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Models > MDB5600AWB > Instructions

MDB5600AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB5600AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB5600AWB
106-120 of 952
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Broken basket

  • Customer: John from Winsted, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Two day service...can't get better than that!

Soap dish full of west soap, dishes not clean: Isolated to stripped pump shaft, foreign object jammed chopper

  • Customer: Tom from Centreville, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Troubleshooting: Noted soap dispenser full of apparently wetted soap, drying cycle dried to brick-like mess. Dishes full of soap particles, not clean. Water through floor and basement ceiling.

Pulled all racks (note arrows on ends of rack supports), used vice grips to remove bottom spray arm (better to use washcloth around little knob to protect from vice grips), unscrewed all torx fasteners to get assembly out. Had to carefully maneuver pump housing out since it attached to water distribution assy. Found stripped sleeve, but didn't understand function until I saw similar post on this site (Thanks!). Ordered seal and chopper kit, paid extra for "2 day" delivery and rx the next week due to holiday weekend (what's up with that? I ordered a linksys security camera on saturday and rx on Sunday from "Lasership"). Followed included instructions - worked fine. Note assembly order of pump with respect to water distribution assembly - I assembled and dissassembled twice due to forgetting interference.

Needed a replacement part

  • Customer: Erik from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
FIrst I went to your web site; located the part on the easy to read diagram. Next I ordered the part. When the part came to the house (2-3 days), I opened the box and then the packaging, I screwed the part in and Wala! Boom! Bang! She was fixed!

All kidding aside. The part order was quick to locate, quick to ship and one of the easiest companies to deal with. I will return on my next dyi project.

The dishes in the dishwasher weren't getting clean. I decided it would be cheaper to replace the clogged wash arm myself, before calling a repairman.

  • Customer: Georganne from Carolina Beach, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the screw, then I took off the old wash arm, then I replaced the wash arm, and replaced the screw. Nothing could be easier!

The striker broke when repairing something else.

  • Customer: Stephen from Kopperl, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the machine from under the counter top and the striker is right in front just under the insulation. I pullled the insulation back just a little and screwed down the new striker plate. That's all. I moved the machine back uinder the counter and secured it. Done!

rinse dispenser was clogged and unusable.

  • Customer: Stuart from Rockaway, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I remove the inner door panel, disconnected two quick release connectors, unscrewed the old part from the inner panel and installed the new one.

The new part arrived quickly and was the perfect match.

broken chopper

  • Customer: Alain from Lake Mills, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Easy to repair and saved us replacing a dishwasher that was pretty new as it was. The dishes weren't getting clean, checked it out and found out the chopper was broken. Works great now with clean dishes.

Latch on soap dispenser door broke

  • Customer: Ronald from Longmont, CO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

The dishwasher got the dishes dirty not clean

  • Customer: Ken from Mapleton, UT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
My married daughter actually did the repair. I removed the plastic assemblies that held the upper cage and upper spray assembly. She unscrewed the screws that held the filter/impeller assembly in place and replaced the old one with the new one. I finished the job by cleaning the interior of the washer and putting everything back together. The dishes are sparkling clean again!

Broken handle

  • Customer: Darryl from Edmonds, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the torx screws halding the inner door panel on. I then seperated the door panel from the door and removed the latch assembly and disconnected the switches from the latch. After installing the switches on the new latch I replaced it between door and inner panel. Finally I replaced the torx screws and was finished.

Dishawasher would not drain

  • Customer: Kevin from Dallas, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I removed screws in trim, kick panel and counter top. Turned off breaker at electric box, Dishwasher slid out easily. diconnected water line; so i could slide entire unit out of cabinet. Laid unit on side and cleaned up the water that leaked out.
Removed the pump with nutdriver, replaced pump and reconnected electric, drain hose and screws.
Replaced unit into cabinet, connected water and turned on electric. no leaks, ran machine in rinse cycle, at time for pump I could hear and feel it was running, but no water. Evidently my original problem was the "air gap" device. I repaced it $4 at Home Depot and it works like a champ.
In hind site, the air gap probably ruined the old pump, so you might want to consider changing it out whenever you change the pump.

Dishwasher Arm Not Spinning

  • Customer: Joseph from Warwick, RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I removed flowplate assembly, chopper assembly, found that the plastic spindle was stripped causing arm not to spin. In the new seal kit, the spindle was made of metal (much better design). I replaced the spindle, chopper, and filter assembly (old one was caked full of gunk). Worked like a charm. A previous post helped me figure out the problem.

Broken latch handle and cracked control panel

  • Customer: John from Harleysville, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I had two problems with the dishwasher. The latch handle was broken and a line crack developed on the control panel just above the handle area.

1. Ordered the Latch Handle (LATCH ASSY (BLACK) MA) (Series 10); Part # PS1559543 from PartSelect. (Maytag’s part number is 99003347). PS1559543 received from PartSelect includes the latch, latch handle, and two switches.
2. Disconnected power to dishwasher. (I put the washer on timer mode; the control panel lighted up; turned off power supply at the circuit breakers box; control panel light was off; confirming that power was cut).
3. Opened the door, removed the torx T-20 screws from the inner panel (I used a cordless drill and one of the star shaped screw tip from a cheap Craftmans screw tips set)
4. The inner panel slid down down enough to expose the latch assembly. Since the latch assembly was held in place by the two of the screws removed, it was now only attached to two sets of wires through the switches on both sides of the latch assembly.
5. The next thing to do was to connecting the wires to the new latch assembly. I chose to use the switches on the old latch assembly. There were plastic hooks holding them in place. The switches readily slid out by slightly push back the hooks. There is a little knob on the switch, and had to be pushed back to slide into the new latch assemble.
6. To fix the line crack, I used a toothpick to apply plastic glue on both sides of the crack. Then lined up the latch assembly with the control panel and the dishwasher’s inner internal panel, put back the two top middle two torx T-20 screw to hold them in place. Excess glue was wiped off with paper towel wet with isopropyl alcohol. This saved me the expense of ~$60 for a new control panel. Don’t use crazy glue, it will discolor the plastic.
7. Put back the screws at four corners, then the rest. I set the clutch of the cordless drill at 2 so that the screws were not over tightened.
8. Let the glue dried overnight. The crack was fixed, the latch assembly works like when the dishwasher was new.

Original part was worn out. It would not turn.

  • Customer: Erik from Doral, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.

Latch wouldn't function

  • Customer: Richard from Jacksonville, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I learned everything I know about the procedure from this site. but here it goes:

Turn off the power at the breaker! If you are like me, you will forget until you are trying to change out the wires and then ZZZTT! you will jump and say somehting your kids should not hear. (like I did).

After forgetting to turn off the power, I unscrewed torx-head screws (its a T-20 driver if you need to buy it --T is for torx and 20 is the size) around inside edge of door to remove the inside door panel. Take care when opening the panel because some wires are still attached to it.

Removed old latch assembly by unplugging it. Normally, the black and white wires would unclip from the assembly, but in my dishwasher, the "quick release" wire connectors going to the latch assembly were not coming apart. The wire connectors themselves were attached to two small switches on the latch body, so I just took the switches and wires off the latch assembly by gently prying the 2 retaining clips away from the switch and they come right off, with the wires still attached. I then removed the switches from the new latch assembly, so I could plug it in to the old wires/switches dangling from my dishwasher. Then I got a mild shock, and sent the kids out of the room.

I was pretty sure there was nothing wrong with those switches--it was pretty obvious that my problem was mechanical, but I saved them just in case. The latch handle itself had broken on one side. Also, upon opening the panel, I also discovered that the latch assembly was no longer securely attached to the control console--the tiny plastic mounts (about 1/16th of an inch wide) that held the latch assembly at the bottom were broken. Surprise surprise.

I took the advice of a poster here to use JB weld to secure the new latch assembly to the console where the flimsy plastic mounts had been. (instead of spending $80 for a new control panel just to get new flimsy mounts).

The latch assembly went right into the old spot. Use a hand driver or set your drill on a low clutch setting so as not to strip the screws going back in--remember, its plastic! The biggest investment here is time--unless you don't have the torx driver.

On a related note, this Maytag is only about 3 years old and already I have had 2 broken rollers on the upper rack and now the latch. I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of 99-cent cabinet knobs that were approximately the same size as the rollers I had to replace. I ground the knobs down to fit in the slide, and then screwed the knobs onto the rack. It took some machining, but it sure beats the $35 (each side!) for the replacement roller mechanism!

Have a great day and I hope this helps someone!
All Instructions for the MDB5600AWB
106-120 of 952