Models > MAV7600AWW > Instructions

MAV7600AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAV7600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAV7600AWW
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sneakers broke fins off the agitator

  • Customer: David from Holcombe, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I first grasped the fabric softner dispenser and pulled it up and off agitator. I then removed the bolt from the center of the agitator with a 1/2" socket, 8" extension and ratchet. I grasped the agitator assembly and pulled it up and off. Reversed the procedure to install. The bolt can be started by placing a piece of paper towel over the socket, then inserting the bolt into the socket. It will hold it there while you start the bolt. I also took the opportunity to clean the accumulated soap scum from under the agitator while it was disassembled. An easy fix!!!

Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.

  • Customer: Gary from Sioux City, IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Loud noise during the spin cycle

  • Customer: John M from Saint Paul, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 33 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

Wash cycle failed to start occasionally.

  • Parts Used:
  • CAM
  • Customer: Michael from Harrisburg, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced cam in lid. Simple repair, even a novice could preform.

Water pump failed and was making loud screeching noises. Eventually, it bound up stopping the washer.

  • Customer: Mark from Port Matilda, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.

terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months

  • Customer: stephen from soddy daisy, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

Wife complained the spin dry not so good

  • Customer: Stephen from Tehachapi, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension.

Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero.

Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.

washer wouldn't spin

  • Customer: Elmer from Fort Campbell, KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

Bearings on the water pump self-destructed.

  • Customer: Richard from San Antonio, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

Washing machine sqeeling to a stop after spin cycle

  • Customer: William from Middletown, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

Washer made grinding noise then stopped working.

  • Customer: David from Honesdale, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

Leaking pump hose

  • Customer: Brian from Lynbrook, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I thought I was going to need to replace the leaking washer machine. Water was every where and after checking the main sewer drain was ok I lifted the washer and found the water pouring out the bottom when i put it on.
After finding out how to get the whole top open and the front panel off I was able to locate the source of the water leak on my washer machine. The cause was split in the plastic hose that goes from the tub to the pump. After the new hose arived I was able to replace it within 10 minutes. So far so good. Thank you Part Select.

broken spring in bottom of washing machine

  • Customer: Mike from Rochester, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

loud hi pitched squeeling noise all the time.

  • Customer: Patrick from Accord, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.
All Instructions for the MAV7600AWW
31-45 of 343