Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
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Boot torn

  • Customer: Joel from Pittsboro, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

Motor had an open in winding

  • Customer: Robert A. from Warwick, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

Ancillary Work when Replacing Noisey Tub Bearings

  • Customer: Glenn from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement for the drive belt and dispenser bezel were part of a bigger job of changing the outer tub bearings. Those familiar with Maytag Neptune washers will experience the jet-taking-off sound when the tub seals wear and water gets into the bearings. While I would have the machine open I thought I would change the drive belt. I also noticed the dispenser bezel had two of the four mounting corners broken.

Replacing the bearings was done. I purchased the bearings and rented a bearing puller made especially for this job

After the bearing and seal replacement, I put on the new belt. It was almost straight forward. Almost because the belt didn't just slip on. The new belt is much smaller than the old belt. Not having the grip strength of Mr. Atlas, I was not able to hold the belt on the pulley rim while turning the pulley around, as the instructions say. The other thing that makes this difficult is that the ribs on the outer tub are quite close to the spokes of the pulley. I was not able to firmly grasp around the belt and pulley with one hand and turn the pulley with the other. My knuckles seemed to get in the way (ouch!).

Being an electrical engineer, I happen to have cable ties handy. I used one to hold the belt on the pulley rim, and was able to turn the pulley with two hands (still watching out for my knuckles).

For the dispenser bezel, I took the old dispenser lid and hinge pins off the old bezel by cutting the bezel between the hinge points, then transferred them on the new one.

On the washer top cover, there was a lot rust around the dispenser opening. So before closing up the machine and installing the bezel, I removed the loose rust, then applied a rust converter. The rust converter was in an aerosol can, and since I was working on the washing machine inside the house and not wanting to make a mess, instead of spraying the cover, I sprayed onto a paper towel then dabbed the chemical onto the rusty spots. I finished with an appliance epoxy paint around the dispenser opening.

I'd like to say I was impressed with the service from PartSelect. I ordered on Saturday, they shipped on Monday, and the parts arrived on Tuesday morning, and this was with standard shipping. On Thursday I was ready to put on the belt, but there was also a problem where one of the motor isolators was missing from the belt kit. I called in the shortage and they shipped the next day and the new belt kit arrive on Saturday. I noticed the shipment was from Fresno so they must have a warehouse there.

So all in all, the drive belt and dispenser bezel were simple to install. Certainly they were the easiest parts of the job.

Water Leak on front of (Front Loading) Washer

  • Customer: Harry from Otsego, MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole.
To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts.
Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone.
P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.

Mashine leak was quickly diagnosed as rip in boot

  • Customer: Daniel from Avon, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta., NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

Bad Seal Allowed Water to Damage Bearings, makes loud noise in spin

  • Customer: William from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

Washed a stroller seat w/ a semi hard plastic back and it wore a large friction hole in the door liner.

  • Customer: Mike from Kissimmee, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the door itself from the unit by taking out 2 screws and lifting the door slightly so that the hinges can slide out of their slots. I then preceded to remove the liner assembly from the door. Once all the screws where removed I separated the liner from the door and continued to remove the additional hardware from the damaged liner and transfered it to the new one. I paid close attention to how items were removed but other than the hinges, all other items can only fit one way. The liner was then replaced and the door put back on the unit. Pay close attention to the door hinges, reattaching them wrong won't allow the door to line up or close properly.

The pump would not empty the washer.

  • Customer: Wilson from Logansport, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I had taken the back off the washer already. The pump was connected to an incoming fitting and the out going fitting with hose clamps. Removed the hose and hose clamps from the old pump, connected the hose and hose clamps to the new pump, reconnected the wiring and that was about it. The pump was mounted to the bottom panel of the washer by simply plastic plugs requiring no tools. It was very easy.

Would not pump out water

  • Customer: Linda from Sunbury, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I have a new Matag repairman, my husband. He took the front panel off by removing the screws. Then removed the balance on the drum and found the pump. Put the new one on and put everything back and my washer runs better than it has in a long time. Saved us a service call and hourly rate for a service man that couldn't come for 4 days.

mold on door boot, replace door boot

  • Customer: TJ from WARWICK, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed the approach on fixya.com. when installing new boot and cable loop, found it easier to remove drum cover from machine (held on with simple clips). Then you can install boot onto the cover and the door frame. Putting everything back in machine and re-attaching the various braces took only a couple of minutes.

I found water on the floor beneath the washer. Further inspection revealed the door boot was torn.

  • Customer: GREGORY from HALIFAX, PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.

The door liner broke while my wife was washing a comforter

  • Customer: Ted from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Taking off the old door and removing the inner door line was relatively easy. I believe I had to remove a total of 8 screws to completely remove the hinges and gain access to the inner panel. Removing the vent tume and grommet was easy, however, I regret not taking a picture of the door latch assembly before removing the vent tube. The door latch is held in by a pair of springs and I had a heck of a time getting the springs back on the door frame assembly. I don't know if I attached it correctly, but the washer locks properly! Attaching the vent tube itself was not that difficult but the same cannot be said of the vent grommet. There was no way to get this grommet in the bottom opening without distorting it or tearing it apart. I finally had to slide it up on the vent tube assembly and basically force it down into the bottom opening. It was not the easiest task to do and I spent more time fiddling about with this stupid grommet than I did with the entire repair. The one thing I would caution anyone doing this repair in the future is to pay close attention to how the speed nuts are installed on the exterior door frame when you go to attach the inner liner. If you do not install them properly you will not be able to attach the inner liner to the exterior door panel.

motor not working

  • Customer: CECILE from BROOKLYN, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

had a rip in the bellow

  • Customer: william from moses lake, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
46-60 of 208