Models > MAH3000AWW > Instructions

MAH3000AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH3000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH3000AWW
46-60 of 211
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Would not pump out water

  • Customer: Linda from Sunbury PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I have a new Matag repairman, my husband. He took the front panel off by removing the screws. Then removed the balance on the drum and found the pump. Put the new one on and put everything back and my washer runs better than it has in a long time. Saved us a service call and hourly rate for a service man that couldn't come for 4 days.

mold on door boot, replace door boot

  • Customer: TJ from WARWICK NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
followed the approach on fixya.com. when installing new boot and cable loop, found it easier to remove drum cover from machine (held on with simple clips). Then you can install boot onto the cover and the door frame. Putting everything back in machine and re-attaching the various braces took only a couple of minutes.

I found water on the floor beneath the washer. Further inspection revealed the door boot was torn.

  • Customer: GREGORY from HALIFAX PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws around the front door. Then removed the front face. I removed the bolts holding the top down at front top corners. I removed the detergent dispensor. Next I removed the spring and hold down cable. I then pulled out the old boot. I then, with the help of my son, pulled the new boot around the drum. Then attached the cable and spring. Next pushed the boot into the front retainer. I then put the dispenser in and the front back on. Good as new. It was not hard as long as you have someone to help with pushing the boot around.

water leakage out of front door washer

  • Customer: Monique from West Milford NJ
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I actually ordered the wrong part and will be requesting to return this for something else. This door boot seal kit was not installed.

Bad Seal Allowed Water to Damage Bearings, makes loud noise in spin

  • Customer: William from New Smyrna Beach FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the extensive instructions others had posted on this site about the need to replace the "non-replaceable" bearings. The hard part is getting the old bearings out of the outer tub as they were very corroded. I left the outer tub in the machine and after attempting to beat them out unsuccessfully, I resorted to using a Dremel tool with a small grinding disc on the end to cut the bearings apart, first cutting through the center and removing the ball bearings, then cutting through the outer rim and edge being careful not to cut to deeply, once the bearings were weakened, they came out pretty easily. Installing the new bearings and putting the machine back together was pretty easy. The machine works like new, so for me it was well worth it, thanks to everyone who shared their experiences so I felt comfortable giving it a try!!

Machine had been making a howling noise during rinse cycles for several weeks and then suddenly stopped draining.

  • Customer: Todd from Anchorage AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
On-line trouble shooting sites indicated that drain pump was likely culprit. Disconnected pump from hoses and removed and replaced pump. Tub to pump hose had considerable scale in it, so replaced that too. Repair was made easier by removing both the front and back panels of the washer to get best access to hose clamps and pump.

change stuck in drain pump, damaged the motor

  • Customer: gordon from indianapolis IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
just replaces the pump , the replacement pump was a little different than OE , mounting bracket different but was able to remove housing and bracket from broke pump and put on new pump , all works fine

Mashine leak was quickly diagnosed as rip in boot

  • Customer: Daniel from Avon CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The machine comes quickest appart with a cordless screwgun and a #2 Phillips.

To unhook the wire with spring it is easiest to use a needle nose plier and make a hook from a coat hanger or use a paint can opener.

Pay attention when yo line up the boot with the flange in the back, that the rectagular protrusions line up with the holes in the flange. You may have to stretch the boot a bit and push it all the way in with a dull tool.

Get someone to help you put the wire back on if you want to do it fast and easy. Otherwise hook it on the spring and get the pliers on the loop on the other side and pull it together, torquing the wire back so that it does not make the boot slip fo the flange.

Done

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

One of the drum baffle's boke from it's mount

  • Customer: James from Raton NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.

bad pump

  • Customer: Brandon from Berea OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the rear panel and removed the hose clamps and electrical terminals, slid pump out of slot in bottom pan of washing machine. It only took minutes, this was part of a major overhaul. I replaced this as a precautionary measure. Great prices and quick service,

Nickel stuck in the drain pump and broke all the blades off.

  • Customer: Wes from Pensacola FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Had to replace the whole pump as they did not sell just the propeller. Had to use just the motor and propeller and had to use all the housing from the original pump to bolt in correctly, which fortunately it worked.

broken hinge on dispenser lid

  • Customer: Marta from Arlington VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
An earlier post saved us an awful lot of time and effort by mentioning the importance of holding on to the original pins for the hinges because they are not included in the lid replacement provided by the manufacturer.

Great site. Thank you.

motor not working

  • Customer: CECILE from BROOKLYN NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
followed the diagnostics instruction in the Maytag Owners booklet which pointed to the Motor Control Assembly.
PartSelect was a very good choice for securing the part.

had a rip in the bellow

  • Customer: william from moses lake WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING
All Instructions for the MAH3000AWW
46-60 of 211