Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
31-45 of 205
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The pump would not empty the washer.

  • Customer: Wilson from Logansport IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I had taken the back off the washer already. The pump was connected to an incoming fitting and the out going fitting with hose clamps. Removed the hose and hose clamps from the old pump, connected the hose and hose clamps to the new pump, reconnected the wiring and that was about it. The pump was mounted to the bottom panel of the washer by simply plastic plugs requiring no tools. It was very easy.

HIGH PITCH NOISE DURING SPIN CYCLE THE SEAL FAILED CAUSING THE BEARING TO FAIL ALSO

  • Customer: tommy from madisonville KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First i removed front and rear covers and the dispenser screws. If you are carefull you can fold the front cover back and lay it on top of the washer so that you do not have to unplug all the wires.Remove the clips on the front of the outer drum with a small flat blade screwdriver and set aside.Go to the back and roll the belt off the pulley.Remove bolt and snap ring and the pulley should pull toward you off of the shaft.This is plastic be carefull. The inner drum will now pull out thru the front of the machine.Now read the directions again and again about the seal because you have to replace exactly what you take out.This is my only complaint with the directions there needs to be a picture and not an illustration of the placement of the sael and the spacer in my case.

door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

LR Code on the display, washer would not spin.

  • Customer: William from Colver PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel and took out the old control board, which had a burnt spot on it. Removed back panel and took out the old motor. Put in the new motor and then the new control panel. Runs perfect.

Motor did not have the ability to rotate washing machine drum.

  • Customer: Raymond from Huntington Sta. NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old motor installed new motor.

Failed bearings cause by a failed lip seal

  • Customer: Thomas from Olathe KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.

Washed a stroller seat w/ a semi hard plastic back and it wore a large friction hole in the door liner.

  • Customer: Mike from Kissimmee FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the door itself from the unit by taking out 2 screws and lifting the door slightly so that the hinges can slide out of their slots. I then preceded to remove the liner assembly from the door. Once all the screws where removed I separated the liner from the door and continued to remove the additional hardware from the damaged liner and transfered it to the new one. I paid close attention to how items were removed but other than the hinges, all other items can only fit one way. The liner was then replaced and the door put back on the unit. Pay close attention to the door hinges, reattaching them wrong won't allow the door to line up or close properly.

Water Leak on front of (Front Loading) Washer

  • Customer: Harry from Otsego MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I researched the internet and found my answer on this site. There were others who shared their experiences which made the repair easy. There was a leak in the front gasket between the drum and outer frame. I printed out several answers that customers had posted. I opened the front door on the washer and found a tear in the bottom of the gasket near the drain hole.
To use the washer until the parts arrived (which only took 2 days), I used a bike repair patch to seal the hole in the gasket. NOTE: Don't use the glue type as it may get on the clothing. I used a patch that you pull off the backing and apply. It worked great until I got the parts.
Another party had posted how he got the cable and spring attached on the gasket. He used fishing line. I used masonary string I got from Home Depot. I made a loop on one end and attached it with the spring and pulled both around the gasket after I had positioned it on the back drum. I looped the string over the other end of the spring and pulled. As the spring stretched, I hooked the other end of the cable on the spring. It worked perfectly. Note: Don't worry about the string being underneath the cable, you merely pull it out slowly and the hard part is done. I then hooked the front of the gasket into the slots and finished the job. It took about 40 minutes alone.
P.S. Parts select got my ordered filled and sent to my residence within two days. Great experience and I would not hesitate to order from them again.

WATER LEAKING INTO DRUM WHEN MACHINE IS OFF

  • Customer: SHANE from NUEVO CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED THE FRONT DOOR SCREWS & FRONT PANEL SCREWS, REMOVED SCREWS IN THE "L" BRACKETS HOLDING THE TOP DOWN, TILTED THE TOP UP & BACK, REMOVED 3 HOSES & 3 WIRE CONNECTORS FROM THE OLD WATER VALVE. REMOVED 1 SCREW HOLDING VALVE & REPLACED WITH NEW VALVE. RE-CONNECTED 3 WIRES & 3 HOSES, REPLACED TOP & FRONT DOOR. WHILE THE MACHINE WAS OUT FROM THE WALL, REMOVED THE BACK LOOVERED COVER, REMOVED THE OLD BELT & REMOVED 1 BOLT HOLDING MOTOR. REMOVED TH E MOTOR, REMOVED & REPLACED THE 2 PLASTIC INSOLATORS WITH THE NEW ONES SUPPLYED WITH THE BELT ON THE MOTOR SPINDELS, RE-INSTALLED THE MOTOR & BOLT, THEN THE NEW BELT THAT IS SELF ADJUSTING. REPLACED BACK COVER & PUT MACHINE BACK ONLINE, EASY DEAL FOR ANYONE WITH VERY BASIC MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE

The door liner broke while my wife was washing a comforter

  • Customer: Ted from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Taking off the old door and removing the inner door line was relatively easy. I believe I had to remove a total of 8 screws to completely remove the hinges and gain access to the inner panel. Removing the vent tume and grommet was easy, however, I regret not taking a picture of the door latch assembly before removing the vent tube. The door latch is held in by a pair of springs and I had a heck of a time getting the springs back on the door frame assembly. I don't know if I attached it correctly, but the washer locks properly! Attaching the vent tube itself was not that difficult but the same cannot be said of the vent grommet. There was no way to get this grommet in the bottom opening without distorting it or tearing it apart. I finally had to slide it up on the vent tube assembly and basically force it down into the bottom opening. It was not the easiest task to do and I spent more time fiddling about with this stupid grommet than I did with the entire repair. The one thing I would caution anyone doing this repair in the future is to pay close attention to how the speed nuts are installed on the exterior door frame when you go to attach the inner liner. If you do not install them properly you will not be able to attach the inner liner to the exterior door panel.

Motor had an open in winding

  • Customer: Robert A. from Warwick NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
1) Removed machine front by removing four (4) screws. 2) Removed rear access panel. 3) Replaced antiquated motor controller with upgade revision; basically unplug and plug 4) replaced motor and 5) closed up unit. Whole job took about an hour with half the time spent moving the unit to work oo.

Trips Imbalance Too Easily; Wouldn't Drain

  • Customer: Bradley from Round Rock TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front door and front skin, tipped up top cover and replaced two front suspension springs (added grease lube onto spring hooks.) Tipped machine forward onto its front face, removed rear cover then removed rightside strut assembly. Installed new then removed left strut assembly. Installed new. Tightened all components. Repaired broken power wire to the remote pump. Tipped back upright, restored all skins and tested function. Washer was fully repaired with excellent cleaning results.

Motor won't run.

  • Customer: Vicente from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the troubleshooting procedure that came with the
washer.Found problem,(with a little help from my experience
in electronics). Order motor and control board kit.
Followed the easy instructions that came with parts and
had it working in no time!!!!
Good job PartSelect !!!!

It went like butter

  • Customer: Charnell from Tacoma WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
it's best to pull off the back of washer then it is too go through the front thats my only hint
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
31-45 of 205