Models > MAH4000AWW > Instructions

MAH4000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
151-165 of 205
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Water would not pump completely out

  • Customer: Jason from Pleasant Hill CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the back panel (4 screws). Use screw driver to loosen the bands. I had to tilt the washer up on a block to "twist" the part free. Once you see the bottom of the washer, you can see how the pump attaches and how to free it from the mount. The hardest part of the job was trying to get the hoses back on using one hand. That was a hard task. I used the shop vac to suck up the water that came pouring out of the drum once I loosened the bands. Not a hard repair. Unfortunately this did not fix my issue, but I wasn't going to go through hooking the old pump back up. (Was the far more expensive timing board that was faulty)

washer boot was leaking

  • Customer: Alethia from New Braunfels TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the video, besides the spring, everything was easy.

Water would not pump completely out

  • Customer: Jason from Pleasant Hill CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Water would not pump out fully. Tried replacing the pump. That did not fix my problem. Bought a timer. Steps to replace (takes about 5 minutes). Unplug washer. Take out the 5 screws that are around the edge of the top panel. Do not take out the two screws that are in the middle of the panel. Those hold in other parts. The back tray will be seated and kind of flip down. Look for the part that looks like a timer. It is on the left hand side when looking at the back. Remove the one screw and slide the timer to the right. Remove the wire plug. Reverse the procedure to put in the new timer. Easy as cake. Crack open a beer and listen to the timer run through all the cycles.

Tub cover and seal was torn

  • Customer: Howard from Syracuse NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Found the part on parts select, which also had a very helpful DIY repair video to replace the part. I followed the video step by step to fix the tub cover, and the washer is back to full working condition!!! I could not be happier with Partselect.com. Their easy appliance break down to find the exact part that is broken; but to also include a instructional video for that part was amazing.

Increasing water leak

  • Customer: James from Scotts Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The machine had the old style boot drain hose with built-in bellows. The constant flexing of this tube caused a small crack in one of the bellows that gradually increased in size over time, causing water to leak into the bottom front part of the machine. Repair accomplished by removing the door (crosspoint screws), the retangular panel above the apron over the door, the apron above the door (5/16 socket), and the front lower panel (crosspoint screws). Pliers used to open the spring hose clamps, old leaky tube removed (re-use the rubber clearance washer that is on the tube). New tube installed easily, then panels reinstalled. 10 minutes total.

Stinky Neptune front door seal-Mildew

  • Customer: James from Lincoln city OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement was not complicated. It took me more time because the details are not in the videos and I had to do it twice because I didn't get the seal on correctly the first time. I used the Neptune videos available on you tube for the basics. Use the "inspecting front door lock wax motor" video for a start, but be sure to take off the top front crosspiece also for easier access to the spring that tensions the seal retainer cable. You don't have to disconnect any wires, just lay the door lock assembly gently to the left of the washer. The old seal comes off very easily, using the front loader door seal video. My washer was an early one without the drain tube so I had to get the drain tube and clamps separately and drill out the tub nipple to the left below the seal. I used the biggest drill bit I had that fit inside the nipple. The tub is plastic and very easy to drill. Most of the plastic shavings will come out toward you if you drill slowly and don't push too hard on the drill. I also used my shop vac to try and get out any other shavings. I used dish washing liquid as a lubricant to help put the seal on and used too much. It doesn't take very much. The spring that tightens the inner seal clamp/cable was very hard to attach and it did require two locking pliers [vise-grips] and quite a lot of effort. You have to hook one end of the spring to the cable that wraps around the seal, hold the other end of the cable with locking pliers, the free end of the spring with locking pliers, and stretch the spring to hook it to the free end of the cable. There are some other methods described in various forums and one of them might work better for you. When I was an auto mechanic we had a special tool that helped attach springs like this on drum brakes. I was sure wishing that tool was still in my tool chest but it was not. This was the most difficult part for me, getting the cable and spring all in place and stretching the spring without dislodging the seal and having to start all over.I didn't get the seal aligned correctly the first time and had to do it over after putting ever thing back together and washing a load of clothes. I could have avoided that by carefully inspecting the seal before I put everything together. When you put it back together the end of that red or green nylon line that looks like weed eater line goes under the soap/bleach dispenser bezel on the top so you can manually open the door if the wax motor goes bad and it won't unlock.

Water leaking from the rubber front door seal.

  • Customer: William from Sewickley PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I follwoed the detailed instructions provided via the Part Select web page and instructional video. This information was very helpful. I printed the step by step paper instructions and had them available at the washer. They were very easy to understand. By doing this work myself I saved a $100.00 repair service call and installation cost and another $30.00 on parts. This resulted $130.00 ++ savings and 30 minutes of my time. Thanks for the great help and guidance!!

Broken corners of bezel due to vibrations and insufficient thickness of corners that screws attach to washers.

  • Customer: Raymond J. from Clifton VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrew the screws that hold the bezel to the washer. Remove the door that dispenses the soap and bleach. The only problem was removing the steel pins that hold the door in place. Had to cut them out. Reinserting the pins posed no problem. Screwed the bezel back on and job completed. It is worth noting that the new bezel had substantial reinforced corners (thickness) as to prevent vibrations from breaking the corners in the future.

broken drive belt

  • Customer: Truc from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My first time attempted to repair washer and step by step video instruction attached with order confirmation did it for me. Thank you

leaking gasket

  • Customer: Richard from Brownstown IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Follow the suggestions on the rope tied to the side of the washer, then mechanically lever the spring open. Only change I would incorporate is using a block of wood to keep the wash drum from moving over as you pull on the rope to open the spring up. GREAT AND EASY FIX!

washer was leaking water all over the place

  • Customer: DONNA from WALKER WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door &the top took the tightener off the bellow took old one out put new one on and clean all parts and put it back together works like a new one love it.

Mildew, water in bellow and under tub

  • Customer: Ivars from Fairfax VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Set my iPad on the dryer and played the video. Could not have done it without it. Putting spring back on was the hardest, fell off once. Took that long because video connection timed out and had to get another coffee. Part delivery was quick. Found the drain tube out of the bellows was clogged. If it wasn't for the mildew on the bellows could havw fixed the problem if I had known about a drain at the bottom of the bellows.

Dispenser started to rust and deteriorate

  • Customer: Milica from Libertyville IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old dispenser by removing 4 screws, cleaned everything up and installed the new parts. All I needed was a Phillips screw driver. Thank you!

Getting a slight "thunk" or "chirp" when the drum shifts direction

  • Customer: Emil from Bonney Lake WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I bought the new Lip Seal Kit thinking that the sound I was hearing had to do with it sticking inside the drum at the end a rotation in either direction. We had replaced the outer drum a few years back when the bearings went. Believe me, you will know when your bearings are going. It sounds like you are in the same room with a jet engine. I knew this sound was not from the bearings. I had the washer apart in about fifteen minutes...and yes, I am a 125 lb. female...so ladies, it is not an impossible task. I have taken that washer apart enough times before that it is no big deal. Just make a mental note as to how it goes back together....if all else fails one can look at diagrams online. My husband just stood there and said "nice job honey". After I got the old seals out and the parts cleaned up, I turned the bearings to make sure they sounded smooth. A-okay. I installed the new seal and smoothed molycote on the spider shaft; replaced the drum, front panels, etc; tightened the pulley with a torque wrench, belt on, etc. and.....turned on the washer. The sound is still there. Sooooo, I am fairly confident that it comes down to the belt and the motor isolators...mostly the isolators...belt is pretty secure. I am changing those tomorrow. Found someone on youtube with the same problem...only far worse...and a response posted said it probably was due to the isolators and belt. Our seal wasn't too fried, but I guess that it isn't a bad thing that I changed it anyway since it has been a few years and they do fail resulting in bearing damage. Better to catch it now. As for whether my machine is worth fixing at its age, I went shopping while this was going on and I don't trust anything out there to not have a multitude of problems. At least with my current model...that still looks like new btw...I don't have a learning curve to deal with on how to take it apart. And a great big shout out to my father who taught me how to dig in my heels and get my hands greasy!! Update: Replacing the motor isolators did the trick. Put on a new belt too as long as I had the back panel off again. Running like a champ!!

Horrific Clanging Noise from Bearings' Disintegration

  • Customer: Cary from Spokane WA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to Partselect's accurate parts' lists, and installation video, along with others' posted installation trials, gained confidence to attack problem on my own (coupled with repair (or should I say, "replace")men's advise to trash machine). Bearings had basically disintegrated, causing inner tube to be out-of-alignment, and rub against outer tube. Would just like to add to what others' contributed, that I found Plumber's Tub Drain tool to work very well at knocking-out larger front bearing (was perfect fit to ID of bearing). Had to Dremel cut out rear bearing, but quite accessible from rear of machine. Otherwise, alot of cleaning from 13yrs. of useage. Thanks for everyone's assistance!
All Instructions for the MAH4000AWW
151-165 of 205