix the problem of the leaky door. I went ahead and replaced the upeer spray arm at the same time since it was a connvient time to do so.
If you wish to do so read on.

Replacing upper spray arm.

1. Remove the bottom dish rack.

2. You can remove the top dish rack, but you don't need to.

3. Examine where the upper spray arm is attached to the dishwasher. You will see three parts. The one on the spary arm center - toward the inside of the dishwasher is the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER. Next is the UPPER SPRAY ARM itself. Next, between the UPPERT SPRAY ARM and the body of the dishwasher is the SNAP OUTLET NUT.

4. Remove the SNAP OUTLET NUT by turing it counter clockwise (remember its upside down so you have to be looking up at it to determine which way is counter clockwise). I had to use a screwdriver blade and the palm of my hand to get it to loosen - I set the blade against one of the Knurls on the nut and gave it a tap with the palm of my hand).

5. The whole assembly will drop down. Remove it from the dishwasher. Note the way the UPPER SPRAY ARM is positioned; as the two sides are different.

6. With a pair of needle nose pliers compress the wings of the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER and remove it from the assembly. The assembly is now in three pieces.

7. Replace the old UPPER SPRAY ARM with the new one - again make sure it is in correctrly, as there is a top and bottom to the spary arm.

8. Insert the the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER into the new UPPER SPRAY ARM and into the SNAP OUTLET NUT. Place the assembly back into the dishwasher by tightening down the SNAP OUTLET NUT - turning it clockwise to tighten.

9. Replace the uppper dish rack if you removed it.

10. Repalce the lower dish rack.

Dishwasher would not run, unless door held shut by hand

  • Customer: Thomas from Medford, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
1 - Turned off the power
2 - Loosened screws on inside door panel
3 - Removed panel (still attached by ground wire)
4 - Removed black swtich cover
5 - Removed screws holding latch assembly
6 - Dropped in new latch
7 - Pulled away plastic switch holder, carefully
8 - Examined black micro switches (Land R); noticed right switch button defective
9 - Removed wires (2) from clips on right switch
10 - Pulled out switch (holding up plastic arm)
11 - Replaced defective switch from those in dorr switch assembly (I did not replace the plastic assembly itself, since the old one was OK, but you could if you wanted to be punctilious about it.
12 - Screwed assembly back in position
13 - Put on black cover again
14 - put on inner plastic door panel
15 - Screwed panel back
16 - Ran a load of dishes - perfect!

Not enough water pressure to wash soap out of dispenser

  • Customer: Duane from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Our first effort was to replace the lower washer arm that had splits in the sides of this plastic part. While this increased the water pressure in the wash cycle some it was not enough to adequately wash the dishes. We read that someone else had to clean out the filter which was below the lower washer arm assembly. Thus, we took off the loweer arm assembly by screwing off the hold down assembly in the middle of the arm. We then took off the pump cover by removing the 6 screws that hold it in place with a #3 metric allen wrench. When we took of the cover we could see that the pump filter was so covered with deposits that it was not letting the water through to the pump. Rather than spend hours trying to clean the filter and pump cover we decided it was easier to repalce them. Thus, we ordered the parts and replaced them. The dishwaster is now working fine. We appreciated the information that others had shared that helped us find and fix the problem.

Pump gasket had deteriorated with age and causing odors.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Brooks, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




I

Racks were rusted and the tines were breaking off

  • Customer: Loraine from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The bottom rack was easiest, just picked it up out of the dishwasher and moved the sprayer and the silverware holder from the old rack to the new rack and set it back in the dishwasher. The top rack was a little tricky, it took a minute to figure out to remove the little end-caps on the runners and then it just slid out. Slid the new one in, replaced the caps and moved the upper rack basket. It took less than 15 minutes to fix and now it's like a brand new dishwasher!

silverware basket broken - replaced with new one

  • Customer: Linda from Owasso, OK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

The basket in our dishwasher had many broken parts on the bottom and the silverware kept falling through

  • Customer: Marge from Cranford, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
We were happy to find the basket we needed listed on your website, even after we could not find it on the Maytag site. It was perfect. I can't believe we lasted almost 2 years with the broken basket we had.

diswasher would not drain

  • Customer: Larry from Arlington, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
1) turned off power to dishwasher
2) removed each piece of pump assembly (one at a time) from inside the dishwasher. I had no repair manual and didn't know that by rotating the lock lever under the dishwasher, I could have easily removed the entire pump assembly as a unit.
3) Reassmebled the pump assembly using new parts and installed in dishwasher.
4) Reconnected hoses and electrical connection
5) Turned power back on
6) Washed dishes... it's as good as new!!!!

Water was pouring out of dishwasher door

  • Customer: Walt from Woodbridge, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I googled the simptoms online, and found that the most common cause for a door leak was the door seal. I purchased the seal online from PartSelect.com. Two days later, the part arrived. I pulled out the old seal and pushed in the new one. No tools required. That fixed the problem. While looking at the parts diagram, I noticed that my dishwasher didn't have the water deflectors installed. I don't know if they were ever there. They were cheap, so I ordered them online and slid them into place in less than 10 seconds. Again, no tools required. Dishwasher runs great, no leaks.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

No water in the washer barrel

  • Customer: Terry from Great Falls, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Diagnosed potential problem from scematic diagram found at Parts Select .Com by entering model #. It was very likely the inlet water solenoid. Tear down was simple: Turn off water, disconnect water lines to and from solenoid, disconnect two electric terminals and remove part by removing two screws from dishwasher chasis. Before you buy the new solenoid, unscrew the water inlet elbow from solenoid and check the filter/screen inside the solenoid to make sure it isn't clogged. Assuming it's not, order the replacement part and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to use plumber's tape on screw connections to make sure there are no leaks..... Also for ease of acces, you'll need to turn the dishwaher down on it's front. Put towels down to cushion the front and keep the controls from contact with the floor. Good luck!!

No pressure in Spray Arms, no washing action

  • Customer: Yuriy from Skokie, IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The hardes part was to remove the retaning nut (#34 on the diagram). There isn't enough grab on it and it is quite flimzy. Be prepared to butcher it if necessary. I resorted to wedging a screwdriver between the top flange of the nut and the spray arm and that gave me torque I needed to undo it. Luckily, the nut survived and could be reused.
Once the nut is off, everything else is pretty straightforward, just pay attention what goes after what and in what orientation (take notes if you must, however, I did not and got away with it). My machine has not been serviced in years and there was calcium deposits everywhere. If your machine is just as bad as mine, I strongly suggest to remove everything that can be removed and give it a nice vinegar bath or use other products designed for calcium removal (ask your wife what she is cleaning the bathroom with, it will most likely do). Bottom line, the cleaner the parts are, the better it will pump.
In my case, it was the calcium that eventually killed the impeller #14 and made it spin on the shaft (no pumping therefore).
Inspect all the parts for heat / wear damage so you put one order for everything you might need.
Secondly, the screw #12 that holds the impeller #14 on the shaft is a tiny screw and it is originally secured with a threadlocker. Make sure that the internal thread in the shaft and the screw are absolutely dry before applying loctite.
Thirdly, there is a plastic ball that sits in the cavity in one of the disk-like part (not shown on the diagram). Do not loose it and make sure it is put back.
That's pretty much it. Once properly cleaned and repaired, the machine washed like brand new. Pretty good for less than $50 investment in parts and a week downtime. . .

heating element split open

  • Customer: Hadley from De Leon, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the bottom cover off and pulled off 2 wires and removed 2 plastic nuts. I removed the old part and removed the O rings from the old part and installed the new heating element. Replaced the plastic nuts and the two wires. It was very simple. The hardest part was lying on my back to get to the wires and nuts.
All Instructions for the MDB6000AWW
46-60 of 753