LWD70AW (PLWD70AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

You tubed this procedure and it took 20 min.

The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.

After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over, unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.

Replaced the inlet mixing valve. Two screws and two electrical plug ins and you are done.

thought wire between hot and cold valve was to short but after many phone calls found out valve could be ajusted by prying carefully up clips and moving valve closer not in directions

knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.

The hardest part was removing the tub from washer by myself. I simply removed the bolts holding the sides to the bottom of the unit and lifted it straight off. Be careful when you remove the springs from the drum so they don't spring back and puncture the drain line. Thank you RTV gasket maker. Once the drum was free from the base, i tilted the drum back exposing the pump housing. I used a pair of pliers to remove both drain lines then removed the 3 hex screws freeing the pump. I had no problem removing it from the motor shaft, it slipped right off. I put everything back together as easily as it came apart.

I opened the bottom and found the belt had broke in half. i ordered a new belt from Maytag online and found a you tube video that showed exactle how to change it. the only thing i had to do afterwards was tighten the tensioner.eazy pezy!

Removed the plate screws. Found valve, unplugged wires, removed hose and replaced reattaching everything. Replaced plate. Done

Repair went well using posted instructions. My advice is always replace pump as you will damage seal when pulling pump off shaft.

Took off part and replaced it very easy instructions.

Removed old hose, drained the water from the hose. Put new hose on.