MAH3000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

First ya have to find the problem that takes time.
Pulled the front off via the four screws, two on the door and two on the opp side. Removed the two top hold down brackets that hold the top on (on the front), popped out the four screws for the detergent and the top hinged up, The hose was right there. Removed the two hose clamps, found the crack ordered if from you guys.(very fast) slapped it in and put a load in.

Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

got instructions off internet from others who did same repair; after taking inner basket out, used drift to remove outer bearing; seal was difficult to remove but used drift to force innner bearing into seal and seal popped out. had help reinstalling inner basket into outer basket.

On-line trouble shooting sites indicated that drain pump was likely culprit. Disconnected pump from hoses and removed and replaced pump. Tub to pump hose had considerable scale in it, so replaced that too. Repair was made easier by removing both the front and back panels of the washer to get best access to hose clamps and pump.

We took the washer completely apart. Replaced the bearings, pulley and
belt. We decided to replace anything that involved the spinning cycle while we had it all apart.
It was well worth the time and effort we put into it. It works like a chime
and is very quiet . Silence is golden ! Hopefully it will work another 18 years.

Removed 4 screws holding dispenser frame. Removed old & installed new frame. Top, hinged lid needed to be slightly bowed so hinge pins could be fit in holes. End of repair.

I removed the pump and found several coins had damaged the prop blade. I ordered a new one and installed it easily. The intake on the new pump was slightly smaller than the original so the original quick clamp produced a leak. A simple manual hose clamp corrected that problem.

I took off the rear panel and removed the hose clamps and electrical terminals, slid pump out of slot in bottom pan of washing machine. It only took minutes, this was part of a major overhaul. I replaced this as a precautionary measure. Great prices and quick service,

Had to replace the whole pump as they did not sell just the propeller. Had to use just the motor and propeller and had to use all the housing from the original pump to bolt in correctly, which fortunately it worked.

Of course I looked at you tube to get the instructions on how best to do the job. It was very helpful. Getting the front bearing out was the major issue. It was so corroded that I could not get it out with a hammer and punch. I had to build a bearing puller which I copied from the you tube video out of a 3" schedule 40 pipe. After that the repair went very smoothly. Putting on the bellows cable and spring assembly took two of us. Also putting the clips that held the inside drum on took two of us. One of us used channel loks to squeeze the two drums together while the other installed the clip. I had trouble identifying the tube seal part number. I phoned for help and the customer service person was very helpful and ordered me the correct part. Thank you

I took the door off, front panel, soap dispenser(to lift the top out of the way)and took off the cross braces on the front of the machine. I pealed the door bellows off and took the drain hose apart; there was much gunk and debris to clean out...maybe something here was clogged? Removed all the snap clips and took the front of the tub off;the tub seal seemed good, but lots of grime/gunk build up.I cleaned all surfaces, put the new tub seal on,and put it all back togther. The hardest part was working the snap clips back on; I worked a few on both sides, top and bottom, and then filled in the rest. The machine has been working fine for a month now, no leaks:)

An earlier post saved us an awful lot of time and effort by mentioning the importance of holding on to the original pins for the hinges because they are not included in the lid replacement provided by the manufacturer.

Great site. Thank you.

I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

after cutting my hand I installed masking tape around the opening on the back of the washer. All went well after that

Repair went just as video on this website indicated. Reinstalling the cable clamp was the hardest part.