MDB4000AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the screws on the inside of the door. Removed the cover and changed door switch and holder and put the new one in. Replaced the cover
all in less than half an hour.

The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

Replacing bottom spray arm to fix leaky door:

To fix the leak in the door it is necessary to replace the bottom spray arm. This is because when the lower spary arm fails it gets small splits which, when spraying, send water up into the door vent and inside the door. It then leaks out the bottom of the door to drain.

1. Take out he bottom dish rack.

2. Locate plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) on lower spray arm (see parts diagram).

3. Remove plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) by hand - it twists counter clockwise to loosen.

4. There will be a small piece (jump-up nozzle) under the plastic nut (lower spary arm cap). Note how it was situated. Place it aside with the lower spary arm cap - you'll need them both during reassembly.

5. Pull off lower spary arm and filter guard (they are attached to each other).

6. Note how the lower spray arm was attached to the filter guard. The top and bottom of the lower spray arm are not the same.

7. Unsnap lower spray arm from filter guard by pulling up on one side and then the other to removed it from the plastic clips on the filter guard.

8. Install the new lower spray arm, by snaping it into the plastic retainers on the filter guard, one side at a time. Make sure you installed it with the correct side up.

9. Remove the two metal pieces (Radient Shield)from each end of the old lower spray arm and place the on the new lower spray arm. A small flat head screwdriver is useful to assist in removing them from the old arm.

9. Place the assembly (lower spray arm and filter guard) back onto the dishwasher and place the jump-up nozzle back into position.

8. Attach the palstic nut (lower spray arm cap) and tighten clockwise until secure. Don't over tighten.

9. Slide the bottom dish rack back into position.

This will fix the problem of the leaky door. I went ahead and replaced the upeer spray arm at the same time since it was a connvient time to do so.
If you wish to do so read on.

Replacing upper spray arm.

1. Remove the bottom dish rack.

2. You can remove the top dish rack, but you don't need to.

3. Examine where the upper spray arm is attached to the dishwasher. You will see three parts. The one on the spary arm center - toward the inside of the dishwasher is the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER. Next is the UPPER SPRAY ARM itself. Next, between the UPPERT SPRAY ARM and the body of the dishwasher is the SNAP OUTLET NUT.

4. Remove the SNAP OUTLET NUT by turing it counter clockwise (remember its upside down so you have to be looking up at it to determine which way is counter clockwise). I had to use a screwdriver blade and the palm of my hand to get it to loosen - I set the blade against one of the Knurls on the nut and gave it a tap with the palm of my hand).

5. The whole assembly will drop down. Remove it from the dishwasher. Note the way the UPPER SPRAY ARM is positioned; as the two sides are different.

6. With a pair of needle nose pliers compress the wings of the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER and remove it from the assembly. The assembly is now in three pieces.

7. Replace the old UPPER SPRAY ARM with the new one - again make sure it is in correctrly, as there is a top and bottom to the spary arm.

8. Insert the the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER into the new UPPER SPRAY ARM and into the SNAP OUTLET NUT. Place the assembly back into the dishwasher by tightening down the SNAP OUTLET NUT - turning it clockwise to tighten.

9. Replace the uppper dish rack if you removed it.

10. Repalce the lower dish rack.

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




I

Suspecting the problem was a sticky gasket on the old detergent cup lid, I replaced the lid.
First remove the old lid by pushing one of the hinge pins (the one without a spring) out of the cylinder hole in the dishwasher door. Important: before completely removing the lid, note how the spring is installed on the other pin. Then, simply install the new lid and spring and push the non-spring pin back into the cylinder hole in the DW door.
My dishwasher now works fine! :-)

I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

The hardes part was to remove the retaning nut (#34 on the diagram). There isn't enough grab on it and it is quite flimzy. Be prepared to butcher it if necessary. I resorted to wedging a screwdriver between the top flange of the nut and the spray arm and that gave me torque I needed to undo it. Luckily, the nut survived and could be reused.
Once the nut is off, everything else is pretty straightforward, just pay attention what goes after what and in what orientation (take notes if you must, however, I did not and got away with it). My machine has not been serviced in years and there was calcium deposits everywhere. If your machine is just as bad as mine, I strongly suggest to remove everything that can be removed and give it a nice vinegar bath or use other products designed for calcium removal (ask your wife what she is cleaning the bathroom with, it will most likely do). Bottom line, the cleaner the parts are, the better it will pump.
In my case, it was the calcium that eventually killed the impeller #14 and made it spin on the shaft (no pumping therefore).
Inspect all the parts for heat / wear damage so you put one order for everything you might need.
Secondly, the screw #12 that holds the impeller #14 on the shaft is a tiny screw and it is originally secured with a threadlocker. Make sure that the internal thread in the shaft and the screw are absolutely dry before applying loctite.
Thirdly, there is a plastic ball that sits in the cavity in one of the disk-like part (not shown on the diagram). Do not loose it and make sure it is put back.
That's pretty much it. Once properly cleaned and repaired, the machine washed like brand new. Pretty good for less than $50 investment in parts and a week downtime. . .

I took the bottom cover off and pulled off 2 wires and removed 2 plastic nuts. I removed the old part and removed the O rings from the old part and installed the new heating element. Replaced the plastic nuts and the two wires. It was very simple. The hardest part was lying on my back to get to the wires and nuts.

The upper washer arm can be removed by just snapping it out of place. Just take a screw driver and put in underneath the spray arm and pry it out of its socket. It will just snap out its place. Sometimes this retainer will break so make sure you have this retainer before trying to remove the upper spary arm. I removed the spray arm and back flushed it out with a garden hose to get the debri out of the washer arm. The holes are all clean now. Washes much better now. To put in back on just put the washer arm back where it goes and then just snap the clip back in its hole. Pretty easy fix.

Removed old gasket and foam strip. Cleaned area. Installed door gasket. Trimmed foam strip to fit and installed.

Leak has stopped!

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

First I disconnected the dishwasher electric, water supply and discharge hoses. I then pulled the dishwasher out. After opening the door, I removed the retainer clip holding the upper wash arm, then the nut holding the top shower hose in place. Close the door and lean the dishwasher on its side to get at the underside where the other end of the hose is. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the top shower hose. Reassemble everything in reverse order. In hindsight, I didn't need to buy the new hose clamp or the tub top washer (I reused the originals). Good luck!

I removed the seven screws from the back panel of the door (special tool) and seperated the back panel from the front. My wife held the back up and I removed the two wax motors (detergent cup and rinse aid), which were clipped in place. I had turned off power to the dishwasher, so I simply unplugged each wax motor from the wiring harness, plugged the wax motors in and clipped them in place, making sure that the wiring harness was put back in the same place. Then I put the back panel back on the door, turned the power on and tested the repair. The dishwasher worked perfectly. Thanks to PartSelect for helping me solve the problem. The parts arrived in two days!

We simply removed the old gasket which was corroded, cleaned up the hard water buildup, and popped the new gasket into place. The problem was fixed! No more leak!

I took out both wax motors - tried switching the motors on the rinse dispenser and soap dispenser but they were both dead - new motors from partselect arrived fast - simple installation if you have the torx screwdriver for the door inner panel.