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MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
61-75 of 205
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Ancillary Work when Replacing Noisey Tub Bearings

  • Customer: Glenn from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement for the drive belt and dispenser bezel were part of a bigger job of changing the outer tub bearings. Those familiar with Maytag Neptune washers will experience the jet-taking-off sound when the tub seals wear and water gets into the bearings. While I would have the machine open I thought I would change the drive belt. I also noticed the dispenser bezel had two of the four mounting corners broken.

Replacing the bearings was done. I purchased the bearings and rented a bearing puller made especially for this job

After the bearing and seal replacement, I put on the new belt. It was almost straight forward. Almost because the belt didn't just slip on. The new belt is much smaller than the old belt. Not having the grip strength of Mr. Atlas, I was not able to hold the belt on the pulley rim while turning the pulley around, as the instructions say. The other thing that makes this difficult is that the ribs on the outer tub are quite close to the spokes of the pulley. I was not able to firmly grasp around the belt and pulley with one hand and turn the pulley with the other. My knuckles seemed to get in the way (ouch!).

Being an electrical engineer, I happen to have cable ties handy. I used one to hold the belt on the pulley rim, and was able to turn the pulley with two hands (still watching out for my knuckles).

For the dispenser bezel, I took the old dispenser lid and hinge pins off the old bezel by cutting the bezel between the hinge points, then transferred them on the new one.

On the washer top cover, there was a lot rust around the dispenser opening. So before closing up the machine and installing the bezel, I removed the loose rust, then applied a rust converter. The rust converter was in an aerosol can, and since I was working on the washing machine inside the house and not wanting to make a mess, instead of spraying the cover, I sprayed onto a paper towel then dabbed the chemical onto the rusty spots. I finished with an appliance epoxy paint around the dispenser opening.

I'd like to say I was impressed with the service from PartSelect. I ordered on Saturday, they shipped on Monday, and the parts arrived on Tuesday morning, and this was with standard shipping. On Thursday I was ready to put on the belt, but there was also a problem where one of the motor isolators was missing from the belt kit. I called in the shortage and they shipped the next day and the new belt kit arrive on Saturday. I noticed the shipment was from Fresno so they must have a warehouse there.

So all in all, the drive belt and dispenser bezel were simple to install. Certainly they were the easiest parts of the job.

seal went out bearings also had to be replaced

  • Customer: Robin from Wagoner AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

Washer would not pump out water

  • Customer: Joella from Parkville MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the pump and found several coins had damaged the prop blade. I ordered a new one and installed it easily. The intake on the new pump was slightly smaller than the original so the original quick clamp produced a leak. A simple manual hose clamp corrected that problem.

Machine would spin, but not fill

  • Customer: KEITH from EVERGREEN CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the water valve, but that was not the problem. Problem was a burned out control circuit board caused when the machine's door lock (wax motor) failed. Failure of this $20 part destroyed the circuit board ($200). Beware! Check these other items before replacing the valve.

Motor/board , ran erraticly-stopped midstream

  • Customer: Roy from Painesville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Bearings making loud rough noise

  • Customer: Gregory from El Dorado AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

Old seal had torn in several places

  • Customer: John from Belen NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

TOP OF DISPENSER BROKE AT HINGE

  • Customer: KENNETH from Portsmouth RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED 4 SCREWS HOLDING DISPENSER FRAME. REMOVED OLD & INSTALLED NEW FRAME. TOP, HINGED LID NEEDED TO BE SLIGHTLY BOWED SO HINGE PINS COULD BE FIT IN HOLES. END OF REPAIR.

Washing machine wouldn't drain water or finish load

  • Customer: Cheryl from Palmer AK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Even though after reading many repair blogs saying not to remove the back of the washer, I did anyway. Lo and behold after opening it, the pump was right there!! I removed the hoses (make sure you have a bucket, or shop vac handy) lots of water will come pouring out use your bucket for this, I used my shopvac to suck the rest of the water out of the hose, and bing, the washing maching door opened and allowed my to retrieve my clothing(stinky now after the washing machine held them hostage for days) I removed it by removing 3 bolts, and 1 screw very easy. I took apart the pump to see if there was anything blocking up the moter there was nothing, but the plastic pump blade was chewed up so bad, it no longer would turn to pump out the water. I had to order a pump. When my pump came in 2 short days later, I reversed to removal process and presto!! The washing machine was running like new.

The repair went really quick. My husband was able to do it in about 5 minutes. Also the service was amazing. We ordered the part and we got it 3 days later. I have no complaints about ordering from this company and am sure that If I need to get new parts in the future this is where I will get them.

  • Customer: Sarah from Ephraim UT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
There was 4 screws that held the bevel in that still needed to be removed from the old broken one. Once we removed those we were able to place the new bevel and lid in the correct sport, replace the screws and viola, perfect.

water leaking on the floor.

  • Customer: john from st helen MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the door on the washer,and pushed on inner tub upward.it moved about 1 inch and the I knew tub bearings where shot .So I removed all components and repaced the outer tub with new bearing pack.. NOTE... Not an easy repair..but when i finished i had no probems with water leakage.ALL GOOD.

Bearings making noise.

  • Customer: James from Greer SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

Top pin on dispenser door was rusted so the door would come off.

  • Customer: Kathy from Tulsa OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 4 screws that kept the bezel in place, removed the bezel. Replaced the new bezel, replaced screws, put new top pin in door and put door on.

Replace power cord that had burned from a small fire

  • Customer: Hersch from Mamaroneck NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I removed top control panel and then the old power cord that been damaged by a small fire and the just attached the new power cord and control panel. Unblievably simple and I saved myself a lot of money. Where I live in a NYC suburb this type of simple repair could easily cost $100.

leaking water at the seal between the drum and door assembly

  • Customer: max from antioch IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
61-75 of 205