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MAV7600AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAV7600AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAV7600AWW
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washing machine was making alot of noise

  • Customer: David from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 468 of 473 people found this instruction helpful
I found the water pump bearings were going bad from humidity. I replaced the pump with a new one and it runs quiet again.

Washer jumping in spin cycle (white flakes under the washer)

  • Customer: David from Butler PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 140 of 148 people found this instruction helpful
Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.

Washer tub would not spin, pump would empty water from tub.

  • Customer: James from Hueytown AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 121 of 142 people found this instruction helpful
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.

Load Grinding/Rubbing Noise in Rinse and Spin Cycles

  • Customer: Doug from Port Richey FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 114 of 125 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the washer for the electrical outlet. You will need to tip the washer back to get to the bottom of the machine. There you will see the belt that drives the transmission and the water pump from the motor. Remove the belt and set it to the side. Then you will need to gain access to the top side of the machine by gently using a screwdriver to pry the front of the top up off the front panel on both sides then hinge it back out of the way. Use a nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside edge of the front panel and remove the front panel. Once the front panel is off you will see the water pump on the right hand side as you face the front of the machine. Remove the hose clamp on the water pump with the flat head screw driver or nut driver and use a pair of pliers to remove the compression clip on the water pump. Remove the 4 bolts holding the water pump in place. Reverse the entire process to put it back together. This job was very easy and I was only without a washer for 2 days because of partselect.com.

The belt and pulley on the drive motor broke

  • Customer: Michael from Warminster PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 86 of 110 people found this instruction helpful
unplug the washer. Removed the top of the washer by removing the hold scews and tabs on the upper back. Place a scew drive under the front and pry up to release the snap tabs. Then the front panel by removing the two screws on top and lift the panel up to expose the motor at bottom front. Remove the motor cover (plastic)and motor from the base, replace the pulley on the shaft (you may need to break or pry the old pulley off) install the new pulley making sure it is all the way up the shaft locking the tabs into the shat groove. Reinstallmotor to the base. To replace the belt, tilted the unit backwards to access the pulleys from the bottom and installed.
Note: it ios easier to install the belt fully on the two smaller puleys attcahed to the drive motor and pump and then wrap as much as you can around the larger drum pulley. Hold the belt in one hand and turn the drum pulley clockwise with the other and the belt will follow and install. reverse steps to reassemble.

bearing on water pump siezed

  • Customer: kevin from rochester NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 63 of 68 people found this instruction helpful
back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!

Washing machine shut off at begining of cycle

  • Customer: Jason from Aberdeen MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 63 of 75 people found this instruction helpful
The washing machine was full of clothes, water, and detergent when it decided to stop working. I pulled the washer away from the wall (I recommend using two people for this), and removed the back access panel (two screws at the top and bottom). With the washer plugged into the wall outlet I used a multimeter to test electrical distribution through the system. Power goes directly to the Lid Switch from the outlet and is disrtibuted to the washer from this point. When I physically engaged the Lid Switch power was not distributed to the system. This told me that the switch was bad. I unplugged the washer from the wall outlet, then removed the Lid Switch.

To remove the Lid Switch, disconnect the wire connection by pulling straight up, pull back then up on the Lid Switch and it should slide out.

Keep in mind when this happened it was 8 or 9 pm, no supply depots open. I don't recommend an amateur performing this, but in order for me to get the clothes washed I made a jumper wire, composed of two wires twisted together at one end, (wires need to be of equal or greater gauge). I inserted the twisted end of the jumper wire into the black wire port of the Lid Switch wiring connector, then inserted one of the wires into the red wire port and one into the yellow wire port of the connector. Making sure the jumper wire did not make contact between the red and yellow, I plugged in the washer. The washer completed the cycle.

Installing the Lid Switch, reverse removal.

PUMP MAKING HORRIBLE NOISE AND BRAKE STUCK

  • Customer: MICHAEL from PLYMOUTH MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 62 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
The pump was very easy to replace (3) screws, easy to reach with front panel off. (less than 5 minut job. The brake assembly and thrust bearing was a little harder to do, but not bad at all. I found it best to flip the unit upside down to do the brake assembly. Replaced #10-24 x 1/2" screws with 2" long ones. Remember to do this (1) at a time, then back all (6) off a little at a time to release tesion on the 200lb spring. Swap out parts and tighten back down with 2" screws and then swap them back out for the 1/2" ones (1) at a time. I tipped the unit back on its side to install the bearing & pully kit. This takes some of the weight off of the main shaft allowing you to insert the spacers and split ring. The replacement parts seem to be of eqal or better quality to the originals. Machine runs quiet and smooth.

Machine began to make a continuous, dry humming noise in the spin cycle. With in a week the tub was siezed and would not spin anymore.

  • Customer: John J. from Armonk NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 53 of 77 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top by using a wood wedge in each front corner, then removed the two top screws to remove the front panel. Removed the back panel, hoses and belts. Disconnected the balancing springs and removed the tub and transmission as one unit. Then I disconnected the agitator, removed the plastic and metal nuts to remove the tub. Then I replaced the upper tub bearing. Then I disconnected the pulley and brake assembly to get to the lower bearing and replaced it. I reversed the steps to re-assemble.

broken motor pulley

  • Customer: leighton from staten island NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 36 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the plastic cover.then i disconnected the harnest.i then removed the 2 screws and took the motor out. i took a hack saw blade and made a mark in the old pulley. i then took a screw driver and put it in the crack and tapped on it and the old pulley fell apart. i then put on the new pulley and reconnect the motor. i then reconnect the belt.my washer is working great.it was so easy and i save myself some money in the process.

Washer Made Screeching noise on spin & Rinse

  • Customer: Michael from Elgin SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 27 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged Machine, Turned Off Water, Disconnected water and drain hoses. Let water run from hoses ino bucket.
Removed back plate where drain hose goes into back of machine. Used pliers to close the clamp holding to drain hose to remove it. I stuffed the exposed water pump opening with towels to keep water from spilling.
At this point I leaned the machine over on its front so the back of the machine was facing skyward. I placed a towel over the motor in case water spilled it would not get on the electrical components. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine from the water pumps pully. I then removed the three screws mounting the pump to the bottom of the machine. I disconnected the other hose from the water pump that comes from the wash tank with the pliers. Once disconnected I stuffed the ends of both with towels to keep water from leaking out.
I took the new pump and connected the hose from the washer tub with pliers, mounted the pump back to the bottom of the tub with the three screws, replaced the belt, and reconnected the drain hose, and took the towel off the motor. I then replaced the back plate and set the machine upright. I connected all the hoses back up and plugged it in. It worked great. If you spill water on the motor you can dry it with a hair dryer.

washer would agitate, pump, but not spin

  • Customer: steve from lebanon OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.

Skreeching noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: Robert from Mesa AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw driver shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.

make loud rubbing noise like a finger on wet glass

  • Customer: michael from mountain home ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011

Washer shakes violently during spin cycle

  • Customer: Hank from Alpharetta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
All Instructions for the MAV7600AWW
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