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LW2603 (P1110604W) Amana Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the LW2603
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Brake pads were worn out
Unplug the washer
Took off the front with nut driver to two fasteners at the bottom.
Took off two tub springs using channel lock pliers.
Tipped the tub back for more hand room.
Took brake bolts off with box end wrench.
Put Screw driver above brake clamps and pried down to make the old brake pads drop down below the seats and then take brakes off. You might have to use a screw driver to expand the brake clamps so they will release the brake. (brake clamps look like a pulley but the edges will spread some bit.)
Twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps and pushed new brake in as far as would go while beside (to the left or right of) the brake seat.
Pried brake clamps down and rotated brake around until it is lined up with the brake seat. Then pried pads up into the seat.
Re-twisted large screw driver between the brake clamps to separate them and pulled the brake pad back to within 1/8th to 1/16th inch of the back. This lined up the bolt hole.
Inserted the bolt with rubber grommett into the brake pad hole and twisted it counter clockwise and tightened with wrench. (If the bolt would not thread, then you have to adjust the brake pad forward or backward until the holes line up.) Tighten the bolt until it is firmly tight.

There are three brakes. Each is installed the same way. The one in back required a little cross legged contortion for me to reach around both sides of the motor and two front brake pad mounts. The key is lining up the bolt hole in the brake pad with the mount. I pretty well had it figured out after the second pad install. Time for me.. 4 hours. Cost, leg cramps, sore muscles from awkward positions, and the joy of not having to buy a new washer.

Return the springs to the tub on the front. Close front panel and return the two fasteners with the nut drivers.

How did I know I needed the brakes? When in agitation mode the tub spun the opposite direction of the spin cycle. When the agitator turned the opposite direction, the water inside went into a very strong vortex and sometimes sloshed out the top or around the top edges When there were a lot of clothes and a high fill level in the tub. We also had trouble with straps winding around the agitator. The tub spun so quickly that the water without agitation was driven to the top outer edges of the tub by centrifugal force.
Parts Used:
Brake Pad Kit
  • Stephen from Kittanning, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Water leaking when water level is set above medium. Wash tub spinning when during agitation cycle.
Three brake pads are located just above the drive pulley and space symmetrically around the brake wheel. Remove the one screw per brake, slide brake out of brake wheel and replace with new brake. Apply silicone grease to new brakes before installing. Tools: 5/16 boxed end wrench.
Parts Used:
Brake Pad Kit
  • Martin from Grayslake, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
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shook violently in rinse mode... worse w light loads
Remove two sheet metal screws at bottom front. Tip up and remove front panel. Tip up top panel. Hold it up to allow access to rear of drum. Use soft piece of wire to loop around top of spring. Pull 4 springs up and off drum. Rotate the springs to release them from the base plate. Starting at the rear of the drum slip new spring end into washer base. Slip wire loop on the top of the new spring. Pull and stretch new spring onto drum. Repeat 3 more times. Replace front cover....you're done!
Parts Used:
Balancing Leg Spring
  • dennis from flushing, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Agitator not working. Found worn brake pads which allowed tub to turn without agitating
After removing the front panel I was able to reach the bolts holding the brake pads in place. Without the above mentioned ratcheting end wrench it would have been very difficult to start the bolts while replacing them. I would probably consider removing the motor if I had to do this again. It would give a lot better access. no real difficulty other than hard to reach.
Parts Used:
Brake Pad Kit
  • Gary from Anchorage, AK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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noise while spinning
had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great
Parts Used:
Upper/Lower Bearing
  • Bruce from Harrison, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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All Instructions for the LW2603
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