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LW8303W2 Maytag - Instructions

Installation Instructions for parts on models starting with LW8303W2

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

Models starting with LW8303W2

All Instructions for models starting with LW8303W2
1-15 of 117
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THE SEAL ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB WAS LEAKING

  • Customer: HOWARD from CORTLAND OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED THE FRONT OF THE WASHER, THEN LIFTED THE TOP UP AND HELD IT UP WITH A PROP. PULLED THE AGITATOR STRAIGHT UP AND STARTED THE DISASEMBLY. USING THE PHOTOS IN THE HUB AND SEAL KIT WAS A BIG HELP. THE LARGE NUT ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT HAD TO BE CUT OFF WITH MY DREMEL TOOL AND THE HUB REMOVED WITH A WHEELER PULLER. ASSEMBLY WAS PRETTY MUCH STRAIGHT FORWARD. PRIMED THE PUMP AND STARTED THE MACHINE FOR THE STATED TIME AND WAS A SUCESS.

Frayed V-belt

  • Customer: John from Milton PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
VERY EASY!!!
SAFETY FIRST-Always unplug the appliance.
Use 8mm socket to remove front panel screws. Loosened up two hose clamps connected to the pump and removed both lines (Hoses contain water, use a towel) which is located underneath the motor. Disconnect motor electrical connector on the left side of the motor. With socket, remove 4 mounting bracket screws that secure the motor and pump assembly. Pull back the tension/idler pulley to loosen belt off the main pulley to the washer drum. Tilt and pull out motor/pump assembly. Underneath the pump, use star-bit to remove the pump from motor assembly to remove the belt. Install new belt on motor pulley (Good time to check for debris or anything restricing free movement of pump) and re-install pump. Install the motor/pump assembly and loosely secure the motor/pump assembly. Place the belt onto the motor pulley and pull back the tensioner/idler pulley to allow slack of belt to be placed on washer drum pulley. Put the belt on the lip of the drum pulley and rotate while pulling back the tensioner/idler pulley until the belt is seated on the groove of the drum pulley. Tighten the motor/pump assembley. Re-attach the 2 hoses and tighten down the clamps. Re-connect the electrical connector to the motor...Don't forget to plug in the washer and secure the front panel...Piece 'O cake, you're done! About 15 minutes to do the job. Much like changing a belt on most vehicles.

Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"

  • Customer: Bryan from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.

Washer wouldn't drain

  • Customer: William from Fayetteville NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I was doing laundry one day, and noticed that the washer did not drain. I drained the water via a shop vac and checked the hoses. There was a baby sock stuck in the hose leading to the pump! I cleared the jam and the washer finally drained again. Once I ran another load, the washer wouldn't drain. I repeated the procedure, and found that the motor was spinning but the pump was not working. I disconnected the machine and proceded to remove the pump. I found that, due to blockage, the motor had reamed out the housing that turns the pump. So, at the advice of my father, who has used this site for other repairs, I entered the model make and number. I was able to view an exploded schematic of the washer in order to correctly identify the part I needed. I found the part, ordered it, and it came to me in about 2 days. I replaced the pump, and my washer has worked great ever since. Thank you PartSelect.com.

leaky seal wreaked main bearing

  • Customer: Brian from Okauchee WI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Bearing is inexpensive but the seal kit is usually needed also

Bearing went out causing lots of noise.

  • Customer: mike from hull IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as this is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

tub leaking water

  • Customer: Raymond from East Sandwich MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the agitator, removed inner tub, exposing the hub drive. Found fusion between hub drive and agitator shaft. Rather than using a wheel puller as instructions recommended I got my masonry hammer and removed the drive hub in pieces. Removed debris from the tub. Installed sealant around lower seal as instructed. Re-assembled inner tub, agitator with new upper seal. Plugged in the washer, turned on the water. No leak. Happy happy.

Machine stopped in spin cycle and smell of burnt plastic.

  • Customer: Tim from Cumming GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed pump/motor assembly. Had a difficult time removing pump from motor. Was not aware that the shaft was not connected some way! After looking over the internet for help....I finally realized that the shaft was siezed in the pump. After much persuasion on my part....it broke loose... I did use some WD-40....but don't know if it....or my prying between the pulley and the pump finally did the trick. Found that the idler pulley was seized. When I replaces both belt and pulley... It worked fine...

Leaking water from outer tub

  • Customer: Michael from La Porte TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the front panel, and taking the (2) screws out securing the top (which lifts uplike the hood of a car) I removed the outer tub plastic ring using (4) screwdivers to lift in various spots to release ,which was pretty easy. They used to make a special tool for $55.00, but you don't need it. What I found when I removed the plastic ring was that the outer tub had (3) holes rusted through at the very top. After sanding them down to bare metal, I J.B. Welded them, let that cure, and then put the new gasket in the plastic outer ring. I backed up the new ring gasket with RTV silicone, snapped it back on, and let that sit for 24 hours. Then I replaced the fill hose from the water mixing valve to the tub ring, which distributes the water into the basket. Easily done in 5 minutes with a regular scewdriver and a pair of pliers. You will need to have an additional 5/8" - 1" hose clamp to replace one of the original snap-style hose clamps, since it gets very rusty over time. Everything works great now. This washer is 13 years old, and I just wanted to buy another 6-12 months when we will buy a new one. (Have you seen the prices on new washers lately!?!?) Took a few hours to repair, but only cost about $40 bucks. Besides, my motto is "If a man can build it, I can take it apart!"

Water was leaking from the bottom of the machine, tub wasn't filling

  • Customer: Charles from Cliff NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
This was on a machine at a friends house I was watching while he was away. I spent more time looking for tools than the actual repair. Once I figured out how to get the front panel off (two bolts at the bottom of the front panel) the problem was easy to diagnose, water was running out of the pump seal. When the parts arrived the repair took about 15 minutes. Shut offpower. remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover over the wiring harness, remove the cover and unplug the wiring harness. Losen up the clamps on the hoses to the pump. Place a towel or drip pan under the pump when you pull the hoses lose. Next remove the four bolts at the base of the motor/pump mount. Slip the belt below the bottom of the tub pulley and remove the motor/pump assembly. Remember the position of the idler/tensioner pulley in relation to the belt. Pull the pump off the shaft by removing the three torx head screws holding the pump to the bracket and replace. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. It is a good idea to replace the belt when replacing the pump, the one in the machine I was repairing was cracked and dry, on its last lap. Good luck.

Did not know the hub nut hex wrench was needed till I got everything torn apart

  • Customer: Robert from Yucaipa CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I did as the directions said that came with the kit. Except everything came off by hand until I got to the hub nut. Instead of waiting for another shipment and buying a tool I would have used once and never touched again I called SEARS and a technician came to my house because I did not have the hub nut hex wrench. He called it a spanner wrench. Once he used the tool to get off the nut I was in business. Until I had to put the nut back on. I ended up wrapping a towel around the end of a 12" adjustable crescent wrenc and litle by little smacked it with a hammer until the nut looked like it was all the way down. Just to put the nut back on my way took almost an hour alone. The directions said that a puller was needed to get off the adjutator shaft (unsure of correct name), but it came off with a little wiggleing. Once I put the new one on it would not budge off so a small puller would have been needed to remove it if I needed to again. And puting it back on was a chore in it self. I ended up using a hammer and 6" 1/2" drive extension with a 20 something MM socket on the end to force it down all the way. And the shat that the large seal goes over also requires a tool which is also not mentioned until you read the directions. I was able to twist and force on the new one with a little bit of included grease around the meeting surface. For the most part the directions were correct, but left out a bunch of nice to know things that the average person who is not mechnically inclined may not have figured out. Overall the whole procedd was pretty easy once all the tools were available. Suggestions I would make are to say in the advertisement of the seal kit that the Hub nut hex wrech (spanner wrench) and seal tool will be needed inorder to complete the removal and/ or installation. Which are sold seprately.

Motor Hum when trying to start the washer

  • Customer: Kurt from Palm Beach Gardens FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the motor.
Opened the front panel to gain access to the motor. Removed the motor assembly by removing the four steel screws holding the assembly in place. Removed the motor from the assembly (very easy) put the new motor in place.
ZZZZooom-ZZZZoom off and running. I would like to add I was very pleased with the service received from Partsselect.com. I got the part 20% cheaper than ANYWHERE else and got it delivered the next day for no additional charge. The shipping charge was also very resonable. GOOD JOB GUYS!!!

Timer knob wouldn"t turn timer

  • Customer: Gary from Haverhill NH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the six screws that held the control panel to the washing machine and then tried to unscrew the timer knob counter-clockwise to remove it,but it turned freely and wouldn"t unscrew as it should because it was broken inside. I laid the control panel down and used a hammer and a punch and with a few good taps on the metal shaft that was on the inside of the timer (hitting back towards the timer knob) it let go and then the knob turned off easily. I then slid the timer knob plate off the shaft. I removed the two 1/4" nut screws from the timer unit with a nut driver. Next I unplugged the electrical plug by lifting the tab on the top and pulled the connection apart. I put the new timer in with the two nut screwsand plugged in the electrical connection. I then slid on the timer knob plate and screwed the knob on. The control panel was put back on with the six screws and the machine worked perfect. Something that you must not forget......unplug all appliances before working on them.

Washer began to leak about a pint of water per load. Water was stained black by residual belt abd brake dust the water was picking up as it dripped throught the machine.

  • Customer: Sheldon from North Yarmouth ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions that came with the hub and seal kit, which were pretty well written but not terribly detailed. Once I got into the job though, I felt confident that the instructions told me all of the important information--the rest was common sense. If you're reasonably handy you can pull this off.

The instructions call for some specialty tools, which I was able to do without by using the following:

• Drive Bell:
The old drive bell slid right off without a puller--I think I got lucky on this one.

To install the new drive bell I used a long 1/4-20 bolt, nut and fender washers. I spun a nut way up the bolt then slid the fender washers on. I threaded all of this down into the transmission output shaft until it bottomed out. Then I turned the nut down to push the washers and drive bell down until it hit bottom. Then I backed out out the bolt and washers and installed the shoulder screw.

• Hub:
I used a generic wheel-puller I already had to get this off and it came off with little effort. I put the old shoulder screw back into the top of the shaft for the point of the puller to sit on so it wouldn't mess up the transmission output shaft or threads (obvious, I know but a bad thing to overlook).

Drive Bell Seal:
• This calls for seal tool #293P4. I'm sure the seal can be installed by hand but it happened that the two extension tubes from my Shop-Vac were exactly the right diameters to seat the bottom and top parts of the seal.

• Lint filter:
The instructions just say "remove lint filter" but it was pretty stuck on and seems pretty fragile so I took it easy. I used a small scrap of 1/8-inch plywood to slide under the edge until it popped off.

The instructions say not to use the four rubber washers on the bolts that attach the inner tub to the hub if the machine has a stainless tub. Mine has a stainless tub and the original bolts had rubber washers on them so I used the new washers when i reinstalled the inner tub.

I found the 3M-800 Scotch Seal industrial sealant at a local appliance pats distributor. I researched it and it seemed like a specific enough product that it wasn't worth risking the whole job to use something I already had like Lexel. I learned that the reason it doesn't come with the kit is that it requires Haz-Mat handling, which would probably double the cost of the parts kit. One set of instructions I read from Maytag said that "the customer can use the machine after 15 minutes". But the sealant tube says it fully cures in 1 - 3 days. So I squirted out a ribbon on a piece of paper when I did the job so I could monitor the drying time and split the difference, allowing it to dry overnight. Seems as though that's long enough.

I did the job step-by-step and it seems to have worked. The first load is running right now and so far it's dry as a bone.

One thing I noticed is that some of the parts seem to have been updated over the original ones to improve performance. The drive bell and associated seal have a more sophisticated mating relationship that seems as though it will provide a better seal than the original.

Good luck

motor would't work

  • Customer: CARLOS from MIAMI FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 4 screws that hold the motor in place.pull the motor out and disconnected the wires ,remove the belt from the pulley, when motor was out the work was very easy 3 more bolts that hold another element in place and the rest was piece of cake ...done thanks to parts select for send me the right part at first time i recomended and i received my motor in just 3 days.congratulation
All Instructions for models starting with LW8303W2
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