Models > LNC8766A71 > Instructions

LNC8766A71 Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LNC8766A71 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LNC8766A71
61-75 of 821
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gas dryer would fire, but shut down before getting warm enough to dry clothes

  • Customer: Glenn from Ossian IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

Originally Noisey While Running

  • Customer: Gary from Park Hills MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged electric, turned off gas valve. Opened top using a putty knife, laid it gently back against the wall for support. Removed 2 screws holding front on-leaned front out about 3-4 inches- while holding front with my knees I disconnected door switch wires.-then removed front panel. Followed instructions on maintenance sheet glued on underside of dryer top (Lucky it was there). Took tension off drive belt. Removed belt and drum following instructions on lid sheet. Removed old slides (worn out) Installed new pads & slides. Vacuumed out all lint/dust/dirt I could reach, Cheked rear drum rollers. Reinstalled everything that I had removed. It took extra time to do everything because dryer was in tight space, little working space. Turned gas on, plugged in electric cord. Worked great now.

dryer drum belt broke

  • Customer: Paul from Athens TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

Dryer declined to work- at all

  • Customer: William from Beacon NY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Web search to determine probable cause then search to find parts. Parts Select came through with the parts and quickly. Opened the top of the dryer (after disconnect from power-hate the smell of burning flesh) and found the parts that had up and died. Removed two screws for first part then one more and a lot of cursing to remove the other. Reassembled in reverse order, more cursing the tight space. Dryer back in service, wife happy. Only minor blood loss from sharp parts of machine. Success!

Mother-in-law's dryer quit heating. Her's was LPG, Replacment was NG

  • Customer: ROBERT from HOUSTON TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First, I inserted a screwdriver between the front panel and the top and popped the top loose. Next, there is a screw close to the top of the front panel on each side. Remove these. Next I unplugged the light switch from the front panel and removed the panel. Next, unscrew the gas line from the burner assy. and remove the screw holding the burner assy. to the frame. CAREFULLY, remove the burner assy. taking care not to break the ceramic igniter. Remove the assembly and unscrew the brass screw on the right side of the burner. Replace the screw with the new assembly furnished with the conversion kit. Remove the tube that directs the gas to the ducting. Unscrew the orifice fitting and replace with the new fittings furnished with the kit. Reinstall the tube and CAREFULLY return the burner assembly to the dryer. Screw the assy to the frame and re-connect the gas line. Replace the front panel, 2 screws, and snap the top back down onto the front panel, taking care to align the two guide pins. Connect the gas line to the dryer and install the ducting. Plug it in and test for leaks.

sometimes it would heat, and other times it did not.

  • Customer: Joseph from Painesville Twp. OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unplug dryer, lift top, remove 2 screws holding front, lift & swing front to right, use nutdriver to remove two screws holding igniter and other piece attached with same screws, a couple wiggles and out, unplugged igniter, plug in new, reposition new igniter and other piece, replace screws, repositioned front panel, replaced front panel screws, dropped top back in place, plugged in and wha-la. Heat.
Original Igniter had a hairline crack in it causing it to intermittantly fire. Thanks PartSelect, right part and speedy delivery.

NO HEAT AFTER 10 MINUTES

  • Customer: lawrence from GROTON VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
SHUT OFF GAS REMOVED GAS VALVE.REMOVED THE COIL RETAINER AND INSTALLED THE NEW COILS.REINSTALLED VALVE AND CHECKED.FOUND DRYER WORKED FINE.

extremely noisy operation

  • Customer: Paul from Daly City CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged unit, opened lid, removed 2 screws & door switch from front panel, removed front panel & drum.
Removed clips & washers from rear roller shafts, removed 2 screws (each) attaching rear roller shafts to rear of unit. Replaced rear roller shafts, thrust washers, rollers & clips. Removed clip from belt tensioner idler arm, replaced idler pulley wheel & clip.
pulled tensioner toward motor side and locked in place with broomstick. Placed new belt over drum & installed drum/belt into unit, engaging rear drum lip over new rear drum support rollers. Guided belt
over motor shaft and slowly released broomstick to
tension belt. Turned drum by hand to ckeck belt tracking. Reinstalled front panel & door switch, installed 2 screws holding front panel to case. Closed lid. Plugged unit in & tested for proper operation-OK.

loud rattling and grinding noise when drum is turning

  • Customer: Steve from Green Bay WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Always begin repairs by unplugging the power cord from the power outlet! First, push in the 2 taps under the dryer top to lift it up and secure it at a 90 degree angle. Remove the door light switch from the retaining clip and let it hang to the outside of the dryer. After removing the 2 scews inside the top front, remove the front dryer cover. Next, remove the screws holding the blower cover and set it aside. Using a pair of plyers, remove the hose clip from the blower axle. Use a c-clip tool to remove the c-clip and pull out the blower wheel. Use a vacuum attachment hose to remove lint and other dirt from the wheel housing and dryer. Apply a light dish soap to the motor axle and slide on the new blower wheel. Replace the blower housing cover, front dryer cover, light switch, and close the dryer top, making sure to allign the pins and holes near the lid clips that secure the dryer top. Plug in the dryer power cord and you are set to go! Retire to your favorite lounge chair, grab the remote, and tell your wife that it is OK to "test" the dryer! However, do not attempt the last step until AFTER you have cleaned up all the mess you made while making the repair!

dryer not heating

  • Customer: john from saint charles MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
i removed the top by gently prying between the top and cabinet after first unplugging the cord. . 1/4" nut driver used to remove the thermal switch from the bracket . thermal fuse was connected with two white wires and immediately below the thermal switch. remove the heating element for access to the thermal fuse. replace parts and reassemble.

broken pulley and belt

  • Customer: Raul from cypress CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Before anything else, I would like to thank your company for a quick response and fast delivery of the parts that I ordered. Ordering parts from your company saved me a lot of money. The repair took me about 15 min. First I removed the two screws that hold the front cover and then I pulled out the drum and replaced the broken pulley, then I put back the drum and the belt in place and then I put the cover and screwed back in and now I'm back washing and drying pile of clothes.

Close would not get dry. Dryer started normal. Timer would not time out.

  • Customer: Roger from Westminster SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

Lint screen assembly holder had broken

  • Customer: George from Vernon CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped

Dryer Spinsbut does not Dry!!!!

  • Customer: Felix from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Quick fix it works
remove the two screws holding the top from the back. Pull out the top section with the knobs
You should now be able to see the high limit fuse and the heating element.
Remove the two screws holding the fuse to the dryer. Replace the fuse and test before covering.
Also clean up the heating element with a soft brush or blower.

Klunking noise and poor drying

  • Customer: Harry from Atco NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The top was hard to figure out but I found that it pops off at the front with a flat screw driver. Be careful not to scratch the paint. I found that a rear drum roller was bad and the drum seals were deteriorated. I ordered a new belt, roller kit, front, and rear seals. This way I hoped I will not have to take it apart again. The seal were the hardest parts to replace. Make sure you look and remember how they were on before removing them. The directions were not to clear on the seals. The rest were good. It is much better to do it once. Take a picture if possible, it might come in handy as I took mine apart a week or so before the parts came in. I also cleaned out all of the accumulated lint buildup with a shop-vac, including the vent pipe, heater area, and front door. When I was done with this it worked like brand new.
All Instructions for the LNC8766A71
61-75 of 821