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Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
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bearing replacement

  • Customer: Frank from Streator, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 14 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I haven't finished the job yet. I was very surprised and very happy with how fast PartSelect got my part to me. I ordered a lip seal kit (maytag neptune bearing replacement) in the morning, and the very next day it arrived at my door. I'm very impressed. I have everything cleaned up and ready for the new parts. I just have to finish.

Thanks for the speedy service. I'll be highly recommending PartSelect.

Frank

Trips Imbalance Too Easily; Wouldn't Drain

  • Customer: Bradley from Round Rock, TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 13 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front door and front skin, tipped up top cover and replaced two front suspension springs (added grease lube onto spring hooks.) Tipped machine forward onto its front face, removed rear cover then removed rightside strut assembly. Installed new then removed left strut assembly. Installed new. Tightened all components. Repaired broken power wire to the remote pump. Tipped back upright, restored all skins and tested function. Washer was fully repaired with excellent cleaning results.

High Pitch Noise During Spin Cycle The Seal Failed Causing The Bearing To Fail Also

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires. Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside. Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley. Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft. This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine. Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out. This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

Bearings making noise.

  • Customer: James from Greer, SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

Failed bearings cause by a failed lip seal

  • Customer: Thomas from Olathe, KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Boot torn

  • Customer: Joel from Pittsboro, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Bad Seal Allowed Water to Damage Bearings, makes loud noise in spin

  • Customer: William from New Smyrna Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

Motor/board , ran erraticly-stopped midstream

  • Customer: Roy from Painesville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Had to move all the concoctions my wife uses on my greasy work clothes [ purple power, dawn dishwash soap,lestoil, etc..] Removed front , removed back panel..Replaced board then motor..Replaced belt while I was in there.I had already changed out the tub bearing assembly earlier..Quite a complex machine when you get in that deep..Runs like new...

Ancillary Work when Replacing Noisey Tub Bearings

  • Customer: Glenn from San Jose, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement for the drive belt and dispenser bezel were part of a bigger job of changing the outer tub bearings. Those familiar with Maytag Neptune washers will experience the jet-taking-off sound when the tub seals wear and water gets into the bearings. While I would have the machine open I thought I would change the drive belt. I also noticed the dispenser bezel had two of the four mounting corners broken.

Replacing the bearings was done. I purchased the bearings and rented a bearing puller made especially for this job

After the bearing and seal replacement, I put on the new belt. It was almost straight forward. Almost because the belt didn't just slip on. The new belt is much smaller than the old belt. Not having the grip strength of Mr. Atlas, I was not able to hold the belt on the pulley rim while turning the pulley around, as the instructions say. The other thing that makes this difficult is that the ribs on the outer tub are quite close to the spokes of the pulley. I was not able to firmly grasp around the belt and pulley with one hand and turn the pulley with the other. My knuckles seemed to get in the way (ouch!).

Being an electrical engineer, I happen to have cable ties handy. I used one to hold the belt on the pulley rim, and was able to turn the pulley with two hands (still watching out for my knuckles).

For the dispenser bezel, I took the old dispenser lid and hinge pins off the old bezel by cutting the bezel between the hinge points, then transferred them on the new one.

On the washer top cover, there was a lot rust around the dispenser opening. So before closing up the machine and installing the bezel, I removed the loose rust, then applied a rust converter. The rust converter was in an aerosol can, and since I was working on the washing machine inside the house and not wanting to make a mess, instead of spraying the cover, I sprayed onto a paper towel then dabbed the chemical onto the rusty spots. I finished with an appliance epoxy paint around the dispenser opening.

I'd like to say I was impressed with the service from PartSelect. I ordered on Saturday, they shipped on Monday, and the parts arrived on Tuesday morning, and this was with standard shipping. On Thursday I was ready to put on the belt, but there was also a problem where one of the motor isolators was missing from the belt kit. I called in the shortage and they shipped the next day and the new belt kit arrive on Saturday. I noticed the shipment was from Fresno so they must have a warehouse there.

So all in all, the drive belt and dispenser bezel were simple to install. Certainly they were the easiest parts of the job.

Water Leaking Into Drum When Machine Is Off

  • Customer: SHANE from NUEVO, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front door screws & front panel screws, removed screws in the "l" brackets holding the top down, tilted the top up & back, removed 3 hoses & 3 wire connectors from the old water valve. Removed 1 screw holding valve & replaced with new valve. Re-connected 3 wires & 3 hoses, replaced top & front door. While the machine was out from the wall, removed the back loovered cover, removed the old belt & removed 1 bolt holding motor. Removed th e motor, removed & replaced the 2 plastic insolators with the new ones supplyed with the belt on the motor spindels, re-installed the motor & bolt, then the new belt that is self adjusting. Replaced back cover & put machine back online, easy deal for anyone with very basic mechanical knowledge
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
31-45 of 208