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Models > MAH5500BWW > Instructions

MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH5500BWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
46-60 of 190
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Boot torn

  • Customer: Joel from Pittsboro, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

Motor/board , ran erraticly-stopped midstream

  • Customer: Roy from Painesville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta., NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

Pump would not pump water from washer drum

  • Customer: David from Watervliet, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
It was very easy to do. I took the back cover off. I dissconected two hoses. disconnected one wire. removed a small plastic bag (cover over wires). turned the pump 1/4 turn.and reversed this process with the new pump. It took me 15 minutes to remove and replace. Put the washer thru a cycle and it worked!

Machine would not wash

  • Customer: Donald from Holtsville, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front cover, lifted the top, removed old door latch assembly and replaced wire for wire; put the washer back together. The part came in great time and it was a no-brainer. The appliance repair man sold my wife a bill of goods and basically lied to her. Word to the wise, "An appliance repairman who can come at your calling is one to be careful of, most good repairman are busy and it may take a day or two come over."

motor not working

  • Customer: CECILE from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

Mashine leak was quickly diagnosed as rip in boot

  • Customer: Daniel from Avon, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

Water Leak on front of (Front Loading) Washer

  • Customer: Harry from Otsego, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole.
To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts.
Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone.
P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.

Motor had an open in winding

  • Customer: Robert A. from Warwick, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

Door boot tear and softener quick working

  • Customer: Harry from Potosi, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The boot tear looked the easiest but turned out to be the toughest.
After removing the door 2 screws, and finding the opposing two screws I removed the face panel.
Removed the two screws located under the face panel directly under the washer top surface. This allows access to the top of the washer. A wire clamp held with a spring holds the boot in place. Remove the spring or roll it over the edge of the front of the washer tub. Two screws hold the sub-face panel onto the carcass of the washer. remove these. The boot comes out easily. Follow the reverse to reinstall. This may sound easy..its not! The problem lies in the wire and spring arrangement. You must hold both ends of the cable in place near the washer drum taughtly but not too tight or the pressure will cause the boot to edge over the washer tub. It became so bad I consulted a Maytag repair guy. He said we use two pair of needle nosed pliers. Tried that caused banged up knuckles and lots of bad words. I made a tool that operates like a pair of scissors holding the wire on one side and the spring on the other. If you are interested you can track me down and I will tell you how. The softener still doesn't work. Drat. I will have to replace the computer next. OUCH

mold on door boot, replace door boot

  • Customer: TJ from WARWICK, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed the approach on fixya.com. when installing new boot and cable loop, found it easier to remove drum cover from machine (held on with simple clips). Then you can install boot onto the cover and the door frame. Putting everything back in machine and re-attaching the various braces took only a couple of minutes.
All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
46-60 of 190