Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
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Intermittent fill, rinse, door lock, and temp control.

  • Customer: Stephen from Amity OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Removed five screws from rear of control panel.
Removed two control board mounting screws.
Replaced control board.
Replaced all screws.
Washer worked except for temp control.
Opened front door and removed four screws.
Removed front panel.
Removed two lock tab screws and locking tabs.
Lifted up top of washer.
Unplugged cable from thermistor.
Closed washer top and reinstalled locks and front panel.
Temperature control switch now controls temperature without using the thermistor+.

Bad bearings and support arm

  • Customer: Susan from Whiteford MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
We took off the fornt and back of the machine and pulled out the outer tub...then pulled the rear and the front bearings...and the sleeve between...and the support arm...We had only thought we would replace the bearings, but there is a seal in the hub of the support arm that often goes wrong and causes the bearing problem...That appeared to be the case in this fix...so we are glad we chose to replace the arm too. Then we reassembled in reverse order and voila! The machine is as quiet as can be!

the problem is the motor

  • Customer: Bick from Alameda CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
first i follow the instruction come with parts in box...and replace easy this the best place to buy parts for all home appliance...thanks

The washer was stopping at each part of the wash cycle

  • Customer: Fred from Riverside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at the exploded view that was posted on the website which was a big help. I took off the back and took off the control knob. I then unscrewed the timer from the console and it took a couple of minutes to realize that the timer moved to the left and had these lugs that anchored it to the console. The fact that there was only one screw should have been a give away. The hard part was disconnecting the wiring plug from the old timer.
The install was in reverse and easy.
The only problem is that while the washer no longer stops at every step of the cycle it still periodically stops at the 2nd and the 3rd rinse.
I don't know what that is, I suspect it is a relay but I am having trouble figuring out which relay it is.
Overall, it ws a piece of cake and the washer does run better.

Loud noise when in spin dry

  • Customer: Michael from Orland Park IL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This kit came with instructions. I followed them closely. The only thing I could add is clean the tub spindle with steelwool to remove any debris or rust. then wipe down spindle to remove all steelwool particles and follow instructions to reassamble.

the water drain pump started to make grinding noises and poor draining

  • Customer: carlos from rio rancho NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
the repairs couldn't be easier, the pump came right out. just loosen the two water drain hoses and out it came. the intallation was just as easy...

machine stopped at rinse cycle. shut off.

  • Customer: Royce from Woodstock GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
removed 5 screws from back of control panel holding back panel cover. removed control knob from front of control panel. removed screw holding Timer. slid Timer module to right and pulled Timer out. disconnected plug from old module. plugged
new module in and reversed previous removal procedure. Unfortunately this did not correct the problem as machine still stops at rinse cycle and shuts down. misdiagnosis on my part. called repairman and he diagnosed a bad control board.
Cost is 3 times cost of Timer alone.

Seal failure, leading to bearing failure

  • Customer: James from Chillicothe IL
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Not much to add to others' descriptions of the repair except for two things- one, the procedure for removing the front shroud on a stackable unit is somewhat different than what is described in the seal kit directions. The door switch assembly gets in the way; though the whole repair can be done by one person, it would be better (and safer) to have a second person helping at least during this part. The whole shroud is unwieldy, with two drain hoses attached, along with two dispenser hoses, the door switch/light, and the side & bottom mounting brackets, and it has to be eased out one step at a time. During the last part of this you will have to lift up the front of the dryer at the same time.

Second, our particular washer has a 90xxxx serial number. The bearings are Chinese-sourced, not the good NSK bearings. Though the listed bearing numbers are the same... the rear bearing is held in by a retainer that is permanently fixed into the outer tub. There is no easy way to drive the bearing forward, either, as the retainer covers nearly all the bearing outer shell. The chances are very high that the outer tub would be damaged beyond repair if the retainer or bearing was removed. Fortunately in this washer, the back bearing was still in reasonable shape and had some grease left; I was able to pop out the grease seal and re-pack it with wheel bearing grease. The front bearing & seal are replaced as others have described. The front bearing takes a majority of the load, so others may have similar wear.

This washer was only 3 1/2 years old; we bought six Maytag appliances at the same time, and four of the six have had major repair problems (two were cheaper to replace than repair). That, and the $678 replacement cost of the outer tub, explains why the Maytag repairman is so lonely...

Door would not lock, stopping the wash cycle

  • Customer: James from Scotts Valley CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Wax motor was operational but door would not always lock. Rebuilt the latch mechanism with new parts including all three switches. Latch now makes an audible click when it engages, like it did when new.

Daughters destroyed door seal with comforter caught in the door...

  • Customer: Glenn from New Paltz NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
*** MY REPAIR STORY ***

*** Rule #1: READ THE OTHER STORIES FIRST! ***

The best tip was supplied by the guy that used a piece of good twine/string to help him reconnect the inner seal cable and spring assembly; the whole business of using a buddy to do so is a lot of hooey. Save yourself the aggravation of using your wife, kid or other mechanically-declined individual, and use the string trick. It is still a royal pain, but it is far superior with only one person, using the unbeatable mechanical advantage that the string gives you. I used a piece of good waxed poly twine; I tied it to a convenient hole near the front right side corner of the machine, and then threaded it throught the spring and pulled it with some good pliers in order to stretch the spring enough to re-engage the other loop of the inner seal cable, using needle nose pliers. Of course, it took about four shots to get it right, but I was particularly anal about getting the cable ends in their originally-installed orientation. In retrospect, it ought not make too much of a difference, as long as you keep the spring near the top of the drum and respect the placement of the cable: make sure it is fully in its recess in the seal, all the way 'round. Additionally, pay close attention to the drain hose attachment and outer seal installation; you don't want any more leaks. I have strong fingers so it was a snap, and there are both molded recesses, arrows and "tits" along the seal edges that correspond to the outline of the machine's mating surfaces. Please take the time to push in all the lugs all the way all around in all positions; your floor's dryness is depending on you. As far as the inner seal cable/spring situation goes, be aware that any slight failure to get it right will likely cause a "domino effect" that will necessitate that you to reinstall the seal along its entire periphery, on both inner and outer sides... hold onto that cable, and watch as you tension the spring... it will cause the inner seal to walk off the drum if you aren't paying attention, and you will not be able to recover the perfect position you had at first. In honesty, that is the only "difficult" part of the job. Ensure you've had ample food & drink before you undertake seal replacement ( and not alcoholic drink, either... ) !

As with all jobs of this type, the end was far better than the beginning... the machine doesn't spew water out onto the floor anymore, and helped reinforce my claim to the "most useful" Family Member status! lol My wife was nice to me for almost a week afterwards... your mileage may vary.

PartSelect.com, thank you so much for not only the right part at the right price delivered fast, but also the forum where others could report their repair experiences in order to give a good heads up to those contemplating this repair job. Super site, super business, would definitely use again. A+

Regards,

Glenn Buononato

bearings on tub bad

  • Customer: Richard from Swanton OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I removed everything to get to the inner tub then removed the belt pulley and pushed inner tub and shaft out of the outer tub. Then I used a die grinder and cut bearings out. I am a Machine Repairman by trade. I have cut out a lot of bearings before but nothing this small. It took 2hrs. I fit new bearings to the outer tub and shaft. Then put on the new seal and reassembled The bearings I got the at Granger approximately $45., and new seal approximately $40.. All I read on this washer is the bearings could not be replaced. The new outer tub with bearings is well over $400. At that price plus labor nobody repairs these washers. I have seen some on Craig list not in working order These washers are not that old.
I ended up buying the same thing for my daughter in law. Same bearings and seal. For the short service life I have received from the Maytag Neptune, I don’t think I would buy or recommend Maytag products.



I like to do this kind of work. Rich

The spinner support had sheared off

  • Customer: Stacie from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the drum. Removed the spinner support. Removed old seals. Reinstalled new spinner support. Reinstalled pulley and belt. Reinstalled drum. Reinstalled machine covers.

LR Code on the display, washer would not spin.

  • Customer: William from Colver PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel and took out the old control board, which had a burnt spot on it. Removed back panel and took out the old motor. Put in the new motor and then the new control panel. Runs perfect.

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
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