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MAH5500BWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH5500BWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
31-45 of 190
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Water leaking down the front of the washer

  • Customer: David from Gibsonia, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The inner door panel was damaged by something getting caught in between it and the tub wearing a hole in the plastic.
Remove door hinges.
Remove screws on sides(2 on each hinge)and 4 on otherside and 2 on bottom.
Pull inner door panel (plastic) out.
Remove doorlatch by flipping up center tab and squeezing sides together.
Remove metal tabs by tilting up the backside and tilting down the front (screw hole side) and pulling through the back.

Reverse for reassembly - relatively easy.

Bearings making loud rough noise

  • Customer: Gregory from El Dorado, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

Bearings making noise.

  • Customer: James from Greer, SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

bearing replacement

  • Customer: Frank from Streator, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 15 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I haven't finished the job yet. I was very surprised and very happy with how fast PartSelect got my part to me. I ordered a lip seal kit (maytag neptune bearing replacement) in the morning, and the very next day it arrived at my door. I'm very impressed. I have everything cleaned up and ready for the new parts. I just have to finish.

Thanks for the speedy service. I'll be highly recommending PartSelect.


Hot water not flowing through.

  • Customer: Lindy from Columbus, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws (as they became accessible) from the following items with screw driver or nut driver:
1) door
2) hinges
3) hinges vanity plug on the other side of the door
4) front panel

I then
5) unplugged the washing machine
6) turned off the hot and cold water
7) removed the hoses and hung them up to avoid water on your floor (have mopping cloth available)
8) Removed the detergent and softener storage pockets
9) Opened the top of the washing machine.
10) pull out internal hoses away from the water valve
11) Removed spade electrical clips from the valve.
12) Wiggle away the valve and remove (if screw is present removed it as well)
13) Put in the new valve and reverse the process back to item 1.

It appears that there was mineral deposit on the valve and I am not certain if it clogged up the valve or seized it .

washer would not drain water

  • Customer: deb from new madison, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
my husband took the old part off. order the new part thru your company...3 days later the part came in. then he reattached thee part to the hoses with the champs and we said alittle pray and i had my washer back

The washer was stating NF code in the panel. It was not refilling for the rinse cycle. I had to manually press the button.

  • Customer: Azeem from Clermont, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Turn the washer to the back. Unscrew the upper right corner water inlet valve. Take it out then replace it with new valve. Then turn your washer on and it will work just like brand new !!!!

Bad Seal Allowed Water to Damage Bearings, makes loud noise in spin

  • Customer: William from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

The door wouldn't stay shut after starting machine.

  • Customer: Dee from Redding, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I remove the the four screws surounding the front door. Then I took off the front panl cover. This give axcess to the nuts that needed to be removed to lift the top panl. Once the top panl was lifted up (not removed) then I was able to unscrew the door latch that was broken and replace it with the new one. I replaced one conected wire at a time so that I wouldn't get them mixed up. After that it was then easy to put back together! It works great now! Saved me from having to go out and buy new ones or to have a repair man come over. Cost me under eighty bucks! I was very happy! Thanks PartsSelect.com!

High Pitch Noise During Spin Cycle The Seal Failed Causing The Bearing To Fail Also

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires. Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside. Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft. This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine. Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out. This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

Machine would not wash

  • Customer: Donald from Holtsville, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front cover, lifted the top, removed old door latch assembly and replaced wire for wire; put the washer back together. The part came in great time and it was a no-brainer. The appliance repair man sold my wife a bill of goods and basically lied to her. Word to the wise, "An appliance repairman who can come at your calling is one to be careful of, most good repairman are busy and it may take a day or two come over."

Pump would not pump water from washer drum

  • Customer: David from Watervliet, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
It was very easy to do. I took the back cover off. I dissconected two hoses. disconnected one wire. removed a small plastic bag (cover over wires). turned the pump 1/4 turn.and reversed this process with the new pump. It took me 15 minutes to remove and replace. Put the washer thru a cycle and it worked!
All Instructions for the MAH5500BWW
31-45 of 190