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LW3603L
LW3603L (P1122402L) Amana Washer - Overview
Sections of the LW3603L
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Complete Hub and Seal Kit
PartSelect #: PS2174602
Manufacturer #: R9900552
This kit comes with hub, seal head, gasket, seal shroud, seal seat, screw, spline insert, drive bell and seal.
No Longer Available
Main Tub Bearing Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11742242
Manufacturer #: WP40004201P
This triangular main tub bearing assembly is five inches long. It is made of metal.
$75.63
In Stock
Drive Bell and Seal Kit
PartSelect #: PS2174335
Manufacturer #: R9900189
This washing machine drive bell and seal kit comes with a seal, a plug, a shoulder screw, a drive bell, and some grease.
No Longer Available
Flex Vane Agitator
PartSelect #: PS2040684
Manufacturer #: 40000501W
This white agitator is used for belt driven washing machines.
No Longer Available
Fabric Softener Kit
PartSelect #: PS2040720
Manufacturer #: 40002101W
This part is on top of the agitator and automatically dispenses the liquid fabric softener at the right time during the wash cycle.
No Longer Available
Self Cleaning Lint Filter DISCONTINUED
PartSelect #: PS2040450
Manufacturer #: 39371
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for LW3603L
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Common Symptoms of the LW3603L
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The Seal On The Bottom Of The Tub Was Leaking
Removed the front of the washer, then lifted the top up and held it up with a prop. Pulled the agitator straight up and started the disasembly. Using the photos in the hub and seal kit was a big help. The large nut on the output shaft had to be cut off with my dremel tool and the hub removed with a wheeler puller. Assembly was pretty
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much straight forward. Primed the pump and started the machine for the stated time and was a sucess.
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Parts Used:
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HOWARD from CORTLAND, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Bearing went out causing lots of noise.
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as t
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his is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.
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Parts Used:
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mike from hull, IA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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The washer tub seal leaked
After removing the agitator and drive bell by pulling on them HARD, I found that the lock nut and hub were corroded in place. I used grinding wheels to remove them which took over an hour. The internal and external threads needed to be cleaned up with tap and die and the splines had to be filed in order to get the new hub on the shaft. I
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did not use antiseize compound. The tub seal went on easily and the lock nut was guestimate torqued using a wrench made for water heater elements. The drive bell seal was very stubborn. It is normally pressed on with a special tool, but I had scrap pipe sections that fit the inner and outer press-points and used a large hammer to drive it into place. The washer does not leak any more. Total time was around four hours.
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Parts Used:
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Gerald from Seminole, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Wrench set
17 of 19 people
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