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Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
46-60 of 208
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Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

change stuck in drain pump, damaged the motor

  • Customer: gordon from indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
just replaces the pump , the replacement pump was a little different than OE , mounting bracket different but was able to remove housing and bracket from broke pump and put on new pump , all works fine

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Motor/board , ran erraticly-stopped midstream

  • Customer: Roy from Painesville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta., NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

It went like butter

  • Customer: Charnell from Tacoma, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
it's best to pull off the back of washer then it is too go through the front thats my only hint

Washed a stroller seat w/ a semi hard plastic back and it wore a large friction hole in the door liner.

  • Customer: Mike from Kissimmee, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the door itself from the unit by taking out 2 screws and lifting the door slightly so that the hinges can slide out of their slots. I then preceded to remove the liner assembly from the door. Once all the screws where removed I separated the liner from the door and continued to remove the additional hardware from the damaged liner and transfered it to the new one. I paid close attention to how items were removed but other than the hinges, all other items can only fit one way. The liner was then replaced and the door put back on the unit. Pay close attention to the door hinges, reattaching them wrong won't allow the door to line up or close properly.

Mashine leak was quickly diagnosed as rip in boot

  • Customer: Daniel from Avon, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

water leaking on the floor.

  • Customer: john from st helen, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the door on the washer,and pushed on inner tub upward.it moved about 1 inch and the I knew tub bearings where shot .So I removed all components and repaced the outer tub with new bearing pack.. NOTE... Not an easy repair..but when i finished i had no probems with water leakage.ALL GOOD.

motor not working

  • Customer: CECILE from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

had a rip in the bellow

  • Customer: william from moses lake, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING

Would not pump out water

  • Customer: Linda from Sunbury, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I have a new Matag repairman, my husband. He took the front panel off by removing the screws. Then removed the balance on the drum and found the pump. Put the new one on and put everything back and my washer runs better than it has in a long time. Saved us a service call and hourly rate for a service man that couldn't come for 4 days.

The pump would not empty the washer.

  • Customer: Wilson from Logansport, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I had taken the back off the washer already. The pump was connected to an incoming fitting and the out going fitting with hose clamps. Removed the hose and hose clamps from the old pump, connected the hose and hose clamps to the new pump, reconnected the wiring and that was about it. The pump was mounted to the bottom panel of the washer by simply plastic plugs requiring no tools. It was very easy.

mold on door boot, replace door boot

  • Customer: TJ from WARWICK, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed the approach on fixya.com. when installing new boot and cable loop, found it easier to remove drum cover from machine (held on with simple clips). Then you can install boot onto the cover and the door frame. Putting everything back in machine and re-attaching the various braces took only a couple of minutes.

I found water on the floor beneath the washer. Further inspection revealed the door boot was torn.

  • Customer: GREGORY from HALIFAX, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
46-60 of 208