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Models > LWD70AW > Instructions

LWD70AW (PLWD70AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LWD70AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LWD70AW
16-30 of 113
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Washer filling very slowly

  • Customer: Bill from Lafayette Hill, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug washer, turn off water supply, disconnect hoses from washer valve(have bucket ready for water remaining in hoses), Remove bottom front panel by unscrewing two hex head screws near floor then pulling panel toward you and down, remove top front panel same as bottom to expose screws securing washer top, lift washer top and prop open or tilt back onto counter(hold washer lid when tilting back). The inlet valve is on the back right. Label and unplug wires, unscrew hose clamp and remove hose, go to back of washer and unscrew plate holding valve and remove. Mount new valve to plate and fasten from back of washer, reconnect hose and wiring, close cover and fasten screws, replace front covers and secure, reconnect water supply hoses(do not over tighten), turn on water and plug in washer.

Squeak and slight burning smell during spin cycle.

  • Customer: Jim from Swanton, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.

To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel:
1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly.
2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts.
3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley.
4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top.
5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water)
6. Unhook belt from tub pulley
7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor
8. Remove motor.
9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor
10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing).
11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver).
12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring.
13. Replace belt.
14. Reassemble in reverse order.
15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.

Would not empty water

  • Customer: James from Houma, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.

Washer leaking water from the bottom.

  • Customer: Donald from Sierra Vista, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel.
Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.
Rolled drive belt off pulleys.
Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.
Tilted motor to get at pump screws.
Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.
Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.
Set motor assembly loosely in place.
Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.
Re-attached tension springs.
Installed motor assembly bolts.
Re-installed front panel.

** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.

replace rubber drain hose adapter

  • Customer: Frank from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

low flow when cold water was used

  • Customer: steve from ramsey, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
it was really easy to gain access to the valve, but the part was just a little different then the original. I had to lengthen one wire to make the new valve work. This did take care of the problem when completed.

Leaking water while washer runs

  • Customer: John from Roswell, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Biggest trick is getting the agitator off. It seems like it is bolted on. I used a piece of braided cotton cord to run under both sides of the agitator and just pulled real hard. It WILL pop off.

Next the old seal will also seem to be attached. The edge is firm but not bolted. A small prybar will help.

Easy repair to do, but it did not fix my problem. I decided to get a new washer rather than go through further disassembly.

Mixing valve quit working - hot side

  • Customer: Steve from Churubusco, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Needed part. Ordered Part from PartSelect Friday afternoon and figured I'd get it the following week. No big deal. Part arrived at my doorstep next morning before noon. UNBELIEVABLE SERVICE. Not requested, but it was there. So I fixed the machine as soon as I got it. I wish every company had this kind of service. I've already told my friends. It just can't get any easier than this.

pump seal leaked; retaining ring sprung

  • Customer: Richard from Soldotna, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.

leaking from pump

  • Customer: James from Montgomery, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

The thin walled plastic drain line got a pin hole leak

  • Customer: WALTER from Holualoa, Hawaii, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
The washer is four years old.
This is the second time I needed to replace this same drain hose on this same washer since I had the machine
There is only my wife ant myself maybe, 2 -3 medium size loads per week - why I would have two drain lines develop the same problem in almost the same location in two years is disconcerting
There must be a design problem with the clear plastic hose - Suggest Maytag go to a thick walled rubber hose
The hole is alway inside the washer on the bottom just after the hose bracket - I suspect that something rubbing causing a small pin hole to develop - when the condition first starts it is very difficult to located -There will be water under the washer
Run the washer and discharge the water - to locate

The replacement must be made through the lower front removable panel - and is easier to do if the pump return hose is also disconnected from the pump

Be very carful with the thin wall replacement hose - very light weight plastic - do not pull across the floor of washer - it could easily get damaged

Your company did a get job getting the part to me - The Fed Ex track system was great
I could tell exactly where the delivery was al all times -

Due to the age of the washer, everything on the bottom end was rusted or corroded together tightly.

  • Customer: Jeff from Garland, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
To remove the drive bell, I drilled numerous holes through the top and split it apart with a screwdriver. The hub was really stuck and due to the unavailability of a 6" puller, I was forced to drill holes in the center section, tap the holes and use a harmonic balancer puller, PB Blaster, and propane torch to remove the hub. After removing the hub, I found small holes rusted through the outer tub. These I repaired with JB WaterWeld quite successfully. The new parts were well made and went on easily in about 45 minutes.

Pump seized and belt burnt

  • Customer: Mark from Maxbass, ND
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.

Water would not shut off

  • Customer: Walter from Hampton, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!

Leaking Water

  • Customer: Mary from San Bernardino, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came back in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)
All Instructions for the LWD70AW
16-30 of 113