LNC6766B71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Remove the access panel at the back of the machine. Locate the Motor Pivot Spring. It is about the same diameter as a coat hanger and is attached to the motor and the motor base. I was able to remove the old spring and install the new spring with my fingers. When removing the old spring, remove the motor end first, then the motor base end. When installing the new spring, attach the motor base end first, then the motor end.

Removed laundry softener dispenser, removed bolt with socket wrench and long extension, pulled off old assembly piece, installed new assembly and replaced bolt. It took longer to order the part than to replace it!

Tipped machine 45-degrees to reveal belt on bottom of machine. Used screwdriver to remove old belt which looked fine. Installed new belt (which arrived from PartSelect within 2-days) but it felt loose. Tried machine anyway and it works just fine. Easiest repair ever. Thanks, PartSelect!

Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.

Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.

I took out all the tubs and the apparatus holding the gear and thrust bearing assembly. I used a homemade tool (long zipties) to pull the springs off and to put them back on. After that I just replaced the thrust bearing with the new kit and put everything back together.

By sliding the machine out away from the wall I tipped it back so that it set against the wall on an angle enough for me to work on the bottom. I removed the belt and drive pully. The brake stator can be removed from the bottom if drum is centered. The brake is under pressure from a big spring in there that applies the brake. Replacing three of its mounting screws with longer ones (10-24 x 2) allows you to let pressure off of the brake spring slowly. Replaced brake rotor and stator and compressed spring with long screws as in removal. Replaced all original screws to hold in place. Installed pulley and belt. Works like brand new, all for about $30. I bought the snubber also but did not realize that this is not part of the brake. I little confusing on the parts drawing.

I tipped the washing machine back to allow me access to the bottom of the washing machine to remove the belt from the water pump. After removing the belt, I righted the machine, unscrewed the three screws holding the rear access panel on. I used pliers to remove the clamps from the inlet and outlet hoses then removed the hoses. I removed three screws holding the water pump on to the bottom panel of the washing machine. I removed the pump and replaced it with the new pump. I then reinstalled the screws, the hoses, the clamps, the access panel, and the belt. I plugged the washer back in and - viola! It works again.

I took pictures at different steps in case I forgot how it was assembled. Unplugged the power, turned off the water hoses, unplugged the hoses, pulled the washer out, took of the access panel in the lower left hand corner, took of two tec screws that hold the water valve in place, removed the four wires that were attached to the water valve, removed the water hose attached to the water valve, reattached everything to the new water valve. The only difficulty is the access panel is a bit small

The problem was not in the switch but in the plastic hose from the tub to the switch. The hose was cracked and air/water leaked which therefore didn't activate the switch. I removed the top back cover to access the switch and released the hood of the machine, like a car, using a thin scaper to depress the spring loaded retaining clips. The hose was cracked at the tub just above the retainig clip. I bought new hosing at a local hardware store and replaced the switch to omit both of them as a future problem. Sell the tube with the switch as a package deal? Damage to tube may occur from violent, out of balance, spinning tub on spin cycle.