Models > LWA50AW > Instructions

LWA50AW (PLWA50AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the LWA50AW
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pulley was worn out and would not turn belt was also worn outand had chunks out of it
Laid washer on its side and had to remove the motor,replaced the pulley and belt replaced the motor and put all parts back together washer spins and runs like it did when it was new.we did not need the screw or nut but did not know when ordering parts
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel Spin Belt
  • Linda from Peggs, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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washing cycles incomplete
First I removed the 5 screws holding the control panel in place then tilted panel forward to gain access to the mounting screws to the timer and the electrical connection and removed and replaced the timer. Worked great the first time.
Parts Used:
Four Cycle Timer - 60Hz 115V
  • Myron from Des Plaines, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Belt and idler pulley bad.
Remove the front of the washer. Remove the pump and motor assembly using the 1/2 inch socket. Remove the pump from the motor and hoses from the pump. Replace the bad idler pulley and place new belt on pulley. Reassemble the pump to the motor and install the assembly back into the washing machine. Reasemble the hoses and put belt on driven pulley for the drum. Reinstall the front cover.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Shaft Idler Pulley Wheel Spin Belt
  • Richard from Holcombe, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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noise while spinning
had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great
Parts Used:
Upper/Lower Bearing
  • Bruce from Harrison, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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"banging" when in spin cycle.
checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from outlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.
Parts Used:
Spin Belt
  • david from brunswick, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Clanging of dryer when rolling
Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.
Parts Used:
Thrust Washer
  • John from Bel Air, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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A small river running out the bottom front.
I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it good....
Parts Used:
Spin Belt Drain Pump
  • Terry from Brentwood, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
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screw loss in Drive Bell
Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.
Parts Used:
Drive Bell and Seal Kit Bell Plug
  • james from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve Kit
  • DAVID from ORLAND PARK, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Leak from seal on pump
This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Jim from Courtland, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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The hose on the washer been leaking and needed to be replaced.
After receiving the new hose we replaced the hose and tested the washer by running a rinse cycle. The new hose fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • Mary Lou from NEW ULM, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Cold water flow very slow.
Removed and replaced mixing valve. Shut off hot & cold water supply to machine. Pull machine electric plug. Access back of machine. Remove water supply to machine. (Pliers) Be sure to keep some paper towels handy to pick up residual water. Remove screw that holds mixing valve mounting plate to machine. Pull plate away from machine. Undo hot and cold elect. connectors to valve. Remove water supply to valve. (Black hose-screwdriver.) Remove screw holding valve to mount plate. (Nut driver.) Install new valve onto mount plate. Reverse process used to remove valve. Test by turning on machine.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve Kit
  • William from NEW DURHAM, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Cracked hose leaking
Hardest thing was moving washing machine away from wall. Two screws on panel. One screw for hose.
Parts Used:
Drain Hose with Rubber Elbow
  • John from BAINBRIDGE IS, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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V-belt replacement
Replacing the spin belt is like the others have said, but I'll add a couple of cautions. Don't try to separate the driven pulley on the water pump from the pump shaft. Instead, separate the water pump from the driven pulley. And, make sure you know the routing of the belt for reassembly, because it has to go between the correct legs that support the water pump. Get it wrong and you'll have to start all over. I pulled the machine away from the wall by about 18" and put a block of wood under the front of the machine to raise only the front to 9" or 10" off the floor which made it easier to do the work. Try and take a digital photo of the belt routing from a couple of angles before beginning. Don't forget to route the belt around the tensioner pulley.
Parts Used:
Spin Belt
  • Daniel from Palatine, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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drum quit turning
Removed front lower panel, removed 4 bolts holding motor, removed water hoses draining water into a pot, unplugged electrical connector on motor, removed motor, removed water pump from motor (torex bit), separated pump from motor. installed belt reassembled washer in reverse order. To my surprise, it worked and was easy.
Parts Used:
Spin Belt
  • Donald from Inlet, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
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All Instructions for the LWA50AW
76 - 90 of 148