LSD2615HEW Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

well, my problem was the dual water valve. I check the two water valve connectors, one was good ( yellow ) and the other connector (brown) was bad. I tested them both with an ohms meter, of course all power was off. I think when ever there's a problem with not receiving ICE this should be done before replacing the ice-maker for there's a lot of things going on in this area. The Brown Connector releases the water into the ice-tray (that tested Bad with a reading of 257 from ohms meter,and the yellow had a sound from ohms for full contact a good reading. The brown valve was bad.

First My Frig side of the double door unit wasn't closing on its own. Kids don't look, so they walk away...next thing you know the frig warms up and the freezer starts to frost up from running so long...Now it won't shut off.... I checked the hinge and sure enough it was wore down. Now mind you, I ordered a hinge kit first without checking to see what type I needed...don't do that...Less than 15 mins you can take the door off and see which one you need.As soon as I saw which type of hinge set I needed I went and ordered it...returned the other one. It came pretty quick.... 15 mins had that sucker changed and working... But... the door still wouldn't close on its own... Common sense told me the heat from the frosted freezer caused the door and frig walls to swell... Yes I said the heat... When the component in the freezer frosts up it does not keep the frig cool, nor will the freezer stay kool... the frost prevents the cool air from moving around...thus "HEAT".... It took a full 24 hrs for my frig n freezer to get back to normal... and now the door closes just fine... MIND YOU! I had to take the covers off the freezer unit inside, then take a steamer and melt all that frost off of every inch including down the drain... That took me a good 5-6 hours... and what a mess.... but it was worth my time.... because I don't have to replace my second hand Jenn-Air which I could never afford to buy brand new.... Whew....what we have to do to keep things going... $11 bucks worth of parts.... "Super Mom" :o)

Super simplet to fix. Popped out broken light switch and unplugged it and replaced with new switch. Received the part one day after ordering it from your company--AWESOME SERVICE AND TURNAROUND TIME!!! Saved at least $100 plus in repair costs/trip charge for something we were able to do. Great experience and would order from your company again. Thank you!

We had an Appliance Repair service come to fix, and they replaced the ice maker and the water valve, but ice maker was still not performing properly. We use RO water to fill the ice maker and because the water was also going through the charcoal cartridge, there wasn't enough water pressure to completely fill the tray. Plus charcoal filter was probably clogged. The original Blue Bypass Cap was nowhere to be found and I even called Kitchenaid to get one. They were of no help. But found your site, and found the part I needed. And best of all, ice maker is not jamming and is now making real ice cubes, not hollow, thin ones. And the water dispenser is now working too, so am very happy that such a small thing, fixed the big problem. Who knows, a clogged charcoal filter may have been the whole problem from the start.

Water was leaking from the water inlet valve.Valve distributes water to the ice maker and water dispenser.Removed the old valve by disconnecting the water lines and electrical fittings.Removed the panel from which it was mounted to.Only four or five screws held the panel on.Matched up the part with the photo and the part number.make sure you shut your water supply to the fridge prior to removing and also you can keep the fridge running while you are doing this and while waiting for the new water valve.Very easy repair with basic tools.Pex water lines can be removed and installed without tools.Just press the collar on the water fitting down and pull the water line out.when reinstalling lines into the new valve,push line all the way in and the pull out to set the collar.

The unit has two fans on it. One is located in the back and the other is locate inside the freezer section behind the panel. Remove the four bolts holding the door to the sliding rack. Remove the ice machine. Remove the back panel. Noticed that the fan was covered in ice thus shorting the fan motor. Tested for voltage to the fan was good. Replaced evaporator fan motor and unit works perfectly

I unscrewed the old filter and screwed the new filter in the way the instructions said. I have done this before with no problems. Easy fix.

Screwed new filter in

Watching the video made this dead easy. If I had a newer refrigerator, I suspect it would have taken 10 minutes. Since I have an older 'fridge, I ran into two issues not in the PartSelect video. First - there were no "clips" to slip the icemaker into/out of, the unit was screwed directly into the freezer wall. Kinda hard to see the screws, especially the one in front, but not a big problem. Second - there is a wire-harness clip at the back side of the icemaker, that hooks onto the ledge of the back connector, just under the screw. That clip had slipped, and until I figured that out and reseated it, it made getting to the rear screw wit the nutdriver a serious pain. Other than those two issues, though, the job was exactly as easy as the video makes it look!

Cubes in bin were freezing together due to water leaking from the ice maker assembly. Replacement went easy with bin rails removed.

1. removed bottom screw. 2. pinched sides of rear connection to disconnected ice maker (noted red wire on top in cabinet rear). 3. bump out old unit taping to release tab on bottom. 4. disconnect wire from icemaker and remove wire holder with philips screwdriver.ew ice maker. 4. reattach harness to new ice make and replace clip. 6 reattach l bracket to bottom of ice maker. 7. detach shut off wire from old ice maker and replace on the new maker. 8. place back into position in freezer compartment. 9. reattach water delivery tube 10. connect wire to rear of cabinet. If motor drive still good on old maker scavenge before throwing away bad parts.

empty frezzer take door off unplug wires going to ice maker unscrew/bolt icemaker replace door take motor cover off ice maker remove screws on motor replace ice cup and put every thing back together

I unplugged the refrigerator. Then removed the ice tray. Then removed the screw holding the ice maker secure. I had a little difficulty lifting the ice maker off the clips on the side of the refrigerator but was successful. Then unplugged the wire harness from the back of the refrigerator an lifted the unit out. Removed the wiring harness from the old unit and installed it on the new one. Then positioned the new unit so I could plug the harness in the refrigerator and lined up the clips to attach it on the side of the refrigerator, being careful to line up the water distribution tube. Replaced the screw to secure the ice maker and plugged the refrigerator back in and it is working very well. I am very hsappy with the repair

Video was helpful and reading the other responses online was a big help also. Followed all of those instructions. Most difficult part was disconnecting the electrical plug to the ice maker. Need a screwdrive or other pointed object to depress plastic tab. Other than that, things went smoothly. HOWEVER, after turning water back on and plugging in fridge, I thought everthing was perfect...no leaks initially. BUT, came back a few hours later to find no ice cubes in the holding tray, "iceburg" formations and ice dams built up again thoughout the freezer. Water was leaking continuously from the ice maker. Upon further analysis, it appears the electronic mechanism keeps telling the fridge to send water to the ice maker...or, it is sending too much before shutting the water off. The tray is overflowing and that seems to be the problem. I'm back to square one, but with a new ice maker.

Quickly after video