Models > MAH5500BWW > Instructions

MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH5500BWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
31-45 of 188
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Machine would not lock door

  • Customer: Ron from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions listed by others. I removed the screws that held the door on, and the screws on opposite side of door opening. Then I pulled the face piece towards me to remove it. I removed the bolts on either side that was holding the top on. Here is the part where I had to use my brain. The top would not lift, so I had to remove the cover piece for where the detergent goes. Once I got the top off I just unplugged the wires and plugged them into the new part, unscrewed the old part and installed the new one. I then put my washing machine back together and did some laundry. :)

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

The washer was stating NF code in the panel. It was not refilling for the rinse cycle. I had to manually press the button.

  • Customer: Azeem from Clermont FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Turn the washer to the back. Unscrew the upper right corner water inlet valve. Take it out then replace it with new valve. Then turn your washer on and it will work just like brand new !!!!

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

washer would not drain water

  • Customer: deb from new madison OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
my husband took the old part off. order the new part thru your company...3 days later the part came in. then he reattached thee part to the hoses with the champs and we said alittle pray and i had my washer back

The door lock error -- cycle not completing

  • Customer: Doug from Rescue CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The door was not shutting easily and the plastic receptacle in the door latch assembly was difficult to move. I removed the front cover by removing the door and the hinge covers on the other side of the door hinges, pulled off the front cover, and unscrewed the vertical bolts that hold the top in the front corners. Also removed the soap dispenser (4) screws so the top would lift to allow access to the door latch assembly bolts. These two bolts were removed, the wire plugs undone and the latch assembly replaced. Installation in reverse order. The troubleshooting guide explained why the cycle would still not complete after the latch replacement: There was a little water in the washer and I had to run the spin cycle to drain it. Then it worked normally.

door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

HIGH PITCH NOISE DURING SPIN CYCLE THE SEAL FAILED CAUSING THE BEARING TO FAIL ALSO

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First i removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires.Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside.Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley.Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft.This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine.Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out.This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta. NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

Failed bearings cause by a failed lip seal

  • Customer: Thomas from Olathe KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.

Boot torn

  • Customer: Joel from Pittsboro IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

leaking water

  • Customer: JOSE from HACIENDA HEIGHTS CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Opened a small door in the rear of the washer and loosen the two braces with a screw driver and pulled the old hose and replaced with the new hose replace the door and that was all.
All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
31-45 of 188